To Auto guys, how much wheel spin you get going WOT from a stop?
#1
To Auto guys, how much wheel spin you get going WOT from a stop?
I'm kind of using this as my test to see if I still have the lowend that my max should have. When i floor it from a stop I get a small amount of chip, nothing great. Do you other auto guys burn rubber when you take off from a stop or is it just a chirp like mine?
My car is a 1995 SE Auto, 133,000 miles, stock rims, replaced knock sensor but still getting 0707 cel (rear o2 sensor). Gas milage is about 21-23 running 93 octane.
My car is a 1995 SE Auto, 133,000 miles, stock rims, replaced knock sensor but still getting 0707 cel (rear o2 sensor). Gas milage is about 21-23 running 93 octane.
#3
For me its the street. If its smooth and is slick, I can peel out real nice, both when turning and just going straight, but when the road is made out of pebbles, not like a gravel road or anything like that, but its pebbles with/tar. I can get a little chirp. and of course on a incline, floor it, and you'll turn some heads. Its fun, but I'm afraid of messing up my engine.
#5
Originally Posted by ymNA
it's all about the tires, I can spin my tires on any road cuz mine has no traction (540 thread life rating)
#6
Originally Posted by ivelweyz
you expect to get rid of a o2 sensor code by changing the KS, it's the other way around...
#7
Originally Posted by NISMOMAXMAN
For me its the street. If its smooth and is slick, I can peel out real nice, both when turning and just going straight, but when the road is made out of pebbles, not like a gravel road or anything like that, but its pebbles with/tar. I can get a little chirp. and of course on a incline, floor it, and you'll turn some heads. Its fun, but I'm afraid of messing up my engine.
also, when i floored the brakes going about 25-30 mph i skidded along the ground so i guess i don't have much traction.
oh yeah, i have a 97 SE auto with 16 inch stock wheels and everything else is stock too.
#8
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Originally Posted by Bmr4life
oh naw, before I changed my KS, i had, 0304, 0505, and some other O2 code. Now that i've changed it, i just get 0707. I actually haven't had it thrown in over a month or so.
#9
Originally Posted by NISMOMAXMAN
For me its the street. If its smooth and is slick, I can peel out real nice, both when turning and just going straight, but when the road is made out of pebbles, not like a gravel road or anything like that, but its pebbles with/tar. I can get a little chirp. and of course on a incline, floor it, and you'll turn some heads. Its fun, but I'm afraid of messing up my engine.
#10
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My tires spin like 2-3 revs on WOT.
http://members.cardomain.com/vasiliy
http://members.cardomain.com/vasiliy
#11
Originally Posted by ivelweyz
The KS code was there because of the o2 codes. You could've saved some money and gotten the o2s first...
#12
Depending on the road surface, smooth or rough I can spin right across the intersection. Also depends on if I'm trying to spin or not. Going WOT from a stop usually lays a good four to six feet of rubber. 96 SE, 100K+ miles, 16" wheels, 225/50-16 Kuhmo 712s, modified stock air box.
#13
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Originally Posted by vsamoylov
My tires spin like 2-3 revs on WOT.
http://members.cardomain.com/vasiliy
http://members.cardomain.com/vasiliy
#14
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who the **** you calling a dumb ****? You are the ****ing idiot. I got hella people that agree with me and I got the proof you ****ing moron. And I never said that it was a 2k1. I said it is a 2k because it is. ****ing check my page. So shut the **** up.
http://members.cardomain.com/vasiliy
http://members.cardomain.com/vasiliy
#15
Originally Posted by Bmr4life
yeah, I saw some post saying that, but i caught my 02 for $60 and thought I couldn't let that deal roll by. When my car gets out the shop, i plan on changing out the front O2s. I can leave the rear one alone right, since it only does work when the fronts are bad.
This is right right?
#16
I just switched to my crappy winters, and I spun from 4500 to 6500, and then another little bit after the shift as well Stock tires suck!
As for the completely unnecessary swearing, I've never seen a 2k engine in a 96 before. Since the majority of the engine benefit on the 2k is from the intake manifold, what's the point of installing it with a 96 manifold?
As for the completely unnecessary swearing, I've never seen a 2k engine in a 96 before. Since the majority of the engine benefit on the 2k is from the intake manifold, what's the point of installing it with a 96 manifold?
#17
who the **** you calling a dumb ****? You are the ****ing idiot. I got hella people that agree with me and I got the proof you ****ing moron. And I never said that it was a 2k1. I said it is a 2k because it is. ****ing check my page. So shut the **** up.
Pics on your site show a vq30de(95-99 motor), its not a vq30de-K
I owned a 95 and a 2k, the 2k motors don't have aluminum intake Manifolds and they have a VI, your pics don't show that......
