wassup guys, listen i have a serious problem. I drove my car today and i was at a stop sign, I go to put it in 1st and it wouldnt go in. I had to finally pump my clutch like a billion times and then i JAMMED it in. I then got home and realized it wouldnt go into any gears with ease. i had to force it into 1st, 2nd, etc. ALso, i realized when i put it into 1st, it started vibrating the car alot, this never happend be4. The gears feel very notchy and you have to forcefully put them into gear. What do you think is wrong? Tranny fluid ? The car has 90,000, and i think the tranny fluid was never changed. Synchros, Linkage , Bleeding the clutch ???? Keep in mind my clutch is new. Thanx guys

 

1) Open hood and confirm there is fluid in the master cylinder
2) If low, rebleed.
3) Post results after 1) and 2) are done.

 

Throwout bearing. Do you notice it going in and out of gear fine when the engine is off? When at a stop, do you feel the car tend to pull forward any with the clutch all the way in? I had these problems and it was the throwout bearing.

 

::Bump::: <- Eager to here the results.

 

Either they didnt replace the old one, or they ended up using one that was defective.
One of the ears on it is probably broken

 

Some exactly like what will happen if your transmission fluid ran out. Did you check the level?

 

what are the neccessary steps to change the throwout bearing, and how much?

 

just talked to some people with "mechanic background" and they sed it is the slave cylinder ? what do you think ?

 

That's what I was getting it. It's cheap. Change it, rebleed the system like I mentioned and report back. Slave cylinder leaking = no pressure. No pressure = can't disengage the clutch all the way = grinding gears/hard to shift. It's 10x cheaper to try this vs TO bearing.

 

 

Ya, I had "mechanically inclined" people telling me it was the slave cylinder as well. Then we checked it, and it was fine. The cost of a throwout bearing? $29 or so. The labor? $400, cuase you have to pull the tranny just like if you were replacing the clutch.......

 

How long ago did you have the clutch replaced? Your able to get it into gear but using force.. so it sounds like you have a clutch system problem. I'd check the slaves like everyone is saying to make sure it properly extents out and moves the fork in your bell housing. If thats fine, then its internal. Might be your throw out bearing isn't pushing your clutch far enough to engage....


Bottom line we are going to need more info.........

 

Not really. All he has to do is check the MC for fluid, bleed the line and check for leaks at the slave cylinder. If that fixes it, he's good. If not, then time to dig further. But he seems to ignore all common logic and keeps posting. He could have done this in 1/2 at most. And it might cost him $5 for the fluid

 

itz my throwout bearing, so im gettin in a new clutch, becuz hes taking out the tranny, everything is costing me 500, 150 for the brand new OEM NISSAN clutch and 350 labor. Guys what do you think bout the oem clutch, itz fine right ?

 

d0o you guys think i should get the fluids flushed too ? and change the tranny oil ? and what kind shud i use for nice, smooth shifts ?

 

You might be getting a clutch from Nissan but I doubt it's the one you want. For $130, it's probably the Key Value Kit. Which is the one you DON'T want. Check with him to make 100% it's NOT that. Put new tranny fluid. Amsoil or Redline GL-4. Read the fluids/lubricant section

 

I figured it was your throw out bearing. I had done a clutch on a max not to long ago. You don't have to change the transmission fluid, but do a flush out on Slave cylinder and master clutch cylinder.

The OEM clutch will be fine, unless your really wanting to add some engine mods to your car. I wouldn't go anything else unless your big into it.

 

I'll add my $.02.

Do NOT buy a Spec Stage 1 unless you like your clutch to slip between redline shifts. UNCDood can vouch for this too.

After this Spec bites the bullet I'll be going back to OEM nissan with my fidanza.

 

y shudnt i ? our clutches are great for i/y/e/ and ecu ? arent they ?

i hurd puttin a stage 1 is gunna mess up da tranny cuz itz too much , im only gunna be pushin out like 210 or sutin close to there to da whells. and da stock clutch is fine. lemme kno guys on wha u think. whats s0o0o wrong with the key value kit ?

 

OEM NISSAN CLUTCH parts are fine. Key Value Kits parts are crap. Make sure you get the right one

 

OEM is the best clutch unless you are going Forced induction and/or big nitrous. Yes make sure it is not the Key Value, and for that price it probably is. That one is not good at all. It will not last and is not strong. Jerry Rome Nissan can get you a true OEM for less than $200.

For other options on clutches.
http://maxmods.dyndns.org/index.php?MaximaClutches

Yes and make sure the fluid for clutch is full. It is a "common" problem for the clutch line to start to leak. Mine did.

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/802

I used a SS line from the group deals. You may want to look into it since it is cheaper than the OEM line and is better.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=338081

 

Exedy makes the OEM? Are you sure? My friend has the "OEM replacement" Exedy clutch and it slips constantly. It is not strong at all.

 

Did he install this himself or have someone do it? I had and Exedy clutch at one time.. I didn't have no problem with it slipping. The place he had it done at probably didn't machine the flywheel properly or could have bolted it up incorrectly. There is a proper way to bolt down everything. You have to do a clutch like your doing a Valve cover; criss cross

 

Ummm yeah. Let's see....I change clutch (TO bearing, plate) $100 first. Doesn't fix it. Then I change slave cylinder, $15. Doh! Only cost me a good chunk of time cussing at certain bolts. Well the car has a new clutch! I've done it before....once.