My service engine soon light came on and i got the following codes 0309 ( evap canister vent conrtol valve open) and 0705 (evap control system leak). anyone else ever get the same codes??? i dont even know where to look and try and see if a valve is stuck open. can anyone explain where this thing is located? help.. im lost... thanks

 

Replace your evap canister vent conrtol valve . I believe It is located drivers rear.

 

is this something that i would be able to do myself? the nissan dealer quoted me like 67.00 for the control valve...and like 1-2 hrs labor...which seemed steep to me.

 

You should be able to do it yourself, i watch my mechanic do it in about 1/2 half, and thats with taking time to get the rusted bolts off. You should be able to do it yourself in way under 2 hours. Best thing i can do, is try to get information on how to remove it again from my work. I have a program called "all data" where it tells you have to remove it etc ... Or you might want to looking in your manual, it may be in there, if not get a chiltons or haynes manual to check in there. If you need me to get info from my stealership for you , I will do what i can.

Good Luck

 

I had the same problem on my '98. I just replaced the charcoal evap canister and the evap vent control valve. Nissan recomends changing the evap canister if it weighs 4 pounds or more, which it did.

It took me about 30 mins to change the canister and the valve (about $100 dollars for the parts). Theres a few 10mm bolts and some clamped hoses, a pretty easy and straight foward fix. If there charging you two hours for labor that's a total rip off.

 

Amen, good description.

 

thanx guys. any write-ups would be greatly appreciated. I know they are gonna try and charge me like 250 for just replacing the control valve and almost 400+ to replace both the canister and control valve. So if it is pretty simple to replace then i believe that i could do it myself and just pay for parts. I bought a haynes manual and it just shows a pic of the canister and says to raise the vehicle , label and detch all vaccuum lines from the canister and remove it....and installation is the reverse of removal.

 

the haynes manual is correct, thats all thats into it.

 

thanks man, i bought the control valve today from a stealership for like 32 bucks, im going to try and replace it this weekend in my garage (along with new ngk spark plugs). The stealership didnt have a canister in stock, so i dont know if i should wait and replace it. Like i said before, any more info would be appreciated, but it seems to be a pretty simple procedure. If anyone has a write-up send it to bcb152@comcast.net Thanks again

 

FYI my vent control valve was stuck in the canister. The bolts holding the valve in were messed up and wouldn't give. I tried several things to get the valve out but it didn't help. I just waited for the dealership to get the canister in stock. It takes a while because its a high demand part that dealerships replace alot. The new canister and valve were installed in about 30 mins. Also I didn't have to jack the rear of the car up, the canister and valve are easy to get at.

 

I had my evap canister replaced about a month ago at the dealership also. The technician noted on the write-up that the bolts were rusted on, and he had to use a torch or something to get it off. That's definitely not something I want to tackle on my own, especially since I don't have a torch.

 

i went to another dealership farther away and got the canister for 50 bucks along with the 32 dollar check valve....im gonna attempt it this weekend ..wish me luck....already did new spark plugs today and that went fine....i just cant wait to fix this stuff...cus my car feels slow as *****......and i just replaced knock sensor a few months ago

 

bought the parts, did the job in like 45 mins since i took my time. it was probably the easiest thing i have ever done to my car. it feels like it is running much better now...i will have to see again today... but anyway...thanks again to the people who posted...

 

good to see u took care of it. I have same issue (0705 code) and i am going to order parts from JRNIssan and see if i can be as lucky as u guys.

 

GUYS, WORD OF CAUTION....
It is practically impossible to get the valve off the canister without killing the canister....The bolts are one way only. First time around I messed mine up and had to get a new canister. Best deal is to get both together and put the new valve in the new canister, Or get one from a junk yard.

I have one that I would be willing to part with. It was the new ones I put on my car for a year. Then I got the code again and replaced it a second time, But I am still getting the code occasionally and I am pretty sure It is not the Canister or valve. I have a small dent around my Gas filler neck and Im pretty sure that is what is tripping the code when I dont get it seated properly.
ANYWAY....
If anyone is interested in a complete Canister PM me. Then all you have to do is just replace it with the old one.....takes 10 min....30 if the bolts are rusty.

AUS

 

I had the same codes and went to the dealership and had it looked at they tested everything. They said everything was fine, they told me that my gas cap wasnt sealing correctly. So I got a new one and haven't had the CEL light come back on. It's been like 6 months now.