What sound does a failing CV joint or front axle make?
02-11-2004, 10:54 AM
#1
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What sound does a failing CV joint or front axle make?
What sound does a failing CV joint or front axle make?
Trying to diagnose the sound that is coming from the front end of a car that I am currently driving.
I do not know if it is tranny, CV joints, or the axle.
The car seems to shift just like normal, BUT when all warmed up, some of the "P to R" or "P to D" or "R to D" selections have a little extra noise to them.
Also, there is a slight sound from the front driver's side at certain times- as power is applied or released, for instance.
Trying to diagnose the sound that is coming from the front end of a car that I am currently driving.
I do not know if it is tranny, CV joints, or the axle.
The car seems to shift just like normal, BUT when all warmed up, some of the "P to R" or "P to D" or "R to D" selections have a little extra noise to them.
Also, there is a slight sound from the front driver's side at certain times- as power is applied or released, for instance.
02-11-2004, 11:32 AM
#2
I don't know about the others, but when I have had some trouble with CV joints in the past on other cars, it is kind of a popping noise...esp. when turning. (the wheel bearings make a similar noise when one gets out of place.)
02-11-2004, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by gabex
actually.. they can. my inner and outer joints were bad on BOTH sides of the car (dont ask). there would be noise when i was driving straight, and it got worse when i turned. replaced both with Raxles.com
How much stronger are raxles over OEM ones? And how much did they run?
Eric
02-11-2004, 12:11 PM
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Okay, so it is not the CV joints, most likely.
Maybe the tranny as a whole...it sounds somewhat like a lathe or a metal on metal sound, but the tranny fliud is fine (level and color). I do not knwo what it is, but i am glad that i will not be driving it too long...I don't want to get stranded.
Maybe the tranny as a whole...it sounds somewhat like a lathe or a metal on metal sound, but the tranny fliud is fine (level and color). I do not knwo what it is, but i am glad that i will not be driving it too long...I don't want to get stranded.
02-12-2004, 12:18 AM
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do you hear any clicking or popping sound when turing? specially at slow speeds......i.e. trying to turn into a parking spot. if you do, then its a broken wheel bearing. but if you hear clicking sounds turning into a street at normal speed......its the CV boot/joint
02-12-2004, 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by -=PK=-Maxima
do you hear any clicking or popping sound when turing? specially at slow speeds......i.e. trying to turn into a parking spot. if you do, then its a broken wheel bearing. but if you hear clicking sounds turning into a street at normal speed......its the CV boot/joint
I am having it checked out today.
Could it have a busted tranny mount that results in bad drivetrain alignment as momentium is shifted by application or removal of force (when I modulate the throttle)?
02-12-2004, 09:25 AM
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I am going through a wheel bearing replacement at the moment....trying to do it myself. My symptoms were a very subtle clunking sound when giving a little bit of gasfor a second at low rpms and low speed. I though it was a bad tranny mount that was causing my drive train to be sloppy but I never really inspected the mounts. I just figured I would replace it when it warmed up and before I went to the track. After a few weeks I started to get an odd sound comming from the front left wheel. I only made the noise when comming to a stop, the noise was tire rotation dependant (kinda like when a nail is stuck in the tire). So that made me think it was an axel problem of some sort or maybe the CV.
Took the car to my regualr mechanic to get a diagnosis. Mounts check out OK (not ripped or obvious problem) and all front end parts looked good. The thought it was most likely the wheel bearing....and that would explain the rotation dependant noise. I was also told that the bearing had gone bad enough to cause a little bit of play and that could cause the clunking. I was quoted $275 for labor and parts.
I decided to do it myself, or at least most of it. I bought the parts which saved me money then removed the whole entire steering knuckle and hub from the car which saved me labor. I took the the hub and knuckle to a shop to press the bearings for me which is something that should probably be done by a mechanic who has the right tools. Even the Haynes manuel recomends having a shop do the bearings so they don't even give instructions on how to do it.
I will be picking up the HUB with the new bearings this afternoon. I won't know if it was the bearings for sure until I see the old ones. That is the thing about the wheel bearings, you can't really check them. You just have to narrow it down and hope after all the labor that it is the bearings indeed. It has cost me $80 uin parts (2 seals and new bearings) $50 in tools ( I needed large sockets anyhow. 36mm is needed and a ball joint seperator) I don't know what the charge will be from the mechanic to press the bearings but it's like a 15 minute job so it can't be much. Hopefully this will take car of my problem which happens to sound like yours.
If you check out www.motorvate.ca he has good how2 for wheel bearing replacement. I followed his instructions except for the actual bearing replacement and use a Haynes for the rest.
Took the car to my regualr mechanic to get a diagnosis. Mounts check out OK (not ripped or obvious problem) and all front end parts looked good. The thought it was most likely the wheel bearing....and that would explain the rotation dependant noise. I was also told that the bearing had gone bad enough to cause a little bit of play and that could cause the clunking. I was quoted $275 for labor and parts.
I decided to do it myself, or at least most of it. I bought the parts which saved me money then removed the whole entire steering knuckle and hub from the car which saved me labor. I took the the hub and knuckle to a shop to press the bearings for me which is something that should probably be done by a mechanic who has the right tools. Even the Haynes manuel recomends having a shop do the bearings so they don't even give instructions on how to do it.
I will be picking up the HUB with the new bearings this afternoon. I won't know if it was the bearings for sure until I see the old ones. That is the thing about the wheel bearings, you can't really check them. You just have to narrow it down and hope after all the labor that it is the bearings indeed. It has cost me $80 uin parts (2 seals and new bearings) $50 in tools ( I needed large sockets anyhow. 36mm is needed and a ball joint seperator) I don't know what the charge will be from the mechanic to press the bearings but it's like a 15 minute job so it can't be much. Hopefully this will take car of my problem which happens to sound like yours.
If you check out www.motorvate.ca he has good how2 for wheel bearing replacement. I followed his instructions except for the actual bearing replacement and use a Haynes for the rest.
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