Control arm Bushings
#1
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Control arm Bushings
Did some much needed work on my max today. I put in new KYB GR2 struts, Replaced the control arm bushings with Energy Suspension ones, New CV Shaft on the pass side and a FSTB. WOW it's like having a new car. The control arm bushings where really wasted bad at 165k. I did everything myself for a total cost of $250
#7
Originally Posted by Adrian112597
I went on the Energy Suspension website and couldn't find the bushings for my car, I can't find them anywhere. I know I need them bad too.
I also have to replace mine, but not sure how hard it'll be
#9
I just called Nissan and they said that the lower control arm bushings cant be replaced, we would have to order replacement lower control arms. The only bushings that could be replaced for Gen 4 are the Stabilizer link bushing (2 per side) and the Stabilizer bushing itself (1 per side).
#10
Originally Posted by JaTaN
http://www.suspension.com/nissancars.htm
I also have to replace mine, but not sure how hard it'll be
I also have to replace mine, but not sure how hard it'll be
#11
Haha, I was hoping someone else would know since I never done it I'll look at my Haynes manual when I get home and see if there are good directions in there
Maybe all 3 of us (or more - we can ask in the regional section) can meet up and get it done. With 3 or more people, we should be able to figure it out
Maybe all 3 of us (or more - we can ask in the regional section) can meet up and get it done. With 3 or more people, we should be able to figure it out
#13
Originally Posted by JaTaN
Haha, I was hoping someone else would know since I never done it
I need to go do some as well... I assume we'll need alignments after this as well... I want to do all the bushings at the same time... its getting cold already though... maybe wait until spring?
#14
I can't wait till spring, my car needs it yesterday. JoeB That link indicates the bushings are for the sway bar, not the control arms. Thats what i was talking about, according to Nissan we have to replace the whole control arm. That could be very expensive. As for the sway bar stuff, I could get that done cheap from my CarX friends.
#15
Originally Posted by Adrian112597
JoeB That link indicates the bushings are for the sway bar, not the control arms.
Maxima 1995-99
control-arm bushing set: 7.3111
sway-bar frame bushings: 20mm 7.5118
#16
The rest of this week looks like 50-60 degree weather, but not sure when the bushings will get here and not sure how it'll be around Thanksgiving weekend. I want to get it done soon, but I'll see how the weather turns out.
The website I gave says:
FRONT END CONTROL ARM BUSHING SET
MAXIMA 1995-99
7-3111 $28.00
The website I gave says:
FRONT END CONTROL ARM BUSHING SET
MAXIMA 1995-99
7-3111 $28.00
#17
I'm all for you guys (JaTaN && Adrian) doing it first and then showing the rest of us how! I need to inspect mine and see if I really need them anyway... with 111k on the max - I'm sure it wouldn't hurt!
#19
just got off the phone with Tom, he told me these are the right bushings for the lower control arms and the only reason nissan nissan doesnt sell them is because they want to make more money. You guys are right. Tom told me to get the old bushings off you need to torch em out and just pop in the new ones.
#20
Originally Posted by Adrian112597
just got off the phone with Tom, he told me these are the right bushings for the lower control arms and the only reason nissan nissan doesnt sell them is because they want to make more money. You guys are right. Tom told me to get the old bushings off you need to torch em out and just pop in the new ones.
JaTan - let's go chase down Adrian - up in Palatine.. I'm 20 mins away!
#22
I need to replace both control arm and sway bar bushings. Adrian, see how much the CarX where your friends work charge for it. I'll probably start asking at Midas/CarX/Meineke around here probably tomorrow or Wednesday.
#24
Just got home. Tried calling them right now, but I'm getting the busy signal. I'll keep trying every few minutes and place the order today
EDIT - just placed the order. They'll ship it tomorrow and it'll be here in like 5 days
EDIT - just placed the order. They'll ship it tomorrow and it'll be here in like 5 days
#25
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Posts: n/a
I did not have to burn mine out. The factory bushing have a metal sleeve on both the inside and outside of the bushing. My rubber was so shot I just pulled them apart and cut the sleeves with a sawzall a little. Taped it a few times with a hammer and chisel and they poped right out. When you do I recommend pulling out the 6 big bolts under the car and taking the whole arm off (with the front pivot arm) so you can work in a vice. It will also require poping the lower ball joint and disconnecting the sway bar link. I should have brought my digital camera with me and took some pics. Sorry guys
#30
Biggest difference is the inner bushing
The bushing that will make the biggest difference in ride/steering is that big one at the inner end of the control arm. I recently has to replace my lower control arms (due to worn out ball joints) and my mechanic accidently used the stock bushings. The steering felt sluggish, and after checking, I realized what had happened so I brought it back and had him put the Energy Suspension bushings in. Huge difference, the steering felt really tight and precise. I didn't really feel a major difference between the stock end link bushings and the ES ones, or the other bushings (don't know what the other ones are called).
#31
Just wanted to chime in since control arm bushings have been my life for 2 weeks. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=351814
Taking off the 3 bolts holding the arm is easy. Just be careful as I found my bolts closest to the outside very worn due to thread shear. Loosening up the strut knuckle bolts can help too. On the ES bushings, make sure you use the washers they supply intstead of the OEM triangle ones. They're 1mm smaller in inner diam (17.7mm vs 18.7mm) and round not triangular for more strength. 4 total, one each end, each arm. Adding, subtracting, changing the washers can screw up your alignment. My camber remained constant but my toe varied by as much as 3deg afterwards.
Taking off the 3 bolts holding the arm is easy. Just be careful as I found my bolts closest to the outside very worn due to thread shear. Loosening up the strut knuckle bolts can help too. On the ES bushings, make sure you use the washers they supply intstead of the OEM triangle ones. They're 1mm smaller in inner diam (17.7mm vs 18.7mm) and round not triangular for more strength. 4 total, one each end, each arm. Adding, subtracting, changing the washers can screw up your alignment. My camber remained constant but my toe varied by as much as 3deg afterwards.
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