View Poll Results: Would you like a new turbo kit
Yes, Definitely!



6
40.00%
Yes, but it depends on the price



7
46.67%
Maybe



1
6.67%
No



1
6.67%
Voters: 15. You may not vote on this poll
Quality Turbo Kit Interests?
Quality Turbo Kit Interests?
This poll is to gauge your interest on how much some of you would like to see a new turbo kit being developed. Granted it's more then likely going to be more expensive then the others out there, this is a complete turbo solution. New Fuel, Custom Manifolds, etc. Like our 5th gen kit.
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I would definitely like a new, QUALITY turbo kit. All the kits out there now basically suck @ss. If the new turbo kit were honestly very good quality (...and yes, that includes not blowing the motor after a few weeks on 50% of our cars), then I would most likely purchase one.
...all this provided of course that it comes with new fuel, stronger manifolds, perhaps stronger bearings and gaskets, stronger cam seal, camshafts, HELL maybe even pistons and rods.
...all this provided of course that it comes with new fuel, stronger manifolds, perhaps stronger bearings and gaskets, stronger cam seal, camshafts, HELL maybe even pistons and rods.
I think many others will agree with me on this, making custom manifolds is not necessary at all with the VQ. The stock manifolds, while super ugly, aren't restrictive at all. We've already seen dynos of replacement tube-style headers that replace the cast iron manifolds only and the dynos show 1-2hp gained. It's not worth, even on a turbo. Also, the stock manifolds are cast iron which means they'll be able to take a lot more thermal abuse than a welded header like you've designed for the 5th gen and Altima. A cast iron manifold won't crack at a weld since it's a single cast unit. You manifolds on the otherhand, have over 20 welding points which looks like a reliability problem when paired with the immense heat of a turbo.
I suggest the following:
1) Keep the stock manifolds. This will lower you price substanially therefore a lot more people will be interested in the kit. Simply develop a well designed turbo y-pipe and downpipe.
2) Fitment and quality is key. The other available turbo kits for the 4th gen have poor fitment and quality. You must design the pipes with OEM precision and every kit fits the same way. The buyer should never have to fab the kit to make it work his car.
3) Locate the turbo where the other companies locate thier turbos (where the battery sits). This is an ideal location. Your location of the turbo (down by the starter) looks both dangerous and overly complicated to work on. Keep it simple.
4) The kit MUST utilize both cooling fans. Some of the available turbo kits only end up using one fan and this causes overheating issues.
5) Fueling for a 95-97 Maxima can easily be managed by a reprogrammed JWT ECU, 300ZXTT injectors, and fuel pump. Nothing else needs to be done. This setup is both extremely clean and will run far better than some FMU/AFC setup unless you're trying to push 350+fwhp.
People will be more willing to pay a little more for quality, that's for certain, but if you're trying to sell them things they don't need (headers) and you're price is substanially higher, they'll look elsewhere. I think you'll find the 4th gen Maxima is probably the easiest setup to turbo and many more people will be interested since the car is cheap to buy and has proven it's reliability. I suggest cheaping it both simple and decently priced. Once you go over $4000, people will look elsewhere.
Dave
I suggest the following:
1) Keep the stock manifolds. This will lower you price substanially therefore a lot more people will be interested in the kit. Simply develop a well designed turbo y-pipe and downpipe.
2) Fitment and quality is key. The other available turbo kits for the 4th gen have poor fitment and quality. You must design the pipes with OEM precision and every kit fits the same way. The buyer should never have to fab the kit to make it work his car.
3) Locate the turbo where the other companies locate thier turbos (where the battery sits). This is an ideal location. Your location of the turbo (down by the starter) looks both dangerous and overly complicated to work on. Keep it simple.
4) The kit MUST utilize both cooling fans. Some of the available turbo kits only end up using one fan and this causes overheating issues.
5) Fueling for a 95-97 Maxima can easily be managed by a reprogrammed JWT ECU, 300ZXTT injectors, and fuel pump. Nothing else needs to be done. This setup is both extremely clean and will run far better than some FMU/AFC setup unless you're trying to push 350+fwhp.
