CALI SPEC??? YOU NEED TO READ ThiS (message courtesy of 99se5spd)
99 versus 95, give and take. You get a newer car but you get some restrictions. It should keep it passing smog for a longer amount of time as opposed to a 95 that doesn't have the same emissions equipment. Eh, it still sucks though! :-P I love my '99.5 though.
Originally Posted by maximabebe
Can someone please post a pic of this "swish valve" culprit in a 99 SE Cali spec. maxima using a close-up image please. PLEASE.
there's no such thing as a swish valve...
i just tried to replace mine and after two hour of getting no where i just zip tied the bish to the battery tray. i'll try again this weekend. hopefully removing that swirl valve make a difference.
Originally Posted by 99Automagic
Just got my ks done on my 99 cali spec. It was a royal biotch to say the least, but it's done. It took me 2 hours, including clean up. Unbolted the swirl control actuator and moved it out of the way. That gives you just enough room to aim a flash light in there and see what you're doing. Also removed the intake to get enough working space. The rest of the procedure was done exactly like "99se5spd" had said. Everyone with a 99 cali spec should thank this man.
Is the "swirl control actuator" the part circled in red in this picture? If so, can I remove the two bolts holding it on and just push it out of the way while leaving the hoses connected? The local dealer tried to bully me into getting it fixed there (for $600
), so I'm trying to find a cheaper way to get the knock sensor swapped out.
I bought my sensor on ebay for $46 shipped and I replaced it in 40 minutes without removing anything. I used 12" extension, a socket and latex sugical gloves to protect my hands. My hands are are small so I had no problems reaching the sensor , but you can ask a kid or an adult with small hands to take the sensor out after you loosen the bolt.
The only thing that I disconnected was a green connector that prevented me from sliding my hand in.
Those instructions helped me:
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507
The only thing that I disconnected was a green connector that prevented me from sliding my hand in.
Those instructions helped me:
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507
i did the KS in both my 98's all i had to do was unplug 1 connector that was in the way and use an array of elbows and extensions and took off the bolt and put the new one back in, took me about 1 hour.
Originally Posted by 96blkonblkse
i did the KS in both my 98's all i had to do was unplug 1 connector that was in the way and use an array of elbows and extensions and took off the bolt and put the new one back in, took me about 1 hour.
Originally Posted by Maxima-4DSC
thats cause you did it on a 98 and not on a 99. the 99 cali specs are DIFFERENT. that last pic shows the swirl valve vaccum actuator. yes you can unbolt it and slide it about a half an inch toward the radiator for a bit more room. when my 99 was a cali spec i was able to do the knock sensor in my driveway in half an hour using about 16" of extensions a universal and short socket (12mm i think) now that im federal i could have done it in 10 minutes.
Originally Posted by Maxima-4DSC
that last pic shows the swirl valve vaccum actuator. yes you can unbolt it and slide it about a half an inch toward the radiator for a bit more room.

Considering that I can get a new KS on ebay for less than $100 it certainly seems worth a shot...
Originally Posted by Maxima-4DSC
i did it in 30 minutes with hand tools its not that bad.
The only thing that I could get on the front "swirl valve vaccum actuator" bolt was a 10mm offset wrench, which didn't have any room to move. My 3/8" ujoint was too big to get in there, so it looks like I need to pick up a 1/4" one.
The 1/4" ujoint did the trick. I was actually able to see the bolt on the ks and will be grabbing one off ebay.
I also donated $$ to the forum today. It will be worth every penny when I replace my knock sensor for less than $100 instead of the $600 the stealer quoted me.
I also donated $$ to the forum today. It will be worth every penny when I replace my knock sensor for less than $100 instead of the $600 the stealer quoted me.
Originally Posted by matrix11229
Did anyone have a knock sensor ghost code 0304 after the replacement ?
I mean even if your CEL is off , did you check for ghost codes by turning the ecu selector ?
I mean even if your CEL is off , did you check for ghost codes by turning the ecu selector ?
Originally Posted by Maxima-4DSC
cleared my codes and i finally have the 0505 - no failure detected...

I suspect that I didn't tighten enough the boult so thats why I have the code.
Also , after I replaced the sensor the car doesn't vibrate as much as before, but I still feel some vibration when the car stands with the shifter on D.
Does any have some vibration after KS replacement ?
I'm beginning to think that I will be better off paying to have this done. So far I'm at about one hour with no progress... 
My new knock sensor arrived today and things got off to a great start when I dropped and lost one of the bolts that holds the swirl control actuator on. I also couldn't get my "uber wrench" near the knock sensor bolt. I can barely see it with just a flashlight and I can't see it at all when I'm trying to position my wrench in there.

My new knock sensor arrived today and things got off to a great start when I dropped and lost one of the bolts that holds the swirl control actuator on. I also couldn't get my "uber wrench" near the knock sensor bolt. I can barely see it with just a flashlight and I can't see it at all when I'm trying to position my wrench in there.
Originally Posted by matrix11229
For how long do you have 0505 since you cleared the codes ? Did you chek it after a few months ?
I suspect that I didn't tighten enough the boult so thats why I have the code.
Also , after I replaced the sensor the car doesn't vibrate as much as before, but I still feel some vibration when the car stands with the shifter on D.
Does any have some vibration after KS replacement ?
I suspect that I didn't tighten enough the boult so thats why I have the code.
Also , after I replaced the sensor the car doesn't vibrate as much as before, but I still feel some vibration when the car stands with the shifter on D.
Does any have some vibration after KS replacement ?
Originally Posted by Polarisdb
I'm beginning to think that I will be better off paying to have this done. So far I'm at about one hour with no progress... 
My new knock sensor arrived today and things got off to a great start when I dropped and lost one of the bolts that holds the swirl control actuator on. I also couldn't get my "uber wrench" near the knock sensor bolt. I can barely see it with just a flashlight and I can't see it at all when I'm trying to position my wrench in there.

