What do I need to get a 200whp auto 4th Gen?...
12-07-2003, 03:12 PM
#1
What do I need to get a 200whp auto 4th Gen?...
Well I'm on a quest. I want to break 200fwhp in my '96 auto. I will have y-pipe, b-pipe, muffler, high flow cat, UDP, Frankencar w/ Apex'i intake, and hopefully a Pathfinder TB. The question is, what else do I need? I can't go with a custom ECU since I will be running nitrous shortly afterwards, and I don't want to get a MEVI due to the high price and difficult installation.
Thanks,
-Cyrus
Thanks,
-Cyrus
12-07-2003, 05:42 PM
#2
Ugh...but u can dream. It has to be possible, but short of internals? I'm thinking a whole engine overhaul, all the bolt ons, and maybe raised compression/race fuel. I take it u want an all motor Max? Cus a turbo/SC will take u well past 200. Also you would need somewhere around 240 at the crank. The 02-03 guys with an auto put down 200-215fwhp.
Look at what i found. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=186601
But its a manual
Look at what i found. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=186601
But its a manual
12-07-2003, 09:06 PM
#4
Alright so if I add an MEVI, do you think it is possible? I am not willing to go into internals, but I have seen a few 190+ whp Maxs (even autos), I'm thinking it can't be that much more? My engine is in great shape, pulls as strong as ever and is always properly maintained. Yes I want all motor, I have a nitrous-oxide setup but I am hoping to use that past 200whp so I will be around 235whp.
-Cyrus
-Cyrus
12-07-2003, 09:35 PM
#5
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Auto 4th gens with the MEVI, JWT ECU, y-pipe, catback, UDP, and intake should make around 180-185fwhp/180fwtq. I watched BSwithTF make 183fwhp/181fwtq with all those mods and I believe that's the highest I've ever heard of for an NA VQ auto. On the same day I made 189fwhp/186fwtq with the MEVI, intake, y-pipe, UDP, and muffler on my 5 speed. I still haven't dynoed with my JWT ECU. I think 200fwhp is possible with the 5 speed with all the bolt-ons, but it will be hard for an auto simply because they loose about 10fwhp compared to a 5 speed with the same mods.
Dave
Dave
12-08-2003, 09:15 AM
#7
Originally Posted by Dave B
Auto 4th gens with the MEVI, JWT ECU, y-pipe, catback, UDP, and intake should make around 180-185fwhp/180fwtq. I watched BSwithTF make 183fwhp/181fwtq with all those mods and I believe that's the highest I've ever heard of for an NA VQ auto. On the same day I made 189fwhp/186fwtq with the MEVI, intake, y-pipe, UDP, and muffler on my 5 speed. I still haven't dynoed with my JWT ECU. I think 200fwhp is possible with the 5 speed with all the bolt-ons, but it will be hard for an auto simply because they loose about 10fwhp compared to a 5 speed with the same mods.
Dave
Dave
Im waiting for my clutch to break in and then im planning to dyno.
My mods consist of UDP/CAI/Ypipe/Catback/Gforce ECU/ExedyStage1/Stillen Flywheel.
12-08-2003, 10:37 AM
#10
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Originally Posted by Requin6
on my last NA dyno before i put the SC on i hit 200 fwhp. i would hardely say i had "all the bolt ons".
i guess i forgot to change my sig.
--Paul
i guess i forgot to change my sig.
--Paul
What did you do differently this go around? I remember your prior dyno was 195fwhp. Did you remove the 17s and put the 15s back on? I'm going to try and dyno this weekend with the same exact combo plus my stock 15s.
Dave
12-08-2003, 10:39 AM
#11
Dave...
yes all i changed on this from the 195hp run was the wheels. those 17s are bricks. with the 15s on i picked up roughly 6fwhp and 5fwtq..not to mention the added driveability. the car drives soo much better with the 15s on. the clutch engagement and accelertion/torque is so nice.
