how much HP for this setup.
10-19-2003, 10:39 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by indigomax
i think so pk.....the track times are very different talking about temperature, altitude, humidity, etc...but 17? is weird....the cavalier and stratus got that times.
gee, thanks for comparing me to a cavalier....now i'm even more depressed
10-19-2003, 10:41 PM
#42
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yea well, heavy 17s will hurt you. its unsprung inertia. each pound u add is 8 pounds of intertia, and remember, 4 rims. also if you got wider rims, more rubber for the width. that could hurt. also high altitude and temps hurt
10-19-2003, 10:42 PM
#43
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jejejeje dont worry i just post a example...i saw people with the same mod than me making almost 14´s and the same with 16´s. If you go to Mexico, etc the times are completly different, you have to add almost 1 second in 1/4 mile just for altitude and humidity.
of course a turbo would help your time
10-20-2003, 04:53 AM
#47
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Originally Posted by indigomax
speedemn :
the tranny cooler will help for long life for all tranny parts, as you know the high temp will kill it, so the best way to take care is making the temp goes low, the radiator is not enough for the tranny to keep good temp, so you can add a 404 tranny cooler for pepgirls $59 and your tranny will working fine and low temp on 1/4 miles, racing, etc.
the tranny cooler will help for long life for all tranny parts, as you know the high temp will kill it, so the best way to take care is making the temp goes low, the radiator is not enough for the tranny to keep good temp, so you can add a 404 tranny cooler for pepgirls $59 and your tranny will working fine and low temp on 1/4 miles, racing, etc.
I could have sworn that Stillen had a 5-spd tranny cooler but I can't seem to find it now.
10-20-2003, 04:54 AM
#48
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Originally Posted by -=PK=-Maxima
gee, thanks for comparing me to a cavalier....now i'm even more depressed
10-20-2003, 11:57 PM
#52
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Originally Posted by -=PK=-Maxima
hahaha, i was kidding about the turbo thing. I have 18' Zenetti Mystic sliver rims. the weather and humidity was great. and i went to LACR Raceway in Palmdale CA
10-21-2003, 12:12 AM
#54
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30 for all 4 rims, times 8 for inertia... rotating unsprung mass definately doesnt want to spin. and its not like adding a constant 240 pounds. that inertia resists movement at all times... ALL you do in the 1/4 mile is accelerate, at all times... it would kill you, but not cause a 17.4 Did you ever say the temp (bev hills could get hot, but how far above sea level?)
10-21-2003, 07:11 AM
#55
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Originally Posted by SXN
30 for all 4 rims, times 8 for inertia... rotating unsprung mass definately doesnt want to spin. and its not like adding a constant 240 pounds. that inertia resists movement at all times... ALL you do in the 1/4 mile is accelerate, at all times... it would kill you, but not cause a 17.4 Did you ever say the temp (bev hills could get hot, but how far above sea level?)
1
10-21-2003, 10:27 PM
#58
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Originally Posted by -=PK=-Maxima
technics? what technics? i have an automatic.....wait for the green light and step on the gas thats all the technics to it.
10-22-2003, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by ivelweyz
No you're supposed to time it so that you are moving at the same time the light flashes. If you wait for the light to go green then you step on it you're already .5sec behind...
10-22-2003, 10:47 AM
#61
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Originally Posted by indigomax
My problem is that i always start after green light, if i try to start on yellow light, im in false start
On a pro tree you better be damn good and go as soon as you see a hint of yellow! haha
10-22-2003, 10:55 AM
#62
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ok i will tell you on my side of the track, theres 4 light, one is for stop, other for aligned the wheels i think. Then theres 4 lights, 1,2,3 yellow and the last one is green. Each racer has one of this thing on the side.
I always try to start on last microseconds of the 3th yellow light but d....!!! i cant.
I always try to start on last microseconds of the 3th yellow light but d....!!! i cant.
10-22-2003, 10:58 AM
#63
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Originally Posted by indigomax
ok i will tell you on my side of the track, theres 4 light, one is for stop, other for aligned the wheels i think. Then theres 4 lights, 1,2,3 yellow and the last one is green. Each racer has one of this thing on the side.
I always try to start on last microseconds of the 3th yellow light but d....!!! i cant.
I always try to start on last microseconds of the 3th yellow light but d....!!! i cant.
