Electrical Problem
Electrical Problem
Hey guys -
About 2 weeks ago my radar detector went nuts and flashed "LOW VOLT", which is a nice feature that it has.
Sure enough the next morning the car would bearly start. So, that morning I went to AutoZone, bought a new battery, and voila! My problem was solved.
Today, the same thing happened. It was raining and I was noticing that my wipers were moving very slowly. About 30 minutes after that, the "LOW VOLT" message re-appeared and now the car won't start.
With a voltmeter, I tested, and from the positive to negative terminals with the car running I get about 11.4V. With the car off that slowly climbs, however it won't start. I pulled out the battery that I thought went dead about 2 weeks ago, and it tested with 12.3V. Put that in and the car starts right up, but the voltage drops to around 11.3V or so almost right away, and slowly falls.
I then tested the voltage between the negative terminal on the battery, and the output of the alternator, and only get about 10.4V.
Does this mean my alternator is dead?
Thanks!
About 2 weeks ago my radar detector went nuts and flashed "LOW VOLT", which is a nice feature that it has.
Sure enough the next morning the car would bearly start. So, that morning I went to AutoZone, bought a new battery, and voila! My problem was solved.
Today, the same thing happened. It was raining and I was noticing that my wipers were moving very slowly. About 30 minutes after that, the "LOW VOLT" message re-appeared and now the car won't start.
With a voltmeter, I tested, and from the positive to negative terminals with the car running I get about 11.4V. With the car off that slowly climbs, however it won't start. I pulled out the battery that I thought went dead about 2 weeks ago, and it tested with 12.3V. Put that in and the car starts right up, but the voltage drops to around 11.3V or so almost right away, and slowly falls.
I then tested the voltage between the negative terminal on the battery, and the output of the alternator, and only get about 10.4V.
Does this mean my alternator is dead?
Thanks!
yeah sounds like the alternator, one way you can check is start the car and let it run for a while, then disconnect the battery. if it dies your alternator is bad and if it keeps running you may have another problem but you can give that a try
Originally Posted by zack342
yeah sounds like the alternator, one way you can check is start the car and let it run for a while, then disconnect the battery. if it dies your alternator is bad and if it keeps running you may have another problem but you can give that a try
Yup, the alternator is kaput. It's amazing your car managed to keep running for two weeks without it happening again. That's a great battery.
The voltage you measured at the battery with the car running should have been tested with the engine revved a little bit, like 1500 RPM's just to ensure that everything is running at optimal revolutions. In either case, you should have gotten 13v at idle and +14v at optimal RPM's.
The readings you got were extremely low, that alternator is shot.
The voltage you measured at the battery with the car running should have been tested with the engine revved a little bit, like 1500 RPM's just to ensure that everything is running at optimal revolutions. In either case, you should have gotten 13v at idle and +14v at optimal RPM's.
The readings you got were extremely low, that alternator is shot.
Originally Posted by Igobuk
Yup, the alternator is kaput. It's amazing your car managed to keep running for two weeks without it happening again. That's a great battery.
The voltage you measured at the battery with the car running should have been tested with the engine revved a little bit, like 1500 RPM's just to ensure that everything is running at optimal revolutions. In either case, you should have gotten 13v at idle and +14v at optimal RPM's.
The readings you got were extremely low, that alternator is shot.
The voltage you measured at the battery with the car running should have been tested with the engine revved a little bit, like 1500 RPM's just to ensure that everything is running at optimal revolutions. In either case, you should have gotten 13v at idle and +14v at optimal RPM's.
The readings you got were extremely low, that alternator is shot.
Once I get it started, I'm off to get a new alternator.
Well, you've been running that battery hard and since the alternator isn't charging it... it most definitely is not up to full power. Although it measures 12.2v, it most likely isn't putting out enough amps to crank the starter. The starter needs a good amount of amps to turn the engine over. The only way to test amps on the battery would be to take it to AutoZone unless you have a load tester which is very rare for regular people to have. The load tester is the little machine AutoZone would use to test it.
