Tort

Just exactly how difficult/time consuming is it to drop the tranny? I've done minor work to my car myself (CV Axles, Strut/Springs, Y-Pipe, Cat-Back) and am contemplating getting Flywheel or MEVI. I'm leaning towards the flywheel since I also have a leak in my rear engine seal. Also wondering if anyone has replaced that? I would like to do the work myself so input/suggestions would be helpful. From what I have read it doesnt seem too difficult but then nothing ever does on paper really

sryth

It's not very difficult if you're patient. I'd say it's more frustrating than difficult.

Make sure you have all the right tools, though; there's nothing more frustrating than having to turn around and go back to the store you just came from because you forgot something else.

Never did the oil seal, can't help you there.

xsnowpig

iTrader: (1)

I agree that it's not technically difficult, you just need to take your time if you've never done it before. There are some steps that you may work around. In the haynes book, the process tells you to remove the engine mounts, and support the engine while you remove the bell housing. I couldnt get the mounts off without an impact wrench, so i just skipped that step and managed to remove the bell housing bolts in the resulting tight spaces. Definitely rent/borrow a tranny jack is my personal advice. I know motorvate.ca says that he just laid it on his chest as he removed the tranny, but with the jack stands i was using, that wasnt an easy option.
good luck! you can do it if you've got some basic wrenching skills.

sryth

Yeah...either he's really strong, or I'm really weak; there's no way in hell I could push that tranny into place with my arms.

A tranny jack will definitely help you. I personally do it ghetto-style: A 2x4 across the the hood with a tie-down strap around it and the tranny.

Next time I think I'll rent either a tranny jack or an engine hoist.

Tort

What did you guys use to hold up the engine while the tranny was out?

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

To support the engine you can use a regular jack or the stock scissors jack (won't sag like the pneumatics) with a 2'x4' block of wood underneath the oil pan.

BTW, Harbor Freight has a decent tranny jack for $50 on sale. You can also get it on ebay for $40 + $15 s/h.

I'm getting ready to do a tranny swap/clutch change this week.

Can someone help me with a question?
Q: Is it really necessary to drop the Y-pipe (and if so, why)? I really don't want to do it if I can possibly avoid it. Those exhaust bolts are damned rusty!

SpeedCrazie

iTrader: (81)

Yeah, that is the same one I purchased to do my Conversion came in very handy!

JP

maxima98vspec

i dropped, rebuilt and put back a maxima tranny with in a day's work. but it all depends on if u know what ur doing?

maxima98vspec

well it would be kind of difficult taking off the center beam because of the rear engine mount, the bolt that connect the y pipe to the hearders do look rusy but shouldn't be hard taking off......unless u were scuba diving in the salt lake.....

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

The 5spd is only around 30-40lbs, it's not that heavy.

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

??? The transmission is closer to 110lbs. Lying on your back makes it that much harder to manipulate.

maxima98vspec

im thinking its more....

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

No the 5spd is around that, the auto is aound 110 or more.

trinity000

I currently have mine out as i am rebuilding the front end... (my tranny had the usual bearing problems so while under there i replaced control arm bushings....well everything! tie rods, wheel bearings, axles, endlinks, motor mounts etc...

The tranny isn't that heavy it is about 50-55lbs. i also didn't remove the main engine support (crossmember) i just didn't see a need to. As long as you can get the front of the car to the full height of an average set of car jacks you will be fine.

BTW total dismantal time using no air tools 3hrs if you live in the north dealing with rust. That is to take everything necc out to get the tranny out as well as the tranny, clutch, and flywheel.

If you want some pics i haven't put my tranny back in yet (Sunday it is going in) so i can send you some pics if you need.

Here are some to chk out the amount of ground clearance needed. (i have all 4 wheels off the ground since i am doing exhaust as well:

http://members.***.net/trinity000/car1.jpg
http://members.***.net/trinity000/car2.jpg
http://members.***.net/trinity000/car3.jpg

sryth

The tranny is definitely over 100lbs. The motorvate site states that it was 107lbs (they weighed it).

As for how to hold the engine up, I never removed the center crossmember (or the ypipe), so I just kept a jack on the center crossmember. That held the engine in place...and also allowed me to slowly lower the jack a little to clear the transmission through the wheel well.

trinity000

NO WAY!!! i only was 120 lbs i am 19 years old and just over 5'2" and i can pick it up with ONE hand! Ask Baller or Patrick93se they know me personally

sryth

All I'm saying is:

My tranny is over 100lbs. The motorvate.ca guy's tranny is 107 according to his scale. My brothers, both of whom helped me get the thing in at different times both say it's over 100 lbs.

Maybe I'm wrong and my brothers are wrong and the motorvate guy's scale is wrong. Could be

Maybe you're stronger than you think. Maybe you have a freakish super-light transmission.

My daughter weighs 42 lbs (just went to the doctor) and my tranny is much heavier than she.

