MaxInProgress

iTrader: (2)

How much hp loss am i looking at with 18 inch wheels? An estimate would be ok if no one knows.

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

You need to tell us how much they weigh with tires and how much your previous wheels and tires weigh

Brudaddy

iTrader: (2)

Unless the wheels are pretty light, you will loose a good bit.

Generally speaking, every 1lb. that the wheels have to turn(times 4 of course), translates into 10 lbs. in the cabin. If you have wheels that weigh say 10lbs. heavier each than mine, is it like I have 400 lbs. fewer in my car than yours.

Frank Fontaine

Practically speaking, none. I've had 18's for 2 years and my car doesn't feel as if it has lost hp. In theory, a $400 18" rim is not optimal, certainly not for a Maxima. But it looks good and will definitely have a stiffer contact patch since the rim is 8" wide. The Maxima is such a poor handling car that you really can't harm the handling. Ditto with the 350Z, every car mag says very harsh ride and not agile. So what are you really gonna hurt by doing a +1? Besides, a 2k4 has 18's standard. It's not gonna feel more powerful by putting on a 14" rim.

Long story short, no need to overanalyze the 18 myth. It's a looks thing.

mansurxk

iTrader: (14)

sure it will, go read the articles in shoptalk on the mainpage on the org, itll tell you that the fastest maxima is the 4th gen with sawblades, and the slowest of the pack is the 5th gen with 17" titanium SE's, your adding so much inertial mass to it it has to make a difference while your accelerating, its different while your already in movement, because the force of kinetic friction is much lower thant he force of static friction (pre-launch) there are a few peole who went back to stock for one reason or antoher from 17's to 15's or wahtever, and the first thing they felt was that their cars were noticeably quicker.

99maxse5-speed

i agree there ! when i had my old 18" 235/40 setup then went back to my stock 16" 50/225 , my max felt a bit quicker with the stock wheels. literally lay rubber in second. but the 18" `s look really good though. its what do u prefer? show or go... i just cant image people on 19"`s or 20"`s on their maxima`s. that really must be a hinderness.

Brudaddy

iTrader: (2)

Again, Read post #3. The example I gave, everyone can relate to.

BTW....it is not Grey, it is Sterling Mist.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

You lose ZERO hp with 18" rims. What happens is that the car weighs more (unsprung weight, that is), and you go slower.

You do not actually lose HP. Wheels have no effect on engine output.

And as far as stock rims, the 15" BBS rims on the i30t are way lighter than the sawblades.

"t" rims OWN!

dizmax96

iTrader: (2)

get lightweight 18s.. then you dont have to worry..

d_warner

What he said. You don't loose HP. You loose efficiency. Get some SSR Competitions, or some Volks, Heck, any good quality forged Aluminum rim will suffice.

maxspeed96CT

iTrader: (9)

The hp loss inst that much,i cant agree with what it says above in post 3. i have 19s that weight about 55lbs with tires and the stock 2k2 rims weight 50 with tires and the stock 16 weight probubly another 5 lbs less.

So that would mean my car is as if it has 500lbs more in the car, thats impossible. My cars doesnt even feel anyslower and i have raced a few of my friends that i raced before and it still got the same results .

99maxse5-speed

well on my invoice it says grey! but ill call it sterling mist just for you !


btw my 17" weigh about 42/43 pounds with tires. is that reasonable or not for that size?

Brudaddy

iTrader: (2)

With tires, I think it is.
Stock on the 4th gen are 19.6 lbs. w/o tires. I would want to get 17" that are even lighten than the stockies, if I replaced the wheels. I don't know how much the tires weigh, though. It would just be a guess of mine.

How much did each wheel cost?

Brudaddy

iTrader: (2)

It depends....actually you would be carrying approx. 400lbs. extra in the cabin, or it is like that. (10lbs. each wheel x 4 wheels = 40lbs. in extra wheel weight x 10(lbs. in cabin per 1 pound of wheel) = 400lbs. extra in the cabin. That is the math.

You are just not noticing then, because you will be slower. It may not feel like it is pulling less, because it prolly isn't. Like Phenryiv1 and others said, you don't actually lose hp, you just gain a lot of weight. It goes back to the weight savings thing....people take their seats etc. out of their max's to make them faster. They don't gain any hp, just save in weight.

Also, I didn't say that you would be slower all around. 0-60 should be slower, but higher speeds will probably be faster. When you get all that weight going, the larger wheels give you a better upper end speed.

Brudaddy

iTrader: (2)

Also, you don't have to get some really expensive wheels like Volk. You can get some made my Rota. They are pretty much knock offs, but some of them look pretty good, and fit our cars.
Subzero......17".......only weigh like 16-17lbs. You could get 18" for the same as the stock wheels.
Slipstream are good too.
You can get them for cheap on ebay(most you see are for 4-lug, but you can email the seller and ask for 5-lug), or you can get them here new at www.jaydm.com

Try it out...

