Sorry if I I'm asking too general a question, but I wanted to know of any reliability issues with 95+ maxima's? I'm looking into buying probably a '95 with automatic transmission, and chances are it's going to have roughly 100-120k miles, I'm worried about that auto tranny, and if it is going to die on me with that amount of miles? As I rule I trust most Nissan's for reliability, I'm actually selling my 240sx with sr20det, etc...in search of something more comfortable.

Thanks, I looked through the FAQ, didn't see much in there about common problems tho.

 

Nissan engines are great (last 300k+ miles if taken care of), but the transmissions usually have problems. I just had my transmission rebuilt at 96k miles.

 

tranny swapped at 95,xxx

 

It really depends on how the last owner took care of the car. There is some people here with 150K miles original tranny and engine and no complaints at all.
My manual tarnny has 87K miles and it feels very strong. I say my tranny can still for for some more thousand miles.

 

I'm at 71,000 and need a trans rebuild.
Just buy one that has a rebuilt transmission.

 

I'm at 205k and she still runs good, have changed alt, starter, water pump, knock sensor and of course maintenance areas such as brakes and batt.

 

128,000 miles, original engine and trans...don't drive like a , do the services when it's supposed to be done, and it should be fine.

 

That's the cool part about my max, because I do drivel ike a

 

145,000 here on original auto transimission and I do service regularly, but I don't baby my max either.

Definately not a mandatory transimission swap like on BMW at 100k - 130k

I have owned my '95 since '97 I have only had to change starter (known problem on this model). Really does run like the day I got it.

 

Funny thing, i actually think mine runs better, i know for a fact, but that just means the ppl who had it before me didnt take that goof of care, but now she's in good hands, hass been for 3 yrs

 

Thanks guys...

In case I would need a new/rebuilt tranny, can anyone give me a ballpark price for replacement...what do low-mileage used auto's sell for? Anyone change one themselves? I've done a clutch swap on a rwd sr20...I figure I could change an auto fwd.

One more thing, how long are the timing belts known to last, and should they be replaced at 60k and 120k?

 

my 99 has 106 original miles on the tranny got her at 61k a insurence company owned it before me and they did everything to the manual (ie. oil every 3k and tranny every 30k) i only putt syntec oil and synthetic tranny fluid in her she runnes like she ran when i test drove her (scared the dealer)

 

Where'd that come from? My cousin's E36 M3 has 155,000, no new clutch yet. Why take a shot at BMW when their resale is even better than Honda's? Like I said before, buying a BMW is like buying a good house in a good neighborhood. You are not wasting money in doing so. Good luck trying to get a 99 323i for less than 20k--not bad for a 5 yr old car and bottom of the line.

Anyway, Maximas have stuff that original owners probably fixed under warranty. If not, and you have to go to the dealer, it costs big bucks. Because the 4th gen is so cheap on the used market, if it were me, I would go 98-99. A 95 with only 100k is not normal mileage for a 9 yr. old car, so that is suspect to me. 98 has tamper-proof ODO. It does have its share of issues, but like I said a diligent 1st owner would have corrected them under warranty. The only ones that should be immediately addressed are MAKE SURE THE ALTERNATOR WAS REPLACED and MAKE SURE THE EVAP CANISTER, BOOST SENSOR AND VENT CONTROL VALVE WERE REPLACED. Those 2 issues would cost nearly $1000 at the dealership to correct--so if you're getting it from a dealership, have them address! Good luck.

 

I've got a 96, bought it with 64,000 and it now has 126,000, the only problem that I've had (last week) was that the starter, just cleaned it out, re-installed it and it works fine.

Love the car.

 

158k on original (auto) transmission...no performance problems at all.

only non-wear repairs (excl. brakes, battery) are EGR overhaul (120K) and recent CV boot replacement (158k).

 

maxima engines have a timing chain which is designed to last the life of the engine

 

Uh...VG30's use a belt

BTW, you guys are talking about dealership costs...no offense but why don't you just do your own work on the car?

 

95 and up uses the VQ30.... timing chain, never needs replacement

VG's are 89-94 and yes they use a belt


I do all the work on my car but some of us are mechanically inclined and dont know how to work on our cars. The stealerships have no mercy, they will drain your wallet and have supposed technicians work on your car. In most cases they're no better than your average joe mechanic.

