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Question about CV Boots

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Old Oct 3, 2003 | 12:14 AM
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Question about CV Boots

How much would I expect to pay to replace my CV boots both left and right....or how hard is it to replace it yourself? And what tools and what is needed to replace it, other than of course the boots itself.
Old Oct 3, 2003 | 12:27 AM
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It the long run its cheaper to replace the whole axles. I recently replaced both axles, but first tried to replace the outer CV boots. It was a lost cause. I spent more time trying to disassemble the axles than it took to do the whole job. In the end I never got the axle apart. The axles themselves are about $70 ($130 without the core) and the boots are about $15. It would cost the same or more to replace a boot then just the whole axle (well the mech. I asked said that). So check these out for more info:

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/401

http://www.raxles.com/index1.htm

Oh and the tools could easily add up to much denero, the 36 mm impact socket was $30 alone.
Old Oct 3, 2003 | 10:03 AM
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You can get a 36mm (not impact) socket at Sears for about $7.00
Old Oct 3, 2003 | 10:14 AM
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Anyone know where I can get a cheap OEM outer constant velocity joint (CV) joint for my 97 max?? I am in need badly.
Thanx
Old Oct 3, 2003 | 10:18 AM
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You can rent the 36mm socket for free from AutoZone.

IIRC boot kits from Nissan are about $20 and have everything you need. Boot, clamps, clips and grease.

Personally, I'd rather re-boot my OEM axles before the boot tore than replace the axle. If I ever rip a boot, then I'd look to rebuild the axle or replace it.
Old Oct 3, 2003 | 10:32 AM
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I recently did my outer boot and it was pretty easy. The CV boot kit from autozone was 8.99 and had everthing I needed. Then the 36mm socket, a 17mm, and a 19mm sockets where 14 bucks all together. The hardest thing for me was to remove the 36mm nut. So I put one of my stock wheels on and remove the center cap, then I drove my car to the near shop and ask them if they could break that thing lose for me with their impact gun. I spent about 2.5 hours doing this and I am very happy with the results. Also since I did the outer boot only I didn't had to remove the whole shaft out of the car. I did remove the strut/sprint Assembly so I could have some space to work on it.
Old Oct 3, 2003 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Pappa Grande
You can get a 36mm (not impact) socket at Sears for about $7.00
I could not find one in 1/2 drive. All they had was 32mm or 34mm, 12 point deep, and if i found a 36mm nonimpact i would have broken it since it was 12 pioint. Curse Napa and their $30 pieces of black metal. My cousin got his 1 1/4" for his 200sx for like $7, I just got sick of looking for the cheap sockets.

It seems like you guys had no problem getting your axles apart. What the he11 am i doing wrong? The Haynes manual says use a brass punch and a bench vice, I have neither. I wish i had a slide hammer, b/c that would have worked.
Old Oct 3, 2003 | 12:47 PM
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Yup, Sears had the 36mm in 1/2 inch.

As for removing the hub from the axle, the best way to do it (it is a pain) is to remove the strut from the hub and then take a rubber mallet at tap the axle out. It took a while but it wasn't that bad.
I got completly stuck when I tried to remove the axle from the transmission. I just couldn't get it to budge.

As for removing the 36mm nut. All I did was use a breaker bar and stand on the thing and it came off.
Old Oct 5, 2003 | 07:33 AM
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I removed the axle from the tranmission by gently prying on it with a tie rod seperator... but imagine you could to the same with a large screwdriver... just pry in different places btwn the tranny housing and the large metal part of the axle... dont pry arount the seal.

I just replaced a boot last night... PITA but its done and really wasnt that hard in retrospect. Definately need the slide hammer (in my case any way). And the slide hammer does not want to stay locked on the nut, I solved that with a hose clamp and duck tape
Old Oct 6, 2003 | 05:43 PM
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If you want, you can get the cheap cv boots from auto zone. They are split and held together by screws. They come with the lube also. Just a suggestion though. Or if you want it done right, do want everyone else is saying and get the whole job done, axles and all.
Old Oct 6, 2003 | 06:59 PM
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Got mine done for $235
Old Oct 6, 2003 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxima10to1
I could not find one in 1/2 drive. All they had was 32mm or 34mm, 12 point deep, and if i found a 36mm nonimpact i would have broken it since it was 12 pioint.

I would be seriously impressed if you could break a Craftsman socket by hand. Break a 1/2 rachet?... yes, i have done it many a time. But to spilt a socket down the side takes a hell of a lot of torque.

Adam
Old Oct 6, 2003 | 08:02 PM
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i just learned that my front right CV boot was ripped, and im wondering how long you can/should go with a ripped boot. thanks.
Old Oct 7, 2003 | 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 96stillen_max
i just learned that my front right CV boot was ripped, and im wondering how long you can/should go with a ripped boot. thanks.

Not long. Schedule to have it serviced in the next few days, if you are going to only have the cv boot replaced. Previous posts advocate changing the whole shaft , which makes sence to me too. If you plan to change the whole shaft, then it does not matter as much how further you can ride the car, I guess.
Old Oct 7, 2003 | 07:01 AM
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FYI

A lot of these tools can be had at your local flee Market.
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