narf003

Hi all, I checked my ECU and got the good ol' KS code. After a few weeks I replaced it, drove on it for about a week or so and now the CEL is on, and after checking it its spitting out the KS code (0304) and also the "Crank Shaft Position" code (0407). Are these tied together somehow, or is it possible to have screwed up the second by replacing the KS? I actually had a shop do it, and I would like to think they know what they're doing.

narf003

I just went out and reset the CEL so hopefully it wont come back on :-/ If anyone knows more about the Crank Shaft Position sensor, and/or its relationship with the Knock Sensor, or how it would affect my driving, I'd appreciate it... I dont know much about its function so its tough to decide whether or not its actually bad.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

CkPS (Crankshaft PS) is probably what caused it all - it has similar symptoms as the Camshaft PS in that they will trigger a false knock sensor code. Clearing it was a safe thing to do, but if the CkPS continues to misbehave the car will fail to start. The computer stops if either the CmPS or CkPS appear to be malfunctioning.

My CmPS went out recently, and it began as refusing to start on the first try, happening once every few weeks. Then it happened a little more frequently and the codes first appeared, and within a day it was every other start until it finally refused to start. I replaced the CmPS (it's easy - I think the CkPS is also easy), cleared the codes, and the car's been fine ever since. There are tests for the sensors in the FSM, but they won't always detect a sensor that isn't sending good signals. My CmPS passed the tests but continued to set codes. I put off buying a new sensor for a while for that reason and shouldn't have. Believe the computer codes since it's the final judge of a sensor and whether to start the car.

So keep an eye on it and replace the CkPS if the problem recurs.

Dave

Prophecy1

Sometimes other sensors will trip the KS, so your first objective is to treat the other code then treat the KS. Which in most cases you will find it will go away after the original treatment.

Read the forums

Proph

narf003

Is it normal for the CkPS to trip cause a false trip in the Knock Sensor yet not appear to be bad itself? I ONLY had the KS code for a while, then finally replaced it, drove fine for a bit and now I'm getting both. I'm just hoping I didn't replace the KS for nothing. As far as starting, I do notice it getting tougher to start, turns for about 3 seconds before finally catching. I should probably look into changing it. Is there only one CkPS?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

You'll have to research the CkPS yourself, but I think it works similarly to the CmPS. My car did the same hesitant starting thing too, so I recommend replacing it now before it goes bad and leaves you stranded. A search here will turn up instructions on how to do it, I think it's just one bolt and an electrical connector.

I doubt the CkPS was responsible for tripping the KS code without tripping the CkPS code too. It just doesn't work like that. Were you running lower octane fuel at the time? Changing the KS was not a waste - supposedly they go bad after a while and hurt your fuel economy and power. I wouldn't worry about that part for a long time unless the KS code pops up alone, repeatedly.

Dave

narf003

I always run 93+ octane, so that couldn't have done it. I think it's just coincidence that the other one decided to go shortly after, and that's probably what's causing the false trip on the KS. I'm going to order one from Courtesy tonight and hopefully put it in by the end of the week. Where is it located. I browsed the forum earlier today and found a picture of it but can't seem to retrace my steps. I even became an overdue donating member for all the help this site has given me.

kbmaxima

iTrader: (11)

I've been tripping the knock and the rear o2 sensor for a while. had it reset and hasn't come back since. I know the knock is a silent code. Should I replace o2 or knock first?

narf003

I've never had a problem with any of the O2 sensors, but I have read that they can cause a false trip in the KS, as it seems everything can. I would personally replace the O2 sensor first, then see if you still get the code for the KS, but if you're noticing poor gas mileage and performance under 3500rpm, then the KS may be bad as well.