JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Say we pretend cash doesn't matter... what's the best setup?

- Cattman headers (includes/replaces Y-pipe I assume)
- Cat (best brand)
- B-pipe (same here)
- Muffler (yeah...)
- Place racing cold air intake (or injen, but it isn't really a CAI)

Is the cat worth it?

What about the sound? I'll assume it depends partially on the headers, not really on the b-pipe and mostly on the muffler.

Before anyone goes postal I did check the faqs and I haven't heard of this specific setup.

Overall how much Hp would that yeld (if anyone has a setup like this, if not, seperated components'll do it).

97WhtSE

Well if money doesnt depend why dont u just buy: Catman headers, any high flow cat, catman y pipe, catman catback exhaust. as far as the intake goes i would do injen. I guarantee u will like the power gain and would also love the way it sounds. CAtman imo is the shizzle.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Don't the headers come with the Y-pipe? Seen a picture of the headers.

99Maxima5sp

Yes, the headers come with a Y-pipe. No one has dynoed any difference that i have personally seen as to whats the best setup. Everyone will chime in and say what they have experience with is best. If you want quality, im sure Cattman is pretty up there (better be for the price.) Also, you shouldnt bother with a highflow cat as most will take a dump on you shortly...

So...

-Cattman Headers
-Cattman Catback
-Place Racing style CAI (not injen, its warm air and totally pointless)




my .02
-eric

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

Forget the cat altogether, either keep the stock one or use a test pipe. Test pipe will cost you like $25, and you might get ~1hp from it. No sense in wasting $180 on an RT cat when the stock one is just as good (there are no measureable gains to be seen by going to an RT cat on our cars, so you might as well just keep the stock one, or gain a possible 1hp from a testpipe, up to you whether or not you want, or need, to limit your emissions (I run a testpipe because I am in michigan and I got it for virtually free with my warpspeed SFCs.)

As far exhaust if money were no object I'd go cattman all the way, best sounding catback I've heard and catbacks are pretty much all the same when it comes to power increase, maybe a slight slight difference due to muffler design but again were talking about differences on the order of 1-2hp. More significant 1/4 mile time variations will be seen from run to run based upon typical run deviation than you would notice changing from one aftermarket catback to another (assuming you are NA and the piping diameters are the same or close to the same).

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Thanks guys (And BTW, I'm N/A - I'm going for the maximum I can get without forced induction; UDP, flywheel, lightwheight wheels, light brakes, weight reduction, and freeing up restriction + slicks/smaller diameter tires (better gearing).

What about the b-pipe?

It'd be pretty funny to slap the OEM exhaust back on, for the hell of it, cause other than the RPM on my dash, the drop is very subtle and my car looks bone stock.

So the headers cost 795$ US, the test pipe around 25$... now how much for the Cattman exhaust and the Place Racing CAI?

And BTW, is the Cattman exhaust relatively (for and aftermarket exhaust) quiet? Sure a rich sound is alot of fun but is it the kind of exhaust that ****es off everyone in a 50 mile radius? There are too many modded four-bangers and V8s, modded V6s are too rare to get a good idea of what to expect.

illtoro

iTrader: (1)

I have the cattman headers/y waiting to be installed but I was thinking about the rest of the system, I was thinking stock cat, and I want the b and muffler pipe setup to be quiet, so it sounds stock until WOT. So I'm wondering if catt is quiet.

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

Hey JClaw you listed all the miniscule mods that free up several HP/TQ while you left out the important ones such as ECU and MEVI.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Since when does an ECU give you more HP/TQ than changing everything from the headers to the exhaust? (unless you were referring only to UDP & flywheel, but in that case the ECU is going to give a good gain only if you have some significant mods already...)

As for MEVI, I'm not interested in top speed that much, mostly 0-60 and 1/4 mile.

nostrixoxide

Jclaw,

Mevi isn't just for top speed. It helps to car pull hard on the top end in every gear. The modified ECU is to extend the rev limiter to get the additional potential from the Mevi. Other significant N/A mod's would be cams, extrude honed intake manifold, stroker kit, head work, higher CR etc.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Yeah I forgot about the cams... how long would the install be.

nostrixoxide

It's not something I would recommend to the average joe.

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

dude if you want to maximize your performane in the 1/4 mile MEVI and JWT ECU are essential, the guys running them are in general .2 seconds and 2mph quicker than the guys not running them...

i ran 13.99 @ 98 with intake ypipe and mevi, added JWT ECU ecu and ran 13.62 @ 101...

besides a y pipe, ECU is the single biggest gain you can get as far as bolt ons go for our cars...

THT

iTrader: (8)

Slightly OT but Neal, did you run those times on street tires?

~THT

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

If I only get the headers/test pipe/muffler, will the ECU be worth it?

BTW, still stands, will I still need a b-pipe with the headers/test pipe/cattman muffler?

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

K, just checked ALOT of threads about the MEVI... looks like I seriously underestimated it. But won't reving the engine at 7000+ really affect its lifespan? Anyway...

I decided to get just the Y-pipe instead of full headers/y to save some cash...

How about this:

Y-pipe (Budget / Stainless) 190$
B-pipe (how much?)
Greddy/Cattman exhaust (can't decide) (about 300$)
PR CAI (225$)
MEVI (how much?)
JWT (about 500$, I think)
Slicks (22-inch M/T for optimal gearing at the track (compared to 25.5 inches for the stock street tires) 320$ for both
2 lightweight 15" to mount the slicks on (about 250$)

This should get the car firmly in 13-second territory, considering it ran 15.09 stock...

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

No those were both on slicks, about a 2 years ago and a year ago respectively if my memory is correct. For the 13.99 @ 98 i had I/Y MEVI and slicks. For the 13.62 @ 101 I had I/Y MEVI JWT ECU and slicks (ran 13.98 @ 101 on street tires that day). My best street tire time is 13.83 @ 102.00 with I/Y/Catback MEVI and JWT ECU. My best on slicks is 13.43 @ 102.34, same mods + slicks.


Cattman Catback or Greddy Catback is about $600 and it includes the B pipe, there are cheaper ones out there. MEVI used to cost around $600 but I think the price of it may have come down some. JWT ECU is $600. I'd like to see how you do with the 22" slicks, you will definately have to shift into 4th with those on there, but the super short gearing will aid acceleration, so they may help more than they hurt.

Revving out to 7200rpm doesn't seem to be a problem for our cars, the stroke on the VQ30 is so small that the piston speeds are still very low, and the valvetrain has been holding up for everyone who's got it, even for the guy with the 8000rpm redline, but I don't know how often he actually runs it out to 8k. Mine was fine for a year and a half with 7200rpm limiter, including about 100 1/4 mile passes with that rev limiter and lots and lots of hard hard driving on the highway. It saw 7200rpm more times than I can count.

Big_Ham

iTrader: (1)

Ummm ... for you and I in Florida, ANY intake is a WAI for 6+ months out of the year. This has been debated enough to conclude that there is no negligable difference between HAI and CAI intakes when it comes to raw gains. Actual dynos do vary, but not more than the same intake would vary from Max to Max. Different people just have different butt dynos ... many of which can be contributed to the placebo effect. I myself am now running a stock airbox because my butt dyno says I get better low end with it.