People will be more willing to pay a little more for quality, that's for certain, but if you're trying to sell them things they don't need (headers) and you're price is substanially higher, they'll look elsewhere. I think you'll find the 4th gen Maxima is probably the easiest setup to turbo and many more people will be interested since the car is cheap to buy and has proven it's reliability. I suggest cheaping it both simple and decently priced. Once you go over $4000, people will look elsewhere.
Dave
WTF? Stronger cams? Cam seals??
Quality turbo kit has more to do with the fitment of the tubes, quality of the welds, choice of parts, design of the system and ease of fitment.
Quality turbo kit has more to do with the fitment of the tubes, quality of the welds, choice of parts, design of the system and ease of fitment.
Originally Posted by BOSS
ok, but what about stronger gastkets, camshafts, pistons and rods, which as we all know are crucial in maintaining the life of almost any turbo-charged motor.
Originally Posted by BOSS
I would definitely like a new, QUALITY turbo kit. All the kits out there now basically suck @ss. If the new turbo kit were honestly very good quality (...and yes, that includes not blowing the motor after a few weeks on 50% of our cars), then I would most likely purchase one.
...all this provided of course that it comes with new fuel, stronger manifolds, perhaps stronger bearings and gaskets, stronger cam seal, camshafts, HELL maybe even pistons and rods.
...all this provided of course that it comes with new fuel, stronger manifolds, perhaps stronger bearings and gaskets, stronger cam seal, camshafts, HELL maybe even pistons and rods.
I've got to disagree with a lot of this. I don't think you've got a 50% chance of blowing your VQ with boost because there are plenty of SC/turbo/nitrous Maximas doing just fine. The trick is you've got to be conservatitve and know WTF you're doing. The VQ will happily hold 300fwhp and that's more than enough to get a 3000lb 4th gen into the deep 12s with traction. I'd be happy with 260fwhp and lots of torque. The only blown turbo VQs I know of failed because they were either pushing 400fwhp+ or had a fuel issue.
As for the manifolds, bearings, gaskets, cam seal, cam shafts, and piston rods, they're all fine assuming you just want a heathly turbo setup. What's wrong with the bearings, cam seals, and cam shafts? I've never heard of those failing. Lower compression rods and pistons are always good, but what the point unless you're going to rediculous power? Plus, tearing down the motor and putting this stuff in would be astronomical.
Dave
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
WTF? Stronger cams? Cam seals??
Quality turbo kit has more to do with the fitment of the tubes, quality of the welds, choice of parts, design of the system and ease of fitment.
Quality turbo kit has more to do with the fitment of the tubes, quality of the welds, choice of parts, design of the system and ease of fitment.
Uh yeah. Please explain how a turbo system would require you to install stronger cams or stronger cam seals. I await your reply.
Originally Posted by BOSS
Yes buddy, it all adds up at the end...maybe you ought to go read some testimonials of people's turbos on Maximas and other vehicles like say supras go to www.t04r.com. After reading, you will know that even the slightest, simplest, most unrecognizable components make all the difference in the world, like yes - cams and cam seals!
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Originally Posted by Dave B
I've got to disagree with a lot of this. I don't think you've got a 50% chance of blowing your VQ with boost because there are plenty of SC/turbo/nitrous Maximas doing just fine. The trick is you've got to be conservatitve and know WTF you're doing. The VQ will happily hold 300fwhp and that's more than enough to get a 3000lb 4th gen into the deep 12s with traction. I'd be happy with 260fwhp and lots of torque. The only blown turbo VQs I know of failed because they were either pushing 400fwhp+ or had a fuel issue.
As for the manifolds, bearings, gaskets, cam seal, cam shafts, and piston rods, they're all fine assuming you just want a heathly turbo setup. What's wrong with the bearings, cam seals, and cam shafts? I've never heard of those failing. Lower compression rods and pistons are always good, but what the point unless you're going to rediculous power? Plus, tearing down the motor and putting this stuff in would be astronomical.
Dave
As for the manifolds, bearings, gaskets, cam seal, cam shafts, and piston rods, they're all fine assuming you just want a heathly turbo setup. What's wrong with the bearings, cam seals, and cam shafts? I've never heard of those failing. Lower compression rods and pistons are always good, but what the point unless you're going to rediculous power? Plus, tearing down the motor and putting this stuff in would be astronomical.
