brake system problems - rock hard pedal
brake system problems - rock hard pedal
I went to get new brembo rotors, metal master pads, and goodridge stainless steel lines installed. I ran into many issues and ended up getting the master cylinder, abs pump, and all four calipers replaced as well. When I first start my car the brakes seem "okay". After driving for 15-20 minutes the pedal gets rock solid (can't be moved), and then it feels like I'm towing a car behind me with my maxima. I shutdown my car and wait fifteen minutes, and some of the brake pressure goes away. But after driving for another 15 minutes the pedal becomes rock solid again.
need help ..........
need help ..........
when i feel the car drag..there appears to be virtually no brake travel at all when I press on the pedal. I can stop easily from any speed by very gently resting my foot on the brakes. Also if the car is in neutral and I'm on a hill, I don't need to use my brakes to remain stationary. Could this be something with the brake line or calipers stuck? Would power assist/brake booster failure cause the brakes to lock up slightly?
You have a serious problem.
If a shop did the work, bring it back ASAP.
What is happening is one or more of the calipers is sticking (explains the dragging you're feeling). When this happens, tremendous amounts of heat are generated, which causes the brake fluid to boil and expand rapidly (explains the extra-firm pedal after a while of driving like this).
After you've experienced this dragging, do you smell anything odd? You should. It's an overheated brake assembly.
Odds are, you've already glazed the brake pads on whichever caliper(s) is/are sticking by now. They're probably garbage at this point. If you're lucky, maybe you haven't warped or cracked the rotor(s) on the problem corner(s) of the car.
If you did the work yourself, it's your deal, but if a shop did it, I'd raise holy hell over this. . .
If a shop did the work, bring it back ASAP.
What is happening is one or more of the calipers is sticking (explains the dragging you're feeling). When this happens, tremendous amounts of heat are generated, which causes the brake fluid to boil and expand rapidly (explains the extra-firm pedal after a while of driving like this).
After you've experienced this dragging, do you smell anything odd? You should. It's an overheated brake assembly.
Odds are, you've already glazed the brake pads on whichever caliper(s) is/are sticking by now. They're probably garbage at this point. If you're lucky, maybe you haven't warped or cracked the rotor(s) on the problem corner(s) of the car.
If you did the work yourself, it's your deal, but if a shop did it, I'd raise holy hell over this. . .
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,344
The brake booster plunger needs adjustment. There are specs in the factory service manual. When the shop replaced the master cylinder or trouble shooting, they must have mess with the plunger. The plunger is out far too much and it's blocking the pressure release hole on the master cylinder. When the pluger is NOT within spec, the fluid heats up. The plunger cause the master cylinder piston to block the pressure release hole. When the presssure have nowhere to go, they expands to the caliper piston. That's why your brakes all locked up and the car won't go anywhere.
For the amount of money that you spent on "upgrading" your brakes at this place... I expect them to FULLY compensate you for your troubles, ie free replacement of all labor, and parts if they are damaged. The shop should have done the job right in the first place.
Originally Posted by 1MAX2NV
The brake booster plunger needs adjustment. There are specs in the factory service manual. When the shop replaced the master cylinder or trouble shooting, they must have mess with the plunger. The plunger is out far too much and it's blocking the pressure release hole on the master cylinder. When the pluger is within spec, the fluid heats up. The plunger cause the master cylinder piston to block the pressure release hole.
Either way though, the pads have likely been damaged - make the shop replace them. Also, consider getting a second opinion on any damage caused by this negligent repair from a separate reputable shop, so the one that botched the job doesn't try to short change you.
(If your pads or rotors are damaged, they should be replaced at no cost to you.)
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