Dave B

You don't loose HP from the engine, but there is definately more drivetrain loss therefore you do loose power that makes it ultimately to the wheels (ie wheel hp/tq). Requin6 has a dyno showing the difference between running the 15" sawblades (~43lbs combo) vs running the 17" OEM 2k+ rims (~53lbs combo). The difference on the dyno is about 5-6fwhp/tq across the powerband. That loss of power equates to about a .1-.15 seconds and 2mph slower car because power is lost across the entire powerband.

My 17" combo is actually lighter than my 15" sawblade combo, but my car is quite a bit more athletic with the 15s. The car is simply more responsive to throttle inputs. The reason is the 15" rubber is slight narrower and more of the mass of the tire/wheel combo is centralized around the hub. 15s have less inertia to spin than larger rim even if the weight is the same or less. At the track, my ETs don't change much (less than 0.05 seconds) with my light 17s, but my trap speeds are 1 to 1.5mph slower due to the extra drag of the wider tire.

A 4th gen with normal weight 18s (~48-55lb combo) will probably suck out close to .2 and 2.5mph with most of the loss of acceleration occuring from 0-70mph.


Dave

Frank Fontaine

This thread reminds me of Brett Favre playing Monday morning QB!

Everybody now has an engineering degree and can outdesign what came from the factory, ie 18's on the 2k4. Again, imho Maxima is a sedan and going 18's is a looks thing. When you get down to it a 97-99 GXE with 205/65-15 and steelies handles about the same as a SE with a 16x6.5 star rim and 215/55-16's. The car is not gonna handle like an Acura no matter what rims it has, so there's nothing wrong with making a Maxima look more stylish by getting aftermarket rims. Nobody is saying unsprung weight is a good thing, but at the same time, we're talking about a Maxima.

Brudaddy

iTrader: (2)

That is what this whole site is about, tapping into more power and handling of your maxima.

Go back into the hole from which your crawled, Frank Fontaine.

maxspeed96CT

iTrader: (9)

what are you talking about handle like a acura, i hope your talking about the nsx cause otherwise acuras dont handle all that great. Now with my front strut bar, rear sway bar and maxspeed gr-2 combo, the only thing keeping me back on turns is tires.


and who ever said the thing about bigger rims making top better is this tru?? i never thought about that.

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

Well then whoever you bought the car from is more illiterate than you since GREY isn't a color. It's GRAY. Grammar class over.

Posted by dizmax96 - Today at 12:53 PM

Wanna bet? If our cars are identical in weight and every single aspect but I have 15" wheels while he has 18" wheels and my car will still be faster.

mansurxk

iTrader: (14)

hes right, the more you increase wheel radius the greater the momentum, not only is mass responsible but so is wheel radius of waht we consider a circular disk 1/2mr^2= momentum so 15's would win vs 18's all things being equal, if you wanna test this out, spin on your chair with your arms and legs stretched out, while spinning pull your arms and legs in, your gonna start going double or triple the speed, 8th grade physics

Frank Fontaine

I didn't have AP Physics until 10th grade, not sure what public school you went to! Yeah, we hear what you're saying, but you have to remember to apply the theory, that's how you make the theory valid in a practical sense. You can get a doctorate degree in math, and applied math. Big difference. By necessity, wheel is denser than tire. Doesn't matter if it's a super light and strong forged metal or a cheap and heavy and weaker cast one. Believe me when I say a 19" rim on a BMW or Porsche is no longer for looks, it's for performance. With a Maxima, any aftermarket rim is for looks, not for performance. Putting on 15's is not a good way to increase performance on a Max, and your boss will fire you if that's the best you got, unless you went to Brudiddy Elementary....

mansurxk

iTrader: (14)

its a rough estimate and it proves a point, and yeah i do have an engineering degree
;thats why they dont put car tires on an atv or motorcyle because it hinders performance trying to accelerate extra mass, since you had 10th grade physics, even you would know F=ma

VQuick

iTrader: (17)

Try using a dictionary. They're both accepted spellings.

And that would be "whomever you bought the car from", if you're conducting grammar class...

Grammar teacher fired.

SEdge

just chiming in to say that after switching from 16 inch five spoke SE rims to 18" Alessio F1's, i notice a significant drop in pickup. it performs like when i was on 16's and had a few passengers in the car. its the weight that matters, and these new rims are extremely heavy.

99maxse5-speed

lol thx for that! gotta be one a** in the crowd and yes i bought the "gray or grey" car from nissan. its even on my window sticker invoice. but you can call it sterling mist if you want! i call my G35 gray also.... but they `re mine, so i can call them what i want...

VQuick

iTrader: (17)

LMAO, "sterling mist" is such a pxssy color name. It's the "mist" that does it. Just "sterling" would be ok, although pretty pretentious.