Dave
The build quality of the kit is a seperate issue from people blowing up their engines. Turbo systems and well as SC systems both feature boost altering mechanisms. If the kit owner decides to up the boost without the appropiate precautions, it's not the kit's quality that's at issue.
Also the reliability of the system is only as strong as the condition of the motor at the time of install. One man's 7-9 psi might last for years and be trouble free. Another man's 9psi might damage the engine after 1,000 miles.
To offer a turbo kit that would make the engine 100% reliable would entail rebuilding the whole engine from stratch. Not only would that add close to $5000 to the already $4,500 kit cost, it would really no longer be a kit. It would be a "project". One that less than 5% of the members could tackle. Installing a basic turbo kit is hard enough.
Also the reliability of the system is only as strong as the condition of the motor at the time of install. One man's 7-9 psi might last for years and be trouble free. Another man's 9psi might damage the engine after 1,000 miles.
To offer a turbo kit that would make the engine 100% reliable would entail rebuilding the whole engine from stratch. Not only would that add close to $5000 to the already $4,500 kit cost, it would really no longer be a kit. It would be a "project". One that less than 5% of the members could tackle. Installing a basic turbo kit is hard enough.
Originally Posted by BOSS
well, when I said 50% I was being sarcastic of course, but generally both sc and tc's for Maximas blow a lot of motors and from what I see it happens frequently. Also, do you really believe that someone with a quality turbo kit is only going to run within say 9psi - the considerable "safe" zone for a stock Maxima motor? Hell no, be real.
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
The build quality of the kit is a seperate issue from people blowing up their engines. Turbo systems and well as SC systems both feature boost altering mechanisms. If the kit owner decides to up the boost without the appropiate precautions, it's not the kit's quality that's at issue.
Also the reliability of the system is only as strong as the condition of the motor at the time of install. One man's 7-9 psi might last for years and be trouble free. Another man's 9psi might damage the engine after 1,000 miles.
To offer a turbo kit that would make the engine 100% reliable would entail rebuilding the whole engine from stratch. Not only would that add close to $5000 to the already $4,500 kit cost, it would really no longer be a kit. It would be a "project". One that less than 5% of the members could tackle. Installing a basic turbo kit is hard enough.
Also the reliability of the system is only as strong as the condition of the motor at the time of install. One man's 7-9 psi might last for years and be trouble free. Another man's 9psi might damage the engine after 1,000 miles.
To offer a turbo kit that would make the engine 100% reliable would entail rebuilding the whole engine from stratch. Not only would that add close to $5000 to the already $4,500 kit cost, it would really no longer be a kit. It would be a "project". One that less than 5% of the members could tackle. Installing a basic turbo kit is hard enough.
It's is very possible to build a quality turbo kit that will be easy to install and fit properly. It will just cost a bit more. That's one issue.
Next is how much boost can an individual run w/o damaging the engine? Can't be answered. One will have to make sure their current engine is in good condition. Then and only then can the kit maker recommend some BASIC safe psi figures. ie.. 7psi w/o ic 9-11 psi w/ ic etc...
I agree, it's difficult to build a turbo kit for an engine that's na to begin with. But it's obviously possible. ie.. honda/acura/subaru/lexus/dodge/ford all have turbo kits available for their na powered cars/trucks.
Can you answer that cam/cam seal question??
Next is how much boost can an individual run w/o damaging the engine? Can't be answered. One will have to make sure their current engine is in good condition. Then and only then can the kit maker recommend some BASIC safe psi figures. ie.. 7psi w/o ic 9-11 psi w/ ic etc...
I agree, it's difficult to build a turbo kit for an engine that's na to begin with. But it's obviously possible. ie.. honda/acura/subaru/lexus/dodge/ford all have turbo kits available for their na powered cars/trucks.
Can you answer that cam/cam seal question??