This is the pic you have on your site saying its a 2k engine:
There is a 2k engine in a pic but not one of it in your car, just saying what's on your site
#20
Originally Posted by vsamoylov
who the **** you calling a dumb ****? You are the ****ing idiot. I got hella people that agree with me and I got the proof you ****ing moron. And I never said that it was a 2k1. I said it is a 2k because it is. ****ing check my page. So shut the **** up.
http://members.cardomain.com/vasiliy
http://members.cardomain.com/vasiliy
Dave
#22
Originally Posted by vsamoylov
My pics prove that I have a 2k engine. There is one pic of the 2k engine vin # on the sight. Check a 2k or 2k1 max for that vin and you will realize that it is the same vin.
...I am amused.
#24
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Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by vsamoylov
who the **** you calling a dumb ****? You are the ****ing idiot. I got hella people that agree with me and I got the proof you ****ing moron. And I never said that it was a 2k1. I said it is a 2k because it is. ****ing check my page. So shut the **** up.
http://members.cardomain.com/vasiliy
http://members.cardomain.com/vasiliy
#26
Originally Posted by vsamoylov
My pics prove that I have a 2k engine. There is one pic of the 2k engine vin # on the sight. Check a 2k or 2k1 max for that vin and you will realize that it is the same vin.
Dude what are you balbering about, I only see 4th Gen Engine compartments, with 4th Gen Engine with a 2k Throtolle body Mevi Install.
#27
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
From his web site:
1) 5th gen front struts dont fit on a 4th gen.
2) 5th gen rear shocks don't accept 4th gen springs.
3) OEM dampers + aftermarket springs =
For the suspension, I choose H&R with stock 2k shocks off my brothers Maxima
2) 5th gen rear shocks don't accept 4th gen springs.
3) OEM dampers + aftermarket springs =
#30
Originally Posted by vsamoylov
My tires spin like 2-3 revs on WOT.
http://members.cardomain.com/vasiliy
http://members.cardomain.com/vasiliy
Since when does swapping a 3.0 engine with another 3.0 engine suddenly make your car a torque beast that can rip the tires to shreds at low revs?
#32
Originally Posted by Bmr4life
Grrrrrrr enough with all this OT biotching, I'm still trying to see if this is a good way of checking for sluggishness.
If you're really worried about poor performance, get a $15 multimeter and Haynes/Chiltons manual ($18) and check all you sensors, calculate your MPGs, yank your plugs and check for odd wear, check your ECU for codes, and do a vacuum test (takes 1 minute with a Mighty Vac $25). All these tools and analysis will reveal any potential problems. $60 in tools including the Haynes/Chiltons will let you trouble nearly any electrical/mechanical part your car. It's far more accurate than estimating power thru wheelspin.
Dave
#33
Originally Posted by vsamoylov
Me showing vins prove that my firewall vins match the engine which is out of the car. Then my other vin proves that I have a 2k engine in the car. Find a 2k or 2k1 maxima and look for that vin. It will also say 22222 nrunu on the block
Dave
#34
Originally Posted by Dave B
No, wheelspin really mean nothing. Things like an oily street, asphalt surface, concrete surface, freshly washed street (recently rained), cold weather, hot weather, etc will all make a difference in how well you can spin the tires. Some days I can punch it in 1st at 4000rpms and still horribly, other days I punch it and it just takes off. Sometimes I can chirp into 2nd and sometimes I can't. It all depends on the surface.
If you're really worried about poor performance, get a $15 multimeter and Haynes/Chiltons manual ($18) and check all you sensors, calculate your MPGs, yank your plugs and check for odd wear, check your ECU for codes, and do a vacuum test (takes 1 minute with a Mighty Vac $25). All these tools and analysis will reveal any potential problems. $60 in tools including the Haynes/Chiltons will let you trouble nearly any electrical/mechanical part your car. It's far more accurate than estimating power thru wheelspin.
Dave
If you're really worried about poor performance, get a $15 multimeter and Haynes/Chiltons manual ($18) and check all you sensors, calculate your MPGs, yank your plugs and check for odd wear, check your ECU for codes, and do a vacuum test (takes 1 minute with a Mighty Vac $25). All these tools and analysis will reveal any potential problems. $60 in tools including the Haynes/Chiltons will let you trouble nearly any electrical/mechanical part your car. It's far more accurate than estimating power thru wheelspin.
Dave
thanks for the info. But whats a Might Vac?
#35
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Posts: n/a
I am using everything from 00 except intake manifold and airbox and a couple of small things. but everything else is off a 00. if you want more info, my bro can tell you everything because he did alot of work on it also. msamoylov@yahoo.com
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