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Going to the track again!!!

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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 09:32 PM
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Going to the track again!!!

Alright well, I'm going to the Track Friday, my best time stock was 16.1 all with just a cone filter. This Friday I'm going back with some new sh*t, WS y-pipes, custom b-pipe, UR UDP. Time to shut up the announcer, I didnt know til now that when I raced a malibu the announcer said, "Oh, lets see who can take little Timmy to soccer pratice the fastest." So hopefully I can hit like a 15.4 or lower, I'm planning on hopefully doing the following tomorrow... but I need your input

Oil change: What brand? (I got 143,000miles)
Spark Plugs: NGK coppers
Fuel Injector Cleaner: What Brand?
Anything else??

At the track I plan to get there early, park the car, open the hood and place a bag of ice on the engine, let it cool for a while, before I run. On my first run, I plan to take everything out (floor mats, spare tire, odds and ends.....) turn off the radio, etc... is there anything else your guys recommend??

Should I upshift or the drop resistor mod??? Upshifting if I go that route will be from 2 to D, what else should I add to the car soon, to hopefully hit high 14's ???? Peace
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 10:38 PM
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my car ran 15.2 stock tonight!!!
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 08:58 PM
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anyone?????
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 09:02 PM
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use the DR mod for shure...its your only chance...look into buying a high performance VB if you like the hard shifting but not killling your tranny. unfortunatly your at the point alot of people are...all the next 'go fast' mods are expensive...mevi + ecu....would be the best route. i'm sure you would hit somewhere in the 14's with that...


oh ya

fij: all about the same imo...i guess STP cuz thats what i'v used a few times...

oil: i have the same miles as you almost. i just do lots of regular oil changes and don't use anything super fancy....

sparks: NGK are the shizzle...
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 09:04 PM
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get NGK copper, fuel injector doesn't do $hit (all the nissan technicians at my work tell me that), your car is kind of slow 16.1 almost stock, my car stock could run 15.6-7 at least because I beat cars that ran 15.7s at the track. Check KS sensor maybe it's tripping a ghost code.

Don't do drop resistor I much rather go slower then leave my tranny behind. If you are going to put a bag of ice on the engine put it on the intake matifold to keep it from getting more heatsoaked, check your tire pressure, turn off the A/C.
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 09:05 PM
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wahts the drop resistor mod?
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 09:08 PM
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Allows the auto tranny shift faster but unlike VB mod is really bad for you tranny. Makes a horrible stress on the tranny.
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 09:09 PM
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so how is this DR method done?
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 09:12 PM
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Yeah, the VB mod, is something I'm thinking about getting if I stick with the auto, ECU of course, and a decent CAI, I have gotten the CEL codes, every now and then, and they do go on and off. I havent checked the codes, but a friend of mine did mention that the car seemed slower (we have the same mods), that it would cut off at a certain rpm level. He said something about my oxygen sensor cutting off sooner cause its gone bad, well I'll have to check that.
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 09:15 PM
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how does the DR mod work?
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 09:17 PM
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Wait, you're gonna run the car without it being warmed up? You're not supposed to do that. I don't think you're supposed to drive the car hard unless the temp gauge needle is in the middle.
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 09:22 PM
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the dr works by increasin the tranny fluid pressure which makes it shift wikkid hard....horrible on your tranny but if your doing it only a few times at the trak you should be ok...
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 09:27 PM
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You can drive car hard as long as your oil is warm, it doesn't matter how cold your intake matifold is. As long as it's just past the start mark it's already fully warmed up.
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Big D
Wait, you're gonna run the car without it being warmed up? You're not supposed to do that. I don't think you're supposed to drive the car hard unless the temp gauge needle is in the middle.
Im sure he's gonna let it warm up...Just not to the point where it heat-soaks...
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 09:48 PM
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Better tires
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 09:51 PM
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Us autos don't spin the tires too much
We are pretty close to good launch, unless you got major power you won't need new tires
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 10:18 PM
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so is the DR mod bad if you have that WOT switch? also, would be something id be able to use racing someone or timing my car, then just go back to being normal?
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 10:20 PM
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I mean WOT switch is pretty much the same as unpluging it everytime you race. I still think that it's really bad idea, I wouldn't risk it no matter how much I wonna drop my times.
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 10:22 PM
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so how do you unplug it? in the how to mods, it says to cut the wires to hook them up to a switch...any way i can do this maybe once or twice, and leave it back to normal?
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 10:50 PM
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you will still end up with a CEL that u need to reset every time you unplug it.
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 11:13 PM
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thats fine...but how do you unplug the resistor? is it actually just a plug i can unplug, and leave out until im done, then plug back in?
Old Feb 19, 2004 | 11:28 PM
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yes its a plug you can take off and put back on look on your drivers side shock tower above your intake filter, theres a resister about 4 inches long bolted on the car and it has a silver aluminum shield around it with some words, theres the plug(2 wires). you can cut one wire and wire a switch to it to turn it on and off
Old Feb 20, 2004 | 06:51 AM
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so does it matter which wire i cut? i read the instructions on the DR mod, but it doesnt say how to install the on/off switch. only to have it at WOT. what type of switch would i need to have it in my cabin so i just flip it on and off? also, when you say to hook it up to a switch, does that mean just hook the wire from the resistor to the power on the switch, and then just ground it out?
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