Hi Fellow Orgs;

I am having quite a time with a "Check Engine" "MIL" Light error.

The Flash Code indicates a 10 08 code, but after getting the code one a day and clearing it, then I went to where it went two weeks without the code showing up. It got hot and humid and the 10 08 came back, happening several times a day.

I removed all of the components in the back of the car near the carbon canister, and honestly everything looked fairly good back there, but I didn't really clean any valves back there, I mostly inspected hoses, cleaned everything up and put it back together. I was hoping the check engine light would be 'accidentally' fixed, but I was not that lucky.

I discovered a broken negative post on my five and a half year old Optima Battery that was severely corroded and lifted right out of the battery, bought a new Optima Battery, but the return of a good ground on my battery didn't get rid of the "check engine" light either.

Next, I discovered that the lowest vacuum hose on the Evap Canister PUrge Control Solenoid Valve was not connected at all! I thought I had found the problem, but the "check engine" light with the 10 08 code keeps coming back.

I opened up the Evap Canister Purge Volume Control Valve up on the intake manifold (the one indicated by the 10 08 code itself) to see if it was corroded inside or not. It really didn't look bad at all.

I am still searching, I have read everything I could get my hands on up here at Maxima.org, and other Maxima related sites, but I am not there yet.

I saw where someone indicated that I might try cleaning the vacuum port inside the throttle body, or that I should remove the small valve on the front of the carbon canister (is that the vent control valve?), the one with two 10 mm bolts holding it on, and spray it with WD 40, but I haven't done that yet.

All of the hoses look fine, I will probably get a chance to get the Alldata diagnostics diagrams so that I can test all of the valve in this system.

It looks like I will need to investigate the following:

Evap Canister Purge Volume Control Valve (150.00 price range behind throttle linkage on intake manifold)

Evap Canister Purge Control Valve (black mushroom shaped valve near the ECPVCV mentioned above)

Evap Control System Pressure Sensor (mounted high and in front of the Carbon Canister in the back by the left rear tire)

Evap Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve (mounted next to the right side of the front cylinder bank with the black connector attached, one vacuum line on top and two vacuum hoses on the side)

Map/Baro Switch Solenoid Valve (next to the Evap Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve above, but with a brown connector attached, and two vacuum hoses on top and one on the side).

Absolute Pressure Valve (located on plastic air intake near the radiator cap).

**I've already checked the 10 amp fuse that I believe is associated with someone's post, but I didn't see where is was marked #58.

***All of the electrical connectors looks very good with no corrosion evident in the connectors.

I would like to test the Evap Canister Purge Volume Control Valve, but I am like someone else that posted in that I don't know how to test the 6 terminals in the connector to see if that 150.00 part is still good or not.

I know this is a bunch of information, but I am looking for the real mechanics to give me some suggestions to my questions, and what else I might check before I get the alldata information and proceed with the testing of all components.

I am intent on doing this myself now, since I took it to the Nissan Dealer and they gave me the car back and said they would need to order some 220.00 worth of parts that included the Carbon Canister, the Vent Control Valve, and the Evap Purge Control Valve. They also told me they wouldn't replace the Carbon Canister without replacing the two valves because it could damage the carbon canister! Does anybody believe that to be true!

It seemed like they were just throwing parts at the problem to collect money from me, and their diagnosis didn't gel with anything that I had read up here on the .ORG, so anyhow, Any help from fellow .ORG members that know their stuff would be greatly appreciated.

By the way, 224,500 miles on my 1996 Maxima SE at this point, and I want to keep it going strong!

Thanks,

White96MaxSE

 

I'm bumping this.

Can't anyone give me any help on this one?

Thanks in advance.

White96MaxSE

 

e-mail address please, I'll send you the stuff from the FSM.

 

doode, i had the same problem with the evap code (1008) along with 3 other o2 sensors gone bad. total i paid 6 bills to get it fixed. good luck.

 

I had the 10 08 code on my 1995 Maxima and got the $150 part which fixed the problem.

 

Hi I got the alldata printed out to begin testing.

I now know how the pins on the 6 position connection on the ECPVCV are wired and how they are associated with the pins in the ECM.

Of the 6 pins in the connector, Pin 2 and Pin 5 are battery voltage. I tested them and they showed 13.5 volts.

I need to test the pins 1 and 3 against pin 2, and pins 4 and 6 against pin 5 on the valve itself because the alldata information says that the resistance should be 30 ohms between these pins. I haven't performed this test yet.

I disconnected the ECPVCV, plugged the hoses, and turned the ignition key to the on position with the connector attached, and looking into the side of the unit, I was able to hear the valve power up, it sort of vibrated, but I didn't see the valve stem move into the closed position as I was hoping.

I have a buddy who has a Maxima of the same year as mine, so before I buy the Valve, we are going to take the one off his car, and drive the car around and see if we can get the check engine light with the 10 08 code to happen with his part on my car.

I'll report back when I get this done, but it might be this weekend.

Hey Dave Sz. Thanks for the info, its late and I won't be able to check it tonight, but I greatly appreciate what you sent me via email. (I checked and I don't think I every received this info via email, if you read this, please send it again).

Hi Chiwchan, Thanks for posting. It gives me hope that this valve may fix it. I have been told that LKQ, a national chain of parts recyclers will sell me a valve off a low mileage Maxima for half the cost of a new one, and guarantee it for 1 year or 12,000 miles, so I may go that route instead of buying a new one for 150.00.

Thanks for all the info.

When I can, I will post up some of the pinouts of the ECM and the ECPVCV Connector for the next guy that needs to test this part on his/her car.

White96MaxSE

 

We put my buddies Evap Canister Purge Volume Control Valve on my car, and mine that was throwing the 1008 Check Engine light, and I have driven using his valve for two days now trying to make it throw the light and no MIL has appeared.

He called me last night to report that the Check Engine Light came on in the first mile he drove on his way to work.

I now know the source of the problem.

I am not able to find a working Evap Canister Purge Volume Control Valve at any of the salvage yards, and if they have it, then it is on an engine in the warehouse and they won't sell the part separate from the engine.

I talked to Nissan, and they tell me that there is a redesigned part. Now, it requires two or three nuts, two hose clamps, two different hoses, a bracket that mounts the new part, and the valve itself.

My close Nissan dealer wants 212.00 for all the parts plus tax, and Courtesy Nissan wants 172.00 plus shipping from Texas.

I'm about ready to order the valve and swap the good valve back to my buddy.

Any suggestions before I buy a new one?

Thanks in advance,

White96MaxSE

 

Well, it appears that my 96 GLE with 45k miles has the same problem. The Nissan dealer (located in Queens, New York) wants $350 (part and labor) to replace the evap purge control valve (I don't know if this is identical to the evap. canister volume control valve).

 

I think the Evap Canister Purge Control Valve is the black mushroom shaped plastic part on the intake manifold that controls whether or not fumes will actually be allowed to enter the intake manifold, while the Evap Canister Purge Control Valve controls only the "volume" that will flow. The latter valve has a stepper motor that responds to various signals from the ECM and can respond and position the piston in several different positions allowing more flow through the valve depending on the position of the piston in the valve.

I'm going to change the Evap Canister Purge Volume Control Valve myself (and clear the code, of course), and save the dealer's labor charge.

It's only a couple of 10mm nuts, a couple of hose clamps and one electrical connector.

The Evap Canister Purge Control Valve is three hoses, and seems minor as well.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but there is only the one Evap Canister Purge Control valve in this Evap System, and it is located on the intake manifold, right?

White96MaxSE

 

bump, i would like to know as well if thats it