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

Fedex listed my tranny, axle and wood crate platform as 135lbs. 40lbs is way low for an estimate. I do biceps curls with 40lbs. No way I can do that with a tranny. My nephew is about 50lbs and I can easily lift him above my head. No way I can do that with this tranny. Sure, anyone can lift the tranny and move it...that is easily done with anything less than 150lbs and reasonably small.

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

Sryth,
That method would save me a ton of time! So you loosened the two front and two back bolts securing the crossmember but left the motor mounts attached? I would definitely rather jack the crossmember than the engine.

skeelo34

iTrader: (4)

I didnt even toucht he crossmember at all. No need unless you are auto. The 5spd tranny is fairly small and will come out fairly easily without lowering the engine. Just make sure you have the car high enough on your jackstands to clear the wheel well. It is about 110 lbs, and if anyoen wants to argue about it, come over my house and play around with my spare tranny. If you can bench press 150 a few times, you'll be fine lowring the tranny on your chest.

Tort

I agree with the tranny being around 100 pounds, I had mine replaced about two years ago and took the old one back.

Any special tools needed to remove the clutch/flywheel from the tranny?

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

Air impact wrench: flywheel bolts are very tight.

Sryth, Skeelo34, Trinity,
Man, you guys saved me a ton of time! THANKS. Justed dropped the tranny this afternoon without touching the Y-pipe or the crossmember. Made the goings a lot quicker and safer. My only snag was the passenger side axle--the support bracket seemed fused to the axle counterpart. I had to use a chisel to make a sliver then pry'd them apart.

Here's a pic of the Harbor Freight jack in action. Note the crossmember.


Will install tranny as soon as my clutch gets here! FYI, 2000-2001 5th gen transmission (non-locking) looks identical to the 4th gen one (non-locking). I managed to find one with only 12000 miles so hopefully the differential bearings will be good for quite a while.

ABK

hey you guys wonna an easy way to drop your tranny? When I do engine swaps on four bangers, I first get rid of all the **** that might not allow the engine and the tranny to come out, take off the rims, axles, and so on. you place a 2X4 under the motor and the tranny and lower the car onto it's rotors. then disconnect all the wire harnesses and engine mounts and jack up the car as high as it can go, and you should be able to slide the motor and the tranny right from underneath of the car.

If I can do tranny and the motor (4banger) that weight like at least 250 pounds without using a tranny jack or something else, you can pull the tranny the same way, except you will have to support the motor when you pull the car back up. I believe I could do this in less then 4 hours.

BTW I never seen maxima clutch or flywheel on the car so my guess is that they are held by 12 point bolts, and you will need some 12 point sockets and a 2 breaker bars (one to take off clutch/fleewheel) another one to hold the crank in place from the other side by somebody.

sryth

Glad to hear it! I assume you disconnected the tranny from the mount? Otherwise I can't see how you cleared it. Mine wouldn't go unless I lowered the crossmember slightly.

What do you mean about the axle bracket? You mean the bracket fused to the block?

sryth

Out of curiosity...when you pulled the axles, did you disconnect the tierod end?

I see you left the balljoint, and disconnected at the strut. Someone told me a while back that they didn't have to disconnect the tierod. I always do as a precaution; I just wanted to see what others are doing.

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

No. I just tilt the knuckle down and back. The axle comes out pretty painlessly. You just have to watch that the outer boot doesn't get cut by the bottom of the strut.
Yeah, I had to undo the mount from the car and the tranny.

The passenger side axle has a support bracket end that is held in by 3 bolts. AFter undoing the bolts, it still wouldn't budge. It was somewhat fused to the support bracket because of rust.

Looking at the clutch side a little closer, it is apparent to me that my rear main seal is leaking--no wonder my oil consumption had been high the last year or two! Looks like I'll have to pic up one--not cheap at $40.

Tort

Mine is leaking too and has been for about a year or two. Do you think I will need a new clutch because of the oil leaking on to it? My clutch feels fine and only has about 60,000 miles on it. I don't wanna get my tranny and clutch apart to replace flywheel and seal and find that I also need a new clutch and need to wait on parts.

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

You definitely want to get a new clutch. Anytime you go through the trouble of dropping the tranny, you want replace the clutch unless it is totally new or nearly new (<12k miles). I have 100k miles on mine and grabs strong...the oil leak hasn't contaminated it too bad. STill some people have clutches last only 60,000 so you really never know how many miles are left on it. You can buy an Exedy OEM replacement for about $130 or get their ACT-like organic racing kit for $230. Order it NOW.

Tort

Any other recommendations of things to do while I'm down there? (just did driveaxles recently)

maxima98vspec

there are 8 bolts holding the flywheel on the crank shaft and the pressure plate is being held by 6 bolts i think bolted to the flywheel....

Tort

does everyone else agree with mishmosh that I should get a clutch even if nothing is wrong with mine? I had a kevlar disc clutch installed about 60,000 miles ago and it seems fine

sryth

Tort: I agree with Mishmosh. Replace the clutch...especially if you think there may be oil on it.