I just put on the rotors 2 days ago and have yet to do the brake lines, only thing is with new pads and rotors the braking still feels a bit mushy. Anyone have this problem? I broke them in correctly and am going to put the ss brakelines on later today, any tips/problems people have had with these? thanks..
first thread ever

 

Yea, but i heard that it wasnt smart to change your brake pads cause they say that the ceramic OEM brake pads will work the best with the car.

 

bleed brakes please.

 

Ditto, if your braking is mushy you must have air in the lines.
New pads and rotors will not correct the mushy feeling.
They will improve braking, your stopping distance and eliminate griding.

 

where do you guys get the SS brake lines from? how much? thanks

 

It's too late now, but did you "burnish" the rotors/pads on initial drive?
Jae

 

what do you guys think of these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
I might get these, but I don't know if they would be worse than goodrich lines.
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Web Shows

 

bumpers biyatch!
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Petite Cams

 

okay. since noone is putting their 2cents in my interest, i'm gonna buy'em.
BOOYAA!
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CALIFORNIA MEDICAL MARIJUANA DISPENSARIES

 

I can't find any info on google about the brake lines. Here's my reasons for going with Goodridge, which's only $20 more. *Goodridge racing background * DOT/TUV/ISO certified
Jae

 

you found ss brake lines for 90?

I paid 110 with free shipping...hmm.

 

Yay, I bled the brakes, they work like real brakes again!
Thurznite - yea I burnedem on the first run

 

so you burnedem on the first run, eh? since brakes dont make you any faster i assume that you didn't burn a racer, but your brakes?
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Carollinne cam

 

Those are not a proper replacement for stock lines. They lack the tabs that go into the slots on the caliper. Eventually, vibration will cause them to loosen, then bye-bye brake fluid. My 2c.

 

What are YOU talking about?
What tabs? What slots?
The only thing that conncets to the calipers is the Banjo fittings.
Are you talking about the retaining clips that are on the front strut and inner fender well?

 

That is what I was told by my mechanic when I went to have those same lines put on yesterday. He says in addition to the main bolt, there are "slots & grooves" to hold the line in place. He is a good, import mechanic & he has no reason to lie to me. I'm sure if they are tightened enough they won't come loose, but it is something to think about. They are generic lines; not specifically designed for a max.

 

Seriously, have you ever worked on your brakes??
There are no slots and grooves.
These are the only clips holding the brake lines

This is what the banjo fittings look like, these go into the caliper

here is the banjo fittings going into the caliper

 

Whatever, dude. Who cares?

 

You shouldnt make comments about things you dont know about.
Im not trying to be an ****, just trying to clear things up to eliminate confusion.

 

I made in quite clear that is what my MECHANIC told me. Dude asked for anyone's 2 cents & that was mine. I absolutely could not care less about this thread.

 

if you absolutely could not care less, then why is it that you keep posting in it?

 

1. If you couldn't care less about this thread you wouldn't have replied in it.

2. Don't offer somebody else's opinion as your $.02.

3. Don't act like an a$$ when somebody that knows better corrects you.

3. If you couldn't care less about this thread you wouldn't have replied in it.

4. If you couldn't care less about this thread you wouldn't have replied in it.

5. You just got

6. If you couldn't care less about this thread you wouldn't have replied in it.

 

wow, never meant to start the forums angriest thread! It was my first too haha...
Just an update to people looking at these "magnum" ss brake lines off ebay, dont buy them go for goodrich....and if i knew how to post pictures Id show you all why...
Thanks for everyones .02 by the way, even if it ****ed everyone off

 

I need to read the FAQ and IMPORTANT threads before posting a question - whats this all about? I did read all that ***t

 

what would u guys recommend...slotted...drilled or both together? I drive a lot so I think drilled might be bad but who knows.....also are pads rotors and ss lines easy to install for someone who has never done brake work b4?? thanks for replies

 

I had never done brake work before...but had some experienced help. After it's been all said and done, I'd say you can do it yourself....except bleeding the brakes, that took 2 people.

 

If I were to buy new ones again, Id go with cross drilled only.
With the cross drilled you may have a chance of getting them turned.
With the slotted, no way.

 

I had x-drilled and slotted my first time around.... seemed the slots were chewing up the pads real quick. Finally got just x-drilled when i had 2 huge cracks in my LR rotor. My $.02 .... just get x-drilled.

 

I have heard x- drilled has more tendency to crack. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

What is the right way to break in pads and rotors? And what does burndem mean? Forgive me for my lack of knowledge.

Mooney

 

yeah they do have a tendency to crack. i had two nice size cracks in mine.....but they look good when they arent cracked!

 

LOL...yea I also wanna knw how you "burn" the brakes the first time or w/e....sorry for my lack of knowledge, this is my first car so that is my excuse

 

If your comment is towards me, then I think you might know, you've been here since Nov 2003, so that is my guess. Do you just go fast and brake hard, or do you hold a lighter up to it and burn it. I seriously don't know. Someone please enlighten me.

Mooney

 

I seriously don't know....I joined back in november to install my altezza gen 2 and then religiously started using the org around Marchish....I havent really done much as far as cars and have learned a ton by reading but as far as "burning" the brakes I SERIOUSLY have no clue......

 

Ok, I guess I will find out about burning brakes at napa or autozone.

I am getting new front rotors today and I'm not sure whether to buy new brake pads or not? Mine are at 50% now, and they are wearing quicker because my rotors are warped. Someone help please.

Mooney

 

here's a link on how to install SS brake lines and do a flush:
https://maxima.org/modules.php?name=SSB

 

okay I/m a moron.
Thurznite is an ORG member.
I thought my98GLEmax was saying that he "burnedem on thursday night" lol.
this made my then-drunk azz to think,"Burned who/what?"lol
Ya, burning the brakes is very important. I think it's like slowing from a very high speed to around 60mph, then from 60 to 10mph, without stopping completely, or something like this. It has to be done a number of times, or just once, I don't know. I need to stop posting while drunk. Sorry for being an *******!!


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Vaporizers

 

I was wondering....but thanks for the explanation.

"Burning" the brakes is doing 4 to 5 60mph-0 stops, you do this when you get new pads and rotors. Expect a lot of smoke and stink, as they are new pads.

 

Is that really good for your car?? I thought that would just make it worse.....also do you just slam on the brakes???

 

burn? you mean burnish, right? I have Hawk HP+ track pads. This's what the instructions say

What procedure does Hawk Performance recommend for burnishing brake pads for racing?
All brake pads have to be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against. Even though Hawk Performance burnishes the pads in the factory, a transfer film must be generated at the pad and rotor interface for optimal performance. Whether it is new or used rotors, you must follow the bed-in steps listed below to maximize brake performance. Step 1. Seal all brake ducts. Step 2. Slowly engage brakes 6 to 8 times at medium speeds Do not drag brakes or come to a complete stop. Step 3. Increase speeds to simulate race conditions; allow 6 to 8 high pressure (about 500 psi) snubs at racing speeds. Total engagements for Step 2 and Step 3 should be a maximum of 15 to 20. Step 4. Remove brake duct seals. Allow the system to cool for about 15 minutes. Do not engage brakes while car is parked during cool down period. Your Rotors and Hawk Performance Pads are now ready for race! Do not sand or grind the brake pads or rotors after this burnishing procedure has been completed.
Jae

 

whats a brake duct seal?