BOSS

Actually you're wrong. My friend has an '02 BMW M3 6-speed, which he ordered with the "special" 19" M3 wheels. Believe it or not, the standard 18" wheels, which the '02 M3 comes with, make the M3 faster. Look for it on google and see for yourself.

In addition, you people must understand that the bigger an already big wheel gets, your acceleration from a stop will start to decrease exponentially when compared to smaller wheels. So in essence, the speed loss you get by going from an 18" to a 19" wheels is much greater than the speed loss by going from a 15" to a 16" wheel.

Plus, I'm boss and you're fired!

Maximum96

iTrader: (2)

i went from my 15 sawblades to the 17s on the 2Ks, definite loss of acceleration, with my fully modded car is a little faster than a stock max now...i feel it negated all of my mods!!!i will be another one going back to the stock sawblades

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

That is exactly how I felt. I put over $1200 in performance mods only to be weighed down by my 23lb 17's I bought before I knew any better. It was either spend $1200 on the super light rims I really wanted or go back to stock for free. I am back to stock 15" BBB t wheels and am very happy. The ride is soooo much better now to.

The only time I miss the 17's is that few seconds spent looking at my car as I walk out from a store. But I don't miss them when it comes to the hours spent behind the wheel, and that is what really matters.

Shift_my vq

Oh yes

99maxse5-speed

lol! yes doesnt "GREY" just sound better? and i think every1 agrees about bigger wheels.like i said before my now 17`s arent to bad but , you cant tell me that some 19`s 0r even 20`s on our max`s arent going to slow u down a bit! regardless of there weight!

Maximum96

iTrader: (2)

Imagine how i feel with those super heavy 17s! when u say the ride is soo much better now, u mean acceleration right??My conclusion after reading numerous posts and the facts since i joined, bigger rimes do affect acceleration greatly (0-80 at the least), and if they are heavier, it is worse.The reason i put the 17s on is for looks and to increase the value of the car when i decide to sell.
My 1/4 mile times and 0-60 is a little faster than a stock max. I modded at least $1200 just to keep up with my 17s!

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

I was waiting for you to chime in. BBS "t" rims rule!

Have you ever rounded up wheel spacers to correct the offset issue?

I would go back to the t rims in a second if the offset were better-looking...

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

Have not done anything yet. Did some measuring and figuring and to achieve the look I had with the 17's in need around 17mm spacers.

I have a few options.

H&R, probably 20mm for the back and 15mm for the front. It will be well over $200 though. Good thing is they come with studs and lugs and are hub-centric

Togue(sp?) factory. A japanese company that makes a bunch of stuff for 240's. The have a bolt on spacer. 15mm base and it comes with 3mm 8mm and 10mm add on spacers. I won't need longer studs for these since they are bolt on. They are not hub-centric but they should not cause any problems. $200 for front and back.

Make my own. My brother has a place he can get aluminum cut into 6" disks to whatever with needed. Then some drilling needs to be done and longer studs. I could do the front and back for less than $100.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

JC Witney sells spacers that you may be able to work, BUT they will not be hubcentric. IF you decide to have a set made, pleae let me know. WHile they are making one set, I may be in for another set, if the centerbore is cut to be hubcentric. I can always buy the Nismo wheelstuds later.

You could probably make a mint on this if you mass-produced them in aluminum and did a 15-20MM spacer that just needs longer wheelstuds.

I am seriously interested in a set if you do your own set.

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

No need to pay for nismo studs, they are way expensive. You can get APR, I think, for like $2-$3 a piece. My brother went with the APR ones when he needed spacers to fit his RB25 rotors. They do require different lugs, but you still save a ton of money over the Nismo ones.

Making the center bore hubcentric on the DIY ones would be a bit more involved. I would really need to have a machine shop do that to get it right, and that would probably eat up most of the savings. I have a good friend who own's a machine shop and has a CNC machine. But I really hate asking him to do stuff like that for me, ya know.

If I do go that route I will let you know, but I don't think I would ever hassle with trying to make them for a bunch of people. I have seen too many org members do that and it turned into a big headache and they ended up losing money.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

So if you don't go hubcentric with your spacers, how will you keep the ring and the rim centered on the hub? NOT being hubcentric can cause HUGE strength problems.

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

That was/is my concern to. But I know people who run rims and spacers w/o being hubcentric and they say you just have to tighten the bolts down in a careful X pattern and it will be fine. I can see how bolt on type spacers can not be hug centric and not cause problems since they are lug centric.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

We have definately hijacked this thread...

As long as enough of the hub protrudes through the spacer that the rim's hub bore is supported by the hub, you will be fine. If this is not the case, the only thing holding the wheel onto the car from a vertical standpoint is the lugs...a few good bumps and the bolts will sheer right off and yu will be toast. Having the hub and the bore of the wheel interlocked allows the hub to share the stress and takes MOST of the load off os the lugs.