 

Awesome...Do they happen to have any tensioner issues, like KA motors due? Any rata tat tat under the valve cover(s) ??

 

My 97 Maxima's done just over 149k miles and the only thing ever to go wrong with it was the starter motor just the other week. Wasn't a major problem, just needed to pull it out, replace the brushes and bearings and now it works like a new one I don't drive it like hell, but I don't drive it "softly" either.

Before me it was used as a company car travelling between Auckland and Hamilton daily, with services done at the time they were due. Keep up the services and it'll be fairly in-expensive to maintain

 

OK. Didn't know we were debating resale value here, but just so you know, CNN/Money did a story on KBB's calculations of resale value and the Honda accord was at the top of the list. I guess they were just taking a shot at BMW too by leaving off their cars. check for yourself http://money.cnn.com/pf/features/lists/resale_values/

Also on your chosen 1999 323i, take your pick between the 6 I found local all with less than 60k for $18k and lower. (Don't even know why I feel the strong need to respond to this)

As for my comment about BMW, it was not intended to be a shot at them, simply the facts of history. They are great cars, probably will buy one in the future. I was also comparing BMW's mid 90's products with the mid 90's maximas. As for those cars, I have done lots of research, talked to some of the best mechanics at dealerships and independent shops in town and it is unanimous, they all say to plan for transmission work in the 100k - 130k range.

Anyway, glad you have one single proof point on your cousin's M3 and I'm glad his clutch is doing well, but that doesn't have anything to do with the health of the transmission.

Lastly, 100k miles on a 95 is not normal to you and is suspect?? That's 11k a year and not excessively low. A broad search of 1995 maximas for sale will show you that you can find plenty around the 100k mark.

 

I suppose some cars have trannies that go sooner than others, .my friend has an 89 SE that he's owned for 4 years. Its has 237,000 miles and he just last month replaced the auto trans. My brother also has an 89 SE with 195,000 miles that he's had for a year....original trans, and still going strong. By the way......both of these Maxs still fly......! The engines run tip top still.....I'm looking forward to how many miles I can log on to my my 98 SE auto trans. I dont know anyone that has any high mileage on their 4th gen ..........mine only has 57,000. Just broken in

 

Maybe the boyz at the BMW dealerships are using the wrong tranny fluid.(maybe they use GL 5 instead GL4) I wonder why a piece of advanced technology would have such a problem... Usually,the electrical components are the ones that fail in the european cars, but the drivetrain is bullet proof. However, if you drive a performance car,if the clutch lasts 100-130k is not too bad.
About the value, BMW retains the value very well. However, they cost a lot more than a Honda or a Nissan, so no wonder that they cost 18 k after 3 or 4 yrs. Personally, I d say that you get a lot more car for your $$ with a Maxima .

 

the 95 and 96 maxima's had cam chain tensioner issue's. If you start the car after it sat overnight and the engine rattles like a ***** tell the guy to knock $1200 off the price to get it fixed. Some develope this problem, some don't...it was "fixed" in mid 96 models....and a good oil filter is integral to preventing this as well...if the guy put fram filter in it its whole life, you can expect this.

My 96 has 116K on the clock and shifts like new...the prior owner brought it to the dealer every 3K since new and just paid them what they said....maintenance pays off. So far, I had a rear wheel bearing good bad (not cheap parts), one O2 sensor and the starter. AC is still cold, and everything works.

Depending on climate and care....you can expect a few minor nuisance repairs, but major one's with these car's are unlikely. If you are a home mechanic, like many here, the things that need fixing are generally easy. Between 95 and 97 Nissan made rapid improvements in everything from available options to taming wind and road noise....if you can find a 97-99 I think they are some of the best years...IMHO

Good luck,
JB

 

My original auto has 123K and has been drop resisted/switched for 3.5k. Still chirps second. There is one real simple way to not have to think about how long your auto is gonna last. Get a 5-spd.

 

I don t see any connection between oil filter brand and chain tensioner ...If you use a fram oil filter for all life of the engine,that wouldn t hurt anything .I would use fram filter and change the oil every 3 k that use Nissan or K&N or any other fancy brand and change the oil every 10 k or more. I used aftermarket filters so far ,with 3k change interval and no problems whatsoever. The car is a 96 Se with 143k ,the engine is nice and quiet,no rattles or leaks and noproblems in cold or warm start up. Please correct me if I am wrong. I see this as a learning experience.