--Paul
yes all i changed on this from the 195hp run was the wheels. those 17s are bricks. with the 15s on i picked up roughly 6fwhp and 5fwtq..not to mention the added driveability. the car drives soo much better with the 15s on. the clutch engagement and accelertion/torque is so nice.
--Paul
12-08-2003, 10:43 AM
#12
Originally Posted by Requin6
Dave...
yes all i changed on this one was the wheels. those 17s are bricks. with the 15s on i picked up roughly 6fwhp and 5fwtq.
--Paul
yes all i changed on this one was the wheels. those 17s are bricks. with the 15s on i picked up roughly 6fwhp and 5fwtq.
--Paul
Thanks,
-Cyrus
12-08-2003, 11:03 AM
#13
Originally Posted by Vyrus
So do you think I have hope? With all the bolts ons except MEVI and ECU, but with a Pathfinder TB? My engine is in great condition, faster than other autos with the same mods. Do you think it is possible?
Thanks,
-Cyrus
Thanks,
-Cyrus
12-08-2003, 11:35 AM
#14
Originally Posted by Vyrus
So do you think I have hope? With all the bolts ons except MEVI and ECU, but with a Pathfinder TB? My engine is in great condition, faster than other autos with the same mods. Do you think it is possible?
Thanks,
-Cyrus
Thanks,
-Cyrus
--Paul
12-08-2003, 01:01 PM
#15
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Originally Posted by Requin6
Dave...
yes all i changed on this from the 195hp run was the wheels. those 17s are bricks. with the 15s on i picked up roughly 6fwhp and 5fwtq..not to mention the added driveability. the car drives soo much better with the 15s on. the clutch engagement and accelertion/torque is so nice.
--Paul
yes all i changed on this from the 195hp run was the wheels. those 17s are bricks. with the 15s on i picked up roughly 6fwhp and 5fwtq..not to mention the added driveability. the car drives soo much better with the 15s on. the clutch engagement and accelertion/torque is so nice.
--Paul
Well there you guys have it. Going from 40lb 15" rims to 52lb 17" rims will suck out about 6fwhp and 5fwtq. Someone should make this it's own thread.
Dave
12-08-2003, 01:05 PM
#16
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Originally Posted by Vyrus
So do you think I have hope? With all the bolts ons except MEVI and ECU, but with a Pathfinder TB? My engine is in great condition, faster than other autos with the same mods. Do you think it is possible?
Thanks,
-Cyrus
Thanks,
-Cyrus
BTW, why do you think your auto is quicker than others with the same mods? Have you gone to the track or dynoed yet.
Dave
12-08-2003, 01:32 PM
#17
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
Originally Posted by Dave B
Sweet.
Well there you guys have it. Going from 40lb 15" rims to 52lb 17" rims will suck out about 6fwhp and 5fwtq. Someone should make this it's own thread.
Dave
Well there you guys have it. Going from 40lb 15" rims to 52lb 17" rims will suck out about 6fwhp and 5fwtq. Someone should make this it's own thread.
Dave
12-08-2003, 07:36 PM
#20
Peak dyno numbers are great and all, but all you need to do is get on a dyno that reads notoriously high and you will "have 200whp". Just because a dyno says you have XXX hp doesn't really mean you are making any more power than anyone else, so the claim of having 200whp means nothing.
I'm nowhere close to 200whp, my last dyno was like 185whp and 175wtq on a dynojet. And yet cars that put down more power on the dyno still stare at my taillights.
What I'm getting at is don't get hung up on peak HP numbers because they mean absolutely nothing. All they signify is that a dyno reads high. Someone else could have more power than you and have lower dyno numbers just because they dyno'd on a different machine.
Also, how do you expect to get 200whp in a cost effective manner if you shun the idea of getting the two mods that are probably the most helpful N/A mods out there (besides Y-pipe), MEVI and JWT ECU. I dare say you'll never see 200whp without these two things and cams on a 4th gen auto. So getting 200whp cheaply on an N/A 4th gen auto is not going to happen.
I'm nowhere close to 200whp, my last dyno was like 185whp and 175wtq on a dynojet. And yet cars that put down more power on the dyno still stare at my taillights.
