Hard Shift
Hard Shift
When I drive my car everything seems fine but there is a big jerk from 1st to second gear. It's automatic transmission. I went to the mechanic and he said it was the engine mount ..but another mechanic told me to get the tranny replaced. The car works fine besides this one big jerk. Gears change smootley and car runs great. I'm not sure what the problem is....can someone help?
Your cars are about to **** on your faces. Seriously though, your descriptions of this jerk aren't fantastic. Only on the 1-2 shift? Could be many things. I highly suspect it needs a tranny flush or it has faulty dropping resistor. I have an OEM dropping resistor for you. Have you ever flushed the tranny? Common sense should tell you that it isn't a mount cause it isn't behaving oddly on any other sh!ft.
I've got the same jerking problem from 1st to 2nd. I recently changed my tranny fluid and filter. While I didn't do a power flush, I did dump an extra quart of tranny fluid through the system while it was still open and let it drain out the pan to "wash" out any residual crap. The fluid coming out the other end was very clean.
Anyways, at least in my case, I don't think a tranny flush is the key. Like everyone else, I'm praying its not a faulty tranny. It shifts great everywhere else.
Can someone elaborate a bit more on this resistor? Thanks.
Anyways, at least in my case, I don't think a tranny flush is the key. Like everyone else, I'm praying its not a faulty tranny. It shifts great everywhere else.
Can someone elaborate a bit more on this resistor? Thanks.
The 1st to 2nd shift is the most pronounced that's all. Believe me I got the code for solenoid line control with all the same symptoms as you all. I think it was 1205 or something and before I knew about the dropping resistor I went ahead and put a solenoid pack in and still had the same problem. Then I changed the dropping resistor at a last ditch effort and that completely solved everything. Maximas with autos are notorious for that part going bad.
Originally Posted by SHADETREE95
The 1st to 2nd shift is the most pronounced that's all. Believe me I got the code for solenoid line control with all the same symptoms as you all. I think it was 1205 or something and before I knew about the dropping resistor I went ahead and put a solenoid pack in and still had the same problem. Then I changed the dropping resistor at a last ditch effort and that completely solved everything. Maximas with autos are notorious for that part going bad.
Originally Posted by SHADETREE95
Yup it's a dealer part $40. It is located on the driverside strut tower between the air box it's silver and has 2 10 mil bolts and 1 plug it's a 2 min job.
I figure since I know my tranny fluid and filter are fresh then it sounds like the dropping resistor is the problem. Even if it isn't, sounds like an easy thing to replace.
I'll let you all know if this does the trick. Will get to it after the New Year.
Did you read my post? I have a dropping resistor for you. $20 shipped and its yours. It works perfectly. I just don't need it anymore. If it does turn out to be the tranny I have one of those also.
Originally Posted by Broaner
Did you read my post? I have a dropping resistor for you. $20 shipped and its yours. It works perfectly. I just don't need it anymore. If it does turn out to be the tranny I have one of those also.
maybe if you werent so arrogant people would take the time to read your posts.
i have a jerk 1-2 shift for the past 2 years, once the car warms up its fine. obviously theres a problem, but its not detrimental to the cars performance or health.
I was being arrogant? I was unaware offering my part to make it cheaper for him was arrogant.
There is no sense in buying a new one at full price when there is one available for half price. Several things are true when selling a good used part. Both people benefit. One gets the part cheaper. The other gets rid of a part that has been sitting in a box taking up space and gets a bit of money for it. Also, used parts save the environment because they don't use more of our valuable resources. And it makes it less likely that a good part will fill the landfill.
There is no sense in buying a new one at full price when there is one available for half price. Several things are true when selling a good used part. Both people benefit. One gets the part cheaper. The other gets rid of a part that has been sitting in a box taking up space and gets a bit of money for it. Also, used parts save the environment because they don't use more of our valuable resources. And it makes it less likely that a good part will fill the landfill.
Originally Posted by 2 Da Max
dont worry about it, my car jerks so dam much ppl think my tranny is about to drop out.... wait then again i have the dr mod.
send me some information via pm. i can paypal you for that drop resistor so I don't have to order from the stealership. where are you located? i want to try this before my car's out of its 30 day or 1,000 mile warranty (i'm 3 days and 600 miles in right now!).
-James
-James
how long ago did you do this?
do you have the PN#?
do you have the PN#?
Originally Posted by SHADETREE95
The 1st to 2nd shift is the most pronounced that's all. Believe me I got the code for solenoid line control with all the same symptoms as you all. I think it was 1205 or something and before I knew about the dropping resistor I went ahead and put a solenoid pack in and still had the same problem. Then I changed the dropping resistor at a last ditch effort and that completely solved everything. Maximas with autos are notorious for that part going bad.
Mine does this, and I'm sure it's the drop resistor. One other problem with my tranny is when it goes from 2-3 it seems to go in to 3rd and back to 2nd for a split second, it's barely noticeable, but it just seems like its searching for a gear to go into. Is it my driving or the tranny itself? I hope my tranny's going bad, it'd be a great excuse to do the 5spd swap.
brought the car to my regualr mechanic.
"you definately have a problem with your transmission."
that's what he said. he's not a "trans shop" so he couldn't tell me exactly what's wrong with it. he checked everything else out on the car and DID find a knock sensor code. (P0325) He also "doesn't do knock sensors because then another code always follows" whatever that means.
could the knock sensor have anything to do with this? i really don't want to have to bring this back to the TINY dealership and pay 50% of parts and 50% of labor if i don't have to. (that was the warranty. . .50/50 powertrain only. . .30 days or 1,000 miles. . .i'm up to 850 miles)
I just don't want to end up assuming it's one of these "fixes," and when i get around to replacing the parts, that's not the case and i'm over my thousand miles. . . .man. . .why does this have to be so tough??
-James
"you definately have a problem with your transmission."
that's what he said. he's not a "trans shop" so he couldn't tell me exactly what's wrong with it. he checked everything else out on the car and DID find a knock sensor code. (P0325) He also "doesn't do knock sensors because then another code always follows" whatever that means.
could the knock sensor have anything to do with this? i really don't want to have to bring this back to the TINY dealership and pay 50% of parts and 50% of labor if i don't have to. (that was the warranty. . .50/50 powertrain only. . .30 days or 1,000 miles. . .i'm up to 850 miles)
I just don't want to end up assuming it's one of these "fixes," and when i get around to replacing the parts, that's not the case and i'm over my thousand miles. . . .man. . .why does this have to be so tough??
-James
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