1) My autotragic tranny is starting to knock pretty badly...it slams into gear and hesitates to shift.

2) It is leaking something. Oil or tranny fluid?

3) To top it all off, it has a starting problem- you sometimes have to turn the key 2-3 times in the ignition to get it to start.

This really sucks. I hope the problem is as simple as dropping a new tranny in and programming my air:fuel ratio, as I will have the Apexi SAFC in a few days. I have an exhaust, y-pipe, intake, test pipe, etc so I'm not surprised that the air:fuel probably sucks badly.

Any advice? Opinions?

 

Babaluuuu...

Anyways, why dont you check if you're low on fluid.. Check teh dipstick...

Also if you have fluid check to see if your drop resistor is working properly.. How I dont know, there was a way to check it here with a multimeter.. Im sure someone will chime in.

 

is your tranny slipping?

as sober said make sure your fluid is just right, it is imperative that it falls within the range on the dipstick.

i cant stress it enough that if you are having any problems with your auto tranny get it looked at immediatly. It will only get worse if it isnt taken care of.

good luck

 

Oil level is fine. It really isn't leaking much at all, but of course, any leak is unusual. I'm getting a new tranny soon as it is- I got quite a deal on one. I am hoping that after the new tranny is in and I have programmed my air:fuel ratio with the Apexi SAFC that there isn't much (if anything) left to do, to remedy the problems...

 

The drop resistor is on the front top of the strut piller...driver side. Open up hood to see it. It is secured by two 12 or 14 mm bolts. Disconnect connector and remove. Get a multimeter, and put it on the ohm setting, stick the two leads of the multimeter into the drop resistor. It should read 12 ohms (11.6 to 12.4 ohms). the drop resistor is enclosed within a metal casing, but if you look closely, the actual resistor is white(ceramic). The metal is just the mount to the chassis.

A bad drop resistor will definitely cause ****ty shifting.

 

I got the diagnosis today (finally got the car up on stands): The crank pulley seal is leaking. Not bad, but until I have it fixed it's imperative the oil level stays good- I poured about a pint more in today. I will probably be getting the aftermarket, Unorthodox Racing underdrive pulley to take care of this. This should do it right? So I am actually killing two birds with one stone: I'm improving performance, while fixing a very important problem Or can someone help me out on getting a new crank pulley seal? Or bolt, whatever that thing is. Oh thank God this wasn't something like a cracked head gasket which my friend speculated.

 

check both drop resistor and possibly the Throttle position sensor and check to see if theyre both within spec. TPS would cause late shifting and hesitation in shifting, and the Drop resistor would cause it to slam into gear.

 

Just curious...when I get the UR pulley, will it come with a new seal or whatever that thing is what will shut down this leak?

 

its possible that the leak is leaking onto the crankshaft position sensor and causing those hard starts too since the sensor is directly under the lower pulley

 

Thanks for the advice, I'll make sure this is taken into consideration...but will the aftermarket UR pulley installation correct this problem? Just wondering if it comes with the necessary parts cuz I haven't bought one before...

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ion+sensor+UDP


it might cause more problems if your putting an UDP, this might be correced, but i dont know, you'll need to do your own research. teh CPS relies on a magnetic field to give a signal to start, the materials on the pulley tend to throw it off, read up on the above thread for details.

 

that above post/link is about the RVM UDP which was a faulty product, probably the best thing to do is call the place which you are buying your UDP from(don't buy a RVM udp) and ask them what comes with an UDP order...they will tell you

now for my question......is it possible for a Y-pipe and catback to mess with your air/fuel ratio as you mentioned above?

 

doesnt the ECU adjust the A/F mixtureaccordingly with the front 2 oxygen sensors? so wahtever the catback and ypipe changes, is readjusted by the o2 sensors?