What I'm getting at is don't get hung up on peak HP numbers because they mean absolutely nothing. All they signify is that a dyno reads high. Someone else could have more power than you and have lower dyno numbers just because they dyno'd on a different machine.
Also, how do you expect to get 200whp in a cost effective manner if you shun the idea of getting the two mods that are probably the most helpful N/A mods out there (besides Y-pipe), MEVI and JWT ECU. I dare say you'll never see 200whp without these two things and cams on a 4th gen auto. So getting 200whp cheaply on an N/A 4th gen auto is not going to happen.
12-08-2003, 07:49 PM
#21
exhaust cut out would be simple and really powerful, bout 50 bux installed and and they are said to give .3 in the quarter on stock exhausts
smaller and lighter wheels
grounding kits
cmon people, lets think out side the box, we need a broader vision for our mods
smaller and lighter wheels
grounding kits
cmon people, lets think out side the box, we need a broader vision for our mods
12-08-2003, 09:20 PM
#22
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Originally Posted by waveridr85
exhaust cut out would be simple and really powerful, bout 50 bux installed and and they are said to give .3 in the quarter on stock exhausts
smaller and lighter wheels
grounding kits
cmon people, lets think out side the box, we need a broader vision for our mods
smaller and lighter wheels
grounding kits
cmon people, lets think out side the box, we need a broader vision for our mods
Smaller and lighter wheels will always help, especially on the auto. Smaller diameter tires increase the gearing a lot and gearing is what an auto needs.
Grounding kits are todays "snake oil". They do nothing if your OEM grounds in good shape.
Dave
12-08-2003, 09:27 PM
#23
in addition, do some basic maintance will help you with couple horses. regularly clean air filter, IAC valve, throttle body, knock sensor. check all sparks, O2s, alternator, knock sensor, battery.
other minor stuff you can try out probably like high-flow cat, light weight wheels, direct cold air draw from headlight (probably not gonna work too well on dyno cuz you are standing still), and apexi s-afc.
just throwing out ideas.
other minor stuff you can try out probably like high-flow cat, light weight wheels, direct cold air draw from headlight (probably not gonna work too well on dyno cuz you are standing still), and apexi s-afc.
just throwing out ideas.
12-08-2003, 09:28 PM
#24
Originally Posted by Dave B
Grounding kits are todays "snake oil". They do nothing if your OEM grounds in good shape.
Dave
Dave
12-08-2003, 09:34 PM
#25
Originally Posted by krismax
Im hoping for 210 fwhp this winter 
Have lighter rims, not going to have power steering and will have JWECU.
Have lighter rims, not going to have power steering and will have JWECU.
12-08-2003, 10:48 PM
#26
Originally Posted by Dave B
You're going to have to get the MEVI/JWT ECU if you want to be quicker. There's no way around it. It's an easy install too, just time consuming. 200whp is great and all, but the MEVI/JWT ECU adds quite a bit more "power under the curve" and that's really what counts.
BTW, why do you think your auto is quicker than others with the same mods? Have you gone to the track or dynoed yet.
Dave
BTW, why do you think your auto is quicker than others with the same mods? Have you gone to the track or dynoed yet.
Dave
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
What I'm getting at is don't get hung up on peak HP numbers because they mean absolutely nothing. All they signify is that a dyno reads high. Someone else could have more power than you and have lower dyno numbers just because they dyno'd on a different machine.
Also, how do you expect to get 200whp in a cost effective manner if you shun the idea of getting the two mods that are probably the most helpful N/A mods out there (besides Y-pipe), MEVI and JWT ECU. I dare say you'll never see 200whp without these two things and cams on a 4th gen auto. So getting 200whp cheaply on an N/A 4th gen auto is not going to happen.
Also, how do you expect to get 200whp in a cost effective manner if you shun the idea of getting the two mods that are probably the most helpful N/A mods out there (besides Y-pipe), MEVI and JWT ECU. I dare say you'll never see 200whp without these two things and cams on a 4th gen auto. So getting 200whp cheaply on an N/A 4th gen auto is not going to happen.