Originally Posted by BOSS
I agree, somewhat, and that is precisely why I still maintain that it is indeed very difficult, if not nearly impossible often times, to obtain the optimal from a turbo kit, however good, if the car is not inaugurated with a factory turbo to begin with.
One thing ive only seen on one maxima so far is having the inlet-outlet piping coming from one side of the intercooler, if you decide to use one. I would think running both ends of the tubing to the driver side of the car and not running it across the front of the engine would allow it to not get as hot "heat soak".

I dont think I know what Im talking about

I dont think I know what Im talking about
I think jeff what boss is refering to..........is a metal cam seal.............much stronger then a regular one.
.I mean really.............under high boost I blow the regulars out all the time. Perhaps boss you should call up your local mechanic and let him know you blew out your cam seal cause you turboed your car. I would love to hear his response.
I dont think I have ever heard of a cam breaking??? have you jeff.
.I mean really.............under high boost I blow the regulars out all the time. Perhaps boss you should call up your local mechanic and let him know you blew out your cam seal cause you turboed your car. I would love to hear his response.I dont think I have ever heard of a cam breaking??? have you jeff.
haha.
Ironicly I've actually broke two of my cams. But not in the car. I was removing my VTC(varible cam assemblies) off the end of the intake cam and they actually broke in two. Since the cam journals were junk anyway, I didn't care. But it was interesting how little effort it took to break them.
Ironicly I've actually broke two of my cams. But not in the car. I was removing my VTC(varible cam assemblies) off the end of the intake cam and they actually broke in two. Since the cam journals were junk anyway, I didn't care. But it was interesting how little effort it took to break them.
Originally Posted by infinitiblast
I think jeff what boss is refering to..........is a metal cam seal.............much stronger then a regular one.
.I mean really.............under high boost I blow the regulars out all the time. Perhaps boss you should call up your local mechanic and let him know you blew out your cam seal cause you turboed your car. I would love to hear his response.
I dont think I have ever heard of a cam breaking??? have you jeff.
.I mean really.............under high boost I blow the regulars out all the time. Perhaps boss you should call up your local mechanic and let him know you blew out your cam seal cause you turboed your car. I would love to hear his response.I dont think I have ever heard of a cam breaking??? have you jeff.
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
...Can you answer that cam/cam seal question?? 

So, the camshaft uses lobes (called cams) that push against the valves to open them as the camshaft rotates; springs on the valves return them to their closed position. This is a critical job, and can have a great impact on an engine's performance at different speeds. Now all you ppl listen up...this is a lesson! The difference between a performance camshaft like one specifically designed to come with say this quality turbo-kit we're all talking about here and a standard one is huge!!!
These performance camshafts can be adjusted in a way that the stock cams cannot so that they can handle different engine speeds more efficiently! A regular cam and a performance cam have different valve timing. Therefore, the exhaust and intake cycles overlap a lot more on the performance cam needed mostly on boosted vehicles. BTW, the valve overlap is when both the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time.
Anyway, I'm not gonna waste any more time pointing out something like this in more detail, something you obviously have read very little about.
Well okay just for you like an idiot I have to own you
Yes, you are talking about cam lobe profiles. Is this what you were referring to as "stronger cams"??
?? Because stronger cams have NOTHING to do with cams that feature different lobe profiles.
haha!! "performance" cams CANNOT be adjusted any more than a "normal" cam can. Valve timing adjustments done by adjusting the cam timing is done though the use of ADJUSTABLE CAM GEARS. Now you can grind cams to open/close the valves at different times but once they are ground, they are not anymore futher adjustable than a stock cam.
And to add, custom cam grinds aren't really necessary for a turbo VQ30 anyway. You will need to upgrade the engine's internals before you run out of cam on these engines.
And cam seals?? Wanna try for that one now??
Originally Posted by BOSS
So, the camshaft uses lobes (called cams) that push against the valves to open them as the camshaft rotates; springs on the valves return them to their closed position. This is a critical job, and can have a great impact on an engine's performance at different speeds. Now all you ppl listen up...this is a lesson! The difference between a performance camshaft like one specifically designed to come with say this quality turbo-kit we're all talking about here and a standard one is huge!!!
?? Because stronger cams have NOTHING to do with cams that feature different lobe profiles.
These performance camshafts can be adjusted in a way that the stock cams cannot so that they can handle different engine speeds more efficiently! A regular cam and a performance cam have different valve timing. Therefore, the exhaust and intake cycles overlap a lot more on the performance cam. BTW, the valve overlap is when both the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time.
And to add, custom cam grinds aren't really necessary for a turbo VQ30 anyway. You will need to upgrade the engine's internals before you run out of cam on these engines.
And cam seals?? Wanna try for that one now??
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Well okay just for you like an idiot I have to own you
Yes, you are talking about cam lobe profiles. Is this what you were referring to as "stronger cams"??
?? Because stronger cams have NOTHING to do with cams that feature different lobe profiles.
haha!! "performance" cams CANNOT be adjusted any more than a "normal" cam can. Valve timing adjustments done by adjusting the cam timing is done though the use of ADJUSTABLE CAM GEARS. Now you can grind cams to open/close the valves at different times but once they are ground, they are not anymore futher adjustable than a stock cam.
And to add, custom cam grinds aren't really necessary for a turbo VQ30 anyway. You will need to upgrade the engine's internals before you run out of cam on these engines.
And cam seals?? Wanna try for that one now??
Yes, you are talking about cam lobe profiles. Is this what you were referring to as "stronger cams"??
?? Because stronger cams have NOTHING to do with cams that feature different lobe profiles.
haha!! "performance" cams CANNOT be adjusted any more than a "normal" cam can. Valve timing adjustments done by adjusting the cam timing is done though the use of ADJUSTABLE CAM GEARS. Now you can grind cams to open/close the valves at different times but once they are ground, they are not anymore futher adjustable than a stock cam.
And to add, custom cam grinds aren't really necessary for a turbo VQ30 anyway. You will need to upgrade the engine's internals before you run out of cam on these engines.
And cam seals?? Wanna try for that one now??