I'd say, take out your old alternator, get a ride to AutoZone or wherever and get a new alternator and give them your old one for core credit. Go back home, put in the new alternator and then jump start the car. Once the car is running, test the voltage across the battery like I said above and you'll see the new voltage is at mid 13's to 14's depending on the RPM's. Now go for a nice drive on the highway, maybe a half hour to fully charge it. Try and not use any accessories you don't need and try to avoid stop and go traffic because the RPM's need to be above idle. If you have a charger for the battery, you can do that too instead of the drive. Just if that you are going to use a charger, do it with the car OFF.
Good luck.
I'd say, take out your old alternator, get a ride to AutoZone or wherever and get a new alternator and give them your old one for core credit. Go back home, put in the new alternator and then jump start the car. Once the car is running, test the voltage across the battery like I said above and you'll see the new voltage is at mid 13's to 14's depending on the RPM's. Now go for a nice drive on the highway, maybe a half hour to fully charge it. Try and not use any accessories you don't need and try to avoid stop and go traffic because the RPM's need to be above idle. If you have a charger for the battery, you can do that too instead of the drive. Just if that you are going to use a charger, do it with the car OFF.
Good luck.
Originally Posted by Igobuk
Well, you've been running that battery hard and since the alternator isn't charging it... it most definitely is not up to full power. Although it measures 12.2v, it most likely isn't putting out enough amps to crank the starter. The starter needs a good amount of amps to turn the engine over. The only way to test amps on the battery would be to take it to AutoZone unless you have a load tester which is very rare for regular people to have. The load tester is the little machine AutoZone would use to test it.
I'd say, take out your old alternator, get a ride to AutoZone or wherever and get a new alternator and give them your old one for core credit. Go back home, put in the new alternator and then jump start the car. Once the car is running, test the voltage across the battery like I said above and you'll see the new voltage is at mid 13's to 14's depending on the RPM's. Now go for a nice drive on the highway, maybe a half hour to fully charge it. Try and not use any accessories you don't need and try to avoid stop and go traffic because the RPM's need to be above idle. If you have a charger for the battery, you can do that too instead of the drive. Just if that you are going to use a charger, do it with the car OFF.
Good luck.
I'd say, take out your old alternator, get a ride to AutoZone or wherever and get a new alternator and give them your old one for core credit. Go back home, put in the new alternator and then jump start the car. Once the car is running, test the voltage across the battery like I said above and you'll see the new voltage is at mid 13's to 14's depending on the RPM's. Now go for a nice drive on the highway, maybe a half hour to fully charge it. Try and not use any accessories you don't need and try to avoid stop and go traffic because the RPM's need to be above idle. If you have a charger for the battery, you can do that too instead of the drive. Just if that you are going to use a charger, do it with the car OFF.
Good luck.
Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 47
Before you do anything else, go to your local Nissan dealer and see if your alternator is subject to a recall. They will know by you VIN number, and whether it needs replacing by the colour of the sticker on your alternator. Both of my '98 Maximas got brand new alternators, thanks to the recall, and they both had a green sticker on them. Could save yourself some money, and the time, 'cos it's done by them!! Good luck, and happy driving.
98 Black on Black SE Auto, and 98 Silver on Black SE Manual (with good alternators)!
98 Black on Black SE Auto, and 98 Silver on Black SE Manual (with good alternators)!
Originally Posted by 98BLKONBLKSE
Before you do anything else, go to your local Nissan dealer and see if your alternator is subject to a recall. They will know by you VIN number, and whether it needs replacing by the colour of the sticker on your alternator. Both of my '98 Maximas got brand new alternators, thanks to the recall, and they both had a green sticker on them. Could save yourself some money, and the time, 'cos it's done by them!! Good luck, and happy driving.
98 Black on Black SE Auto, and 98 Silver on Black SE Manual (with good alternators)!
98 Black on Black SE Auto, and 98 Silver on Black SE Manual (with good alternators)!
Replaced the alternator last night, and all is good today. Thanks guys.
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