I have a 98 SE 5spd with 81k miles. I was on my way home from school and the engine started to get a little rough, then the engine check light came on. I got home and when I went to start the car up, it would go. I checked the code, 0606 which is cylinder 3 misfire. I tried to start the car again, the engine start to shake a little this time but the rpms didnt anywhere past about 100. Should the car still start if its misfiring? I had the car for a little more than a month. I hope its just the spark plug because Im not sure when they were last changed. My friend is telling me its a piston ring because he said he thinks it was making a noise before, I dont think he knows much about cars. I also put Redline fuel injection cleaner in the day before with a full take of 93 octane gas. Should I worry about the piston rings? Thanks.

 

The misfire could be b/c of a bad plug or even the coil pack going bad.

I highly doubt its a piston ring but its hard to tell unless I could actually see the car in person. You would have known if it was a ring a long time ago.

Yes, a car that is misfiring can still start.

 

coil pack bad...

 

Thanks for the replies, if that one coilpack is bad, the the car would not even start?

 

I had a bad coilpack #2, the car misfired a lot when I accelerated but still drove

 

Anyone know why its not starting at all? When I try, I can feel the engine try to turn on, rpms go up only a little bit, about 100. Frankencar intake is in the mail and then this happens.

 

I was used search to find somehwere go the the ignition coils from besides the dealer and it seems that Courtesy Parts is suppose to have them for $50-60 but I cant find them. All I foudn was ignition coils for 3rd gens and 300zx. Does anyone have the code number or anywhere else I can buy them at? Thanks.

 

www.nissanparts.org has everything pretty much...

 

Thanks so much. I found two different ones, one says Hanshin and and the other says Mitsubishi. Which one should i get?

 

Either one, they are just different brands.

http://www.jerryromenissan.com has them too. When you view your cart, click "promotion code" and then type in "maxima" to get 25% off

Just see which one is cheaper in the end after shipping charges and order from the cheapest place to save a few bucks

 

Today I switched the ignition coil from cylinder 3 to cylinder 1. I cleared the ecu already. I tried to start up the car, same problem. I checked if it was the code and it gave me 0505 which is No Failure Recorded/Detected. Is it not giving me a code because the car is not starting up? What should I do now? Please help. Thanks.

 

A car will start with bad ignition coils. Will just missfire at idle and accelaration. With your car not starting, I suspect something else is wrong.

 

I'd suggest checking your crankshaft position sensors. This may be causing your problems.

 

i have a 99 SE and i had the same problem. i bought the car at 84k miles and it had a rough idle and it would hesitate upon acceleration. i got an ecu code saying cylinder 3 misfire as well. i asked a technician at nissan and he told me most maximas that had the same symptoms had a bad coil pack. i changed the coil pack for a $100 and the problem was solved.

 

Alot of us here have had problems with the coil packs on our 99's. I've had 2 coils go out in a matter of 30 days, with a third one acting up. Thus I decided to change them all. Got flamed badly for replacing them all, but my misfire problems are solved. With the coils, even if you test them according to the Haynes manual, they may test ok, but actually misfire every once in a awhile. I actually went through few months of misfires until codes were triggered telling me which cylinders.

JeEve problem is he can't get his car started now. He may need a coil pack, but something else is preventing his car starting.

I'd be checking all sensors related to startting the car with the first place to look crankshaft position sensor.

 

I will give you $100 if it's not ignition coil #3 going bad

 

I got a chance to check the spark plugs today, they seemed fine, no oil or anything on them, Im not sure how to tell if they are bad, never changed spark plugs before since this is my first car. They are OEM NGK PFR5G-11, the ones from factory. I had the car for a little over a month so Im not sure if they were ever changed before. I ordered NGK Coppers and ill see if that doesnt anything at all to fix my problem. If not then I will get a new ignition coil.

 

There are two types of Hanshin ignition coils at Jerry Rome.
left is 22448-31u06, and right is 22448-31u01.
I had my ignition coils checked at the dealer and #1 is bad. I don't know how to define left and right and which one to order.

 

I think right is front and left is back. Just call them up and ask

 

I went and got an Actron Digital Multitester from pepboys to check the resistance on the ignition coils. I set the tester to 200ohms and connected the positive probe to terminal no.2 and negative to terminal no.1. The moment I touch the positive probe, I get a reading of 199-99ohms with one decimal place and then it gives me "1__._" I get the same thing for the 4 ignition coils i checked. The Haynes manual said I should get continuity which is a low reading of about 5, does the tester not read anything that low? I used the tester on the camshaft position sensor set at 2000ohms and it gave me a reading of 1,500ohms. Haynes manuel says it should be 1,440 to 1,760ohms. Is there any other way to check the ignition coils? Thanks.

 

Unfortunately, the multitester may not help you in determining which coil has gone bad. I've had misfire problems for months and was constantly testing each coil in accordance to the Haynes manual instructions. No only did each coil test to specs but they all tested nearly the same result. I tested them hot/cold and about a dozen times at least. I had to wait till the misfire tiggered a code to tell me which one is going. Then I switched that coil to the one next to it, reset ecu, drove car till it triggered a code for the switched cylinder. Thats the best way to tell which one.

I think theres 2 crankshaft sensors to test. One on top and one on bottom.

Good Luck

 

I tried the Multitester because I cant get the car started to figure out if the ignition coil is bad. Ill didnt get a chance to check the lower crankshaft sensor because I had to go to work, maybe tomarrow I can do it. Anyone think my problem might be a bad fuse?

 

I'll sell you a set of 6 used coil packs for $50. one has an occasional misfire, but the rest are good. let me know if anyone is interested.

 

I put in some new spark plugs and I moved ignition coil 3 to cylinder 5 and its the same thing, so I dont think its the ignition coil. The crankshaft position sensor, the top one, had the correct resistance. I checked the other one (REF), bottom one on the oil pan and I was getting .7ohms steady, but when it was jumping it was under 100ohms. The Haynes manual says it should be 470 to 570 ohms. Is it ok if I just unbolt it and check the resistance, I was having some trouble getting the probes on the terminals because it was hard to get to. Thanks, any other ideas would be great.

 

If its not between 470-570, I would think the sensor is malfunctioning. I would suggest removing it and re-testing.

 

I removed the crankshaft sensor (REF) and the resistance was 530-540 ohms. I cleaned it, searching i found that it helped some people but it didnt do anything. I took out the other crankshaft sensor to clean it and see if that would do anything, when I took it out, the side of the senor had oil all over it. Is it suppose to have oil on it? I wiped off the oil and put it back in but that didnt do anything either. What else can i do?

 

You are either not getting fuel or not getting spark. You've spent a lot of time and money looking at the spark side of the equation, and looking back at your original post, you said that you had just put in a can of Redline fuel injector cleaner. I would try, just for argument's sake (and since it probably needs it anyway) putting on a new fuel filter. I've had situations where running some injector or carb cleaner picks up a bunch of gunk from the tank or lines and clogs up the filter.

 

Thanks for the reply. I will was planning to change the fuel filter before the problem but I didnt think it would be causing the fuel to completely to cut off, but willing to try anything. I dont have any good shops I can take the car to and the dealership just likes to steal money. Anyone else have any other ideas?

 

Anyone know if the top crankshaft sensor is suppose to have oil on it?