My new knock sensor arrived today and things got off to a great start when I dropped and lost one of the bolts that holds the swirl control actuator on. I also couldn't get my "uber wrench" near the knock sensor bolt. I can barely see it with just a flashlight and I can't see it at all when I'm trying to position my wrench in there.
I backed the car out of the garage and let it run for a couple of minutes. I found that I still had code 0304, which I assumed would clear on its own (is it supposed to?).
Then I cleared the codes and drove my max pretty hard. It seemed to accelerate much better, but I didn't know if it was my imagination. I was happy when I got home since I still had code 0505.
I will be checking the codes occasionally, and hope that 0304 doesn't show up again. The real test will be when I have to get an emissions inspection in November.I would be very happy to never, ever have to replace a knock sensor again. This forum rocks!
Thanks guys,
Polarisdb
Originally Posted by Maxima-4DSC
cleared my codes and i finally have the 0505 - no failure detected...

Help, I am trying to replace my knock sensor on my 99 maxima. I have taken off everything on the intake side up to the throttle body and am looking near the swirl valve but cannot even see the old knock sensor. I know it is around there but I cant even see it much less replace it. Do you guys move the valve out of the way some and put your wrench down that area? I have a wrench with 2 6" extentions and a 1/4" swivel joint. I have to get this thing changed, I was quoted $150 but want to do this myself. Any help would be great, changing this thing is a beast.
99 Max Knock Sensor
Remove the two 10mm bolts (don't drop them) that hold the swirl valve in and move it to the left out of the way (tie it up)...looking in next to the swirl valve about half way under the lower manifold you will see the knock sensor (move the drop light around for the best location) It's held in by a 12mm bolt
Is there anyone in the Dallas/Fort Worth area that might me able to help me do this? I didn't know that the Cali spec was different and I was reading the FAQ for federal. Would anyone happened to have taken picture while doing this? I think pictures would help tremendously. I would really appreciate any help anyone can offer me. You can contact me at pavan87@yahoo.com or (817) 875-8475. PLEASE HELP ME!
pavan87,
The part with the red circle around it (the swirl valve) in the picture below is blocking your view of the knock sensor. Stand on the drivers side of the car and try removing the two bolts on the swirl valve and gently push it toward the front of the car. The knock sensor is in the cavity behind the swirl valve. Then you just have to follow the black wire that enters the cavity until you see where it connects to the knock sensor.
It also helps if you shine a bright shop light in there. I wasn't able to see my knock sensor until I used the light.
The part with the red circle around it (the swirl valve) in the picture below is blocking your view of the knock sensor. Stand on the drivers side of the car and try removing the two bolts on the swirl valve and gently push it toward the front of the car. The knock sensor is in the cavity behind the swirl valve. Then you just have to follow the black wire that enters the cavity until you see where it connects to the knock sensor.
It also helps if you shine a bright shop light in there. I wasn't able to see my knock sensor until I used the light.
After reading all the posts about the KS install for a 99 Cali spec, I was determined to do the job myself. I received my new KS yesterday and was excited to install it after work today.
I suddenly got depressed that I couldn't even see the damn thing to save my life! I flashed lights in the area where the KS should be located but to no avail. I traced the sub-harness but it leads to somewhere below the manifold.
I thought I've read in the posts that the KS is visible, although not readily. I thought I was armed with all the info needed to replace the KS.
I just ordered a service manual only to find out that it recommends taking out the manifold.
Can anybody confirm that the KS can be seen on a 99 Cali Spec Max?
Thanks.
I suddenly got depressed that I couldn't even see the damn thing to save my life! I flashed lights in the area where the KS should be located but to no avail. I traced the sub-harness but it leads to somewhere below the manifold.
I thought I've read in the posts that the KS is visible, although not readily. I thought I was armed with all the info needed to replace the KS.
I just ordered a service manual only to find out that it recommends taking out the manifold.
Can anybody confirm that the KS can be seen on a 99 Cali Spec Max?
Thanks.
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507
with the printed pics it took me 15 mins to finally spot the darn ks, and i cant imagine how it is possible to replace it by fishing with a hanger or any type of extention.
congrats to those who've done it
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2446817
Its not too hard i think it took me 20 min or so which half of it was cursing after cutting my hand all to hell. I agree with whoever said nissan welds razor blades under the plenum by the knock sensor. Also on a side note in b13 sentras, and nx's the edge of the fuel tank while replacing the pump use caution this is definately razor sharp and isnt fun with gas soaked hands. I am beginning to think nissan did this as a joke.
I used 2 open ended wrenches fit together to give a bit more tq when loosening the bolt. I have a 5sp 99se federal spec. I think i may have to change it again though, i just put one of my spares from an sr20 engine in, and apparently that one isnt working well.
Also wanted to ask if anyone else with a warpspeed y pipe gets a low cell count in front cat. coverter code. I have 3 brand new 02 sensors installed, and i have a high flow dynomax or magnaflow cat after the y pipe, and a 2.5in catback, also a popcharger.
I used 2 open ended wrenches fit together to give a bit more tq when loosening the bolt. I have a 5sp 99se federal spec. I think i may have to change it again though, i just put one of my spares from an sr20 engine in, and apparently that one isnt working well.
Also wanted to ask if anyone else with a warpspeed y pipe gets a low cell count in front cat. coverter code. I have 3 brand new 02 sensors installed, and i have a high flow dynomax or magnaflow cat after the y pipe, and a 2.5in catback, also a popcharger.




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