10-22-2003, 11:30 AM
#65
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Originally Posted by indigomax
ok i will try it...i really see best time after i installed my tranny cooler, Apexi cat back, and underdrive pulley...i hope i can get less time before my intake and y pipe setup.
I had it upto a point where I was able to go right when I saw the 2nd yellow transition to the 3rd and I was almost right on 0.500 everytime. But our eye-mind-foot/hand reaction times will be different so it might not work for you... or it might works better for you.
Try all combos and do what works best for you. Good luck.
10-22-2003, 12:00 PM
#67
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Originally Posted by indigomax
ok thanks for your help speed...just let me know what do you think is better start in 1 gear? and then shift....to upper, or start in D. Also what about brake torque?
Give me your opinion
Give me your opinion
If you have a JWT ECU with the extended rev limiter then you would have to go 1-2-D otherwise the tranny computer (?) will want to shift at the stock setting. It's too bad that JWT cannot change that considering the amount of money they charge to program the ECU.
10-22-2003, 06:36 PM
#69
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shifting manually wont help you if you dont have a ECU with a raised limiter. if you want some real added auto performance, get a valve body upgrade 
also, speedemn, i believe its called a TCU (transmission controll unit)
also, speedemn, i believe its called a TCU (transmission controll unit)
10-23-2003, 09:33 PM
#72
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well well...i dont have any idea...about the time. I made 16.03 seconds(16.4 without my mods) with a reaction of 0.555.
I know everybody will say that is a bad time...i dont know why here(im in vacation for a few weeks on Monterrey Mexico) all the car i saw on the track made more time(1 second avg.) than USA tracks...for example the Audi 1.8T almost stock made 16.6 s, the Sir made 16.65, neon r/t with nitro, full mod made 15.4 seconds. The track info is: 1500ft, Feels Like: 81 º Dewpoint: 50º
Barometer: 28.17 in and steady Wind: SE 2 mph
Humidity: 34% Sunrise: 7:43 am
Visibility: Unlimited Sunset: 7:06 pm
So the question is...is very different the times by country? states? or whatever?. I think i should practice my start...is good but i think my automax should start with more rpms...it can be the difference by touch the 15´s.
Let me know any suggestion.
I know everybody will say that is a bad time...i dont know why here(im in vacation for a few weeks on Monterrey Mexico) all the car i saw on the track made more time(1 second avg.) than USA tracks...for example the Audi 1.8T almost stock made 16.6 s, the Sir made 16.65, neon r/t with nitro, full mod made 15.4 seconds. The track info is: 1500ft, Feels Like: 81 º Dewpoint: 50º
Barometer: 28.17 in and steady Wind: SE 2 mph
Humidity: 34% Sunrise: 7:43 am
Visibility: Unlimited Sunset: 7:06 pm
So the question is...is very different the times by country? states? or whatever?. I think i should practice my start...is good but i think my automax should start with more rpms...it can be the difference by touch the 15´s.
Let me know any suggestion.
10-24-2003, 08:18 AM
#74
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Originally Posted by indigomax
any comment?
As for your starts, your stall RPM in your auto would be 2200RPM and that's the highest you can go unless you get a level 10 high stall torque converter or something. But do you not spin out even launching at 2200RPM?
Waht front/rear tire pressure do you run? Do you do a burnout at all or drive over the waterbox even?
10-24-2003, 12:49 PM
#75
I guess this is a good place to bring this up. For 1/4 racing is it benificial to remove everything after the cat? I'm talking about b-pipe and rear section. Its about 35 ibs and i'm guessing it makes for gains. I don't care about the difficulty of getting it off cause its already off. Is it beneficial?
10-25-2003, 01:08 AM
#78
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Originally Posted by broaner22
I guess this is a good place to bring this up. For 1/4 racing is it benificial to remove everything after the cat? I'm talking about b-pipe and rear section. Its about 35 ibs and i'm guessing it makes for gains. I don't care about the difficulty of getting it off cause its already off. Is it beneficial?
10-25-2003, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by SXN
you mean taking it off AT the track or at home. if your doing it at the track, why not do everything after the Y pipe for your runs, and smack it back on. If your already taking off the B and muffler (which wont get u that much gain anyway) why not go for the whole darn thing? Also, as ivelweyz said, its not going to weigh quite that much...
#2 Removing even the catback (leave alone y-pipe as well) will mean ZERO backpressure... good luck beating even stock Civics with that setup.