I can/probably will invest in an MEVI if it helps me reach my goal, but I know I will not be able to take full advantage of it without the ECU.
I know numbers do not signify performance, this is just a little personal barrier I want to break. I am not expecting my car to be a N/A speed freak or anything of the sort, just trying to break 200whp. Were I trying to run fast times I would definitely have looked into weight reduction by now. By the way I will be running soon spraying a 50-shot, still only expecting 14.6s (which seem very plausible at this point) granted everything runs right.
-Cyrus
12-09-2003, 07:03 AM
#29
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
Peak dyno numbers are great and all, but all you need to do is get on a dyno that reads notoriously high and you will "have 200whp". Just because a dyno says you have XXX hp doesn't really mean you are making any more power than anyone else, so the claim of having 200whp means nothing.
I'm nowhere close to 200whp, my last dyno was like 185whp and 175wtq on a dynojet. And yet cars that put down more power on the dyno still stare at my taillights.
What I'm getting at is don't get hung up on peak HP numbers because they mean absolutely nothing. All they signify is that a dyno reads high. Someone else could have more power than you and have lower dyno numbers just because they dyno'd on a different machine.
Also, how do you expect to get 200whp in a cost effective manner if you shun the idea of getting the two mods that are probably the most helpful N/A mods out there (besides Y-pipe), MEVI and JWT ECU. I dare say you'll never see 200whp without these two things and cams on a 4th gen auto. So getting 200whp cheaply on an N/A 4th gen auto is not going to happen.
I'm nowhere close to 200whp, my last dyno was like 185whp and 175wtq on a dynojet. And yet cars that put down more power on the dyno still stare at my taillights.
What I'm getting at is don't get hung up on peak HP numbers because they mean absolutely nothing. All they signify is that a dyno reads high. Someone else could have more power than you and have lower dyno numbers just because they dyno'd on a different machine.
Also, how do you expect to get 200whp in a cost effective manner if you shun the idea of getting the two mods that are probably the most helpful N/A mods out there (besides Y-pipe), MEVI and JWT ECU. I dare say you'll never see 200whp without these two things and cams on a 4th gen auto. So getting 200whp cheaply on an N/A 4th gen auto is not going to happen.
It could be you dynoed low . I will dyno again soon to see if anything changed.
12-09-2003, 12:35 PM
#30
Originally Posted by krismax
I would believe the dyno going high for me but i dynoed with about 12 z's stock ,and modded.They put down between 230-240 stock. I guess if im on a high dyno ,than they are 15 to 20 less than that according to you.
It could be you dynoed low . I will dyno again soon to see if anything changed.
It could be you dynoed low . I will dyno again soon to see if anything changed.
I very well may have dyno'd low. Some people suspect that as their numbers were lower than they expected that day too. You never really know unless you dyno on like 5 machines and see what the average is.
The same thing goes with Z dynos, I've seen them as high as 244whp (briguymax's) and as low as like 225. That's why I don't like dynos except for tuning purposes because you can't compare the dynos of 2 different vehicles on 2 different machines with any modicum of certainty that they are dynoing where they are "supposed to".
I guess dyno numbers are nice to have but just remember that performance is what we all go for. We could all go dyno on an uncalibrated machine that says we are all making 220 to the wheels but if our cars are still slow what's the point. I say focus more on performance, even if you are not ever going to go to the track or race others, rather than an arbitrary dyno # which may or may not be accurate. It comes down to the question would you rather have the most powerful maxima in the real world or just have the claim to fame of 200whp.
04-19-2012, 01:09 AM
#31
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 11
Its wheel diameter not wheel weight that effects HP
04-19-2012, 01:17 AM
#32
newb, dont you realize this is a NINE YEAR OLD THREAD. 
Last edited by Kuhn_man; 04-19-2012 at 01:19 AM.
04-19-2012, 06:11 PM
#33
you are:
a) very wrong
b) posting in a thread that is nearly a decade old
come on now...
to the noob!
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