this cannot work can it? this is a joke!? any thoughts (long)
04-16-2001, 10:13 PM
#1
http://www.maximadriver.com----> go to the how2 section
1-Find a vacuum hose that is "on" at idle (pulling vacuum), and also has plenty of loose length (~6" or more). I used the one that goes into the MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor, located at the right front of the front cylinder bank. It's the one labeled "boost sensor" here. See the vacuum line plugging into the bottom of it? Disconnect that one. That's the end you're going to dip into the water/solvent. There's a good 9" of free length on that line, enough to do what you need to do.
2-Fill up a cup (~8-10 ozs) of deionized/drinking water (not tap!-crap inside!).
3-With the engine idling, dip the vacuum hose into the cup. Manually rev the motor to keep the engine from quitting. The engine will run really poorly at this point. Hold the line in the water for a few seconds and continue to throttle. Remove the line and let the engine clear out the water inside it until it runs smoother again. You'll see lots of water vapor coming out of the tailpipe during this also. "Steam clean".
4-Continue to repeat step 3 until all the water is gone.
5-When done with the steam clean, get a bottle of Chemtool cleaner or like (basically carb cleaner/throttle body cleaner, only something with an open top to dip the vacuum hose into). Continue steps 3 and 4, only using the solvent this time.
5-When done, let the car idle for 5-10 minutes to clear out any remaining junk.
My car has noticeably better power than before. Much better...I'm very surprised. The engine also runs much smoother, and idles smoother with less jumping of the tach.
My car has 76K miles, and it made quite a difference. If you guys are at all mechanically inclined, I recommend this highly!
1-Find a vacuum hose that is "on" at idle (pulling vacuum), and also has plenty of