No. Why don't you reply to me here? Because you can't. All you said in the beginning was "stonger cams" right?? WTF are stronger cams????? 
I know how a camshaft works newbie. It's you that doesn't understand how they work and the terminology that goes with it.
Cams with different lobe profiles are neither "stronger" or "weaker". It's a completly incorrect way of describing cams and how they work. Keep reading. You are on your way young jedi.
Now for that cam SEAL thing???

I know how a camshaft works newbie. It's you that doesn't understand how they work and the terminology that goes with it.
Cams with different lobe profiles are neither "stronger" or "weaker". It's a completly incorrect way of describing cams and how they work. Keep reading. You are on your way young jedi.
Now for that cam SEAL thing???

Originally Posted by BOSS
Dude you are a moron, just sit down and say nothing more...you were completely owned, go to t04.com and say something this stupid and you will see how badly you will get ripped on. Anyway, the key parts of any camshaft, which I am referring to, are the lobes. As the camshaft spins, the lobes open and close the intake and exhaust valves in time with the motion of the piston. It turns out that there is a direct relationship between the shape of the cam lobes and the way the engine performs in different speed ranges.
BTW. If you are so smart now, please explain why a stock VQ30 running relatively low boost can justify a set of cams costing about 2 grand. And why these cams are SO necessary when the stock VQ pistons appear to be the weakest link in the deal anyway? I await your reply.
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
No. Why don't you reply to me here? Because you can't. All you said in the beginning was "stonger cams" right?? WTF are stronger cams????? 
I know how a camshaft works newbie. It's you that doesn't understand how they work and the terminology that goes with it.
Cams with different lobe profiles are neither "stronger" or "weaker". It's a completly incorrect way of describing cams and how they work. Keep reading. You are on your way young jedi.
Now for that cam SEAL thing???

I know how a camshaft works newbie. It's you that doesn't understand how they work and the terminology that goes with it.
Cams with different lobe profiles are neither "stronger" or "weaker". It's a completly incorrect way of describing cams and how they work. Keep reading. You are on your way young jedi.
Now for that cam SEAL thing???

stonger cam seal. Still haven't gotten to that one yet huh?? Waiting for your godly reply. 
Wait. You said stonger manifolds too!

Originally Posted by BOSS
You are the only noob here. Look again at the 2nd post in this thread; you are simply extremely unintelligent. It's ppl like you that make me want to regurgitate. I said "stronger cam seal, camshafts" not just cams. Your stupidity and lack of knowledge will be a big disappointment down the road, if it is not already.
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
stonger cam seal. Still haven't gotten to that one yet huh?? Waiting for your godly reply. 
Wait. You said stonger manifolds too!

And obviously by stronger manifold I mean a superior design of it as compared to the stock, which may be good to begin with like dave b said, but it's a matter of opinion because neither I nor you can possibly predict the results and performance of such "stronger" manifold.
Originally Posted by BOSS
you freakin noob, once again the camshaft uses lobes that push against the valves to open them as the camshaft rotates; springs on the valves return them to their closed position. A cam seal is located under the cam position sensor at the end of the exhaust cam and a poor cam seal (hence not a "performance" one) can very easily cause a leak in a boosted vehicle. Read about it on other turbo forums you bozo and you will find many people with boosted vehicles having trouble with this!
And obviously by stronger manifold I mean a superior design of it as compared to the stock, which may be good to begin with like dave b said, but it's a matter of opinion because neither I nor you can possibly predict the results and performance of such "stronger" manifold.
Who's the noobie now?
How about quitting cut/pasting and put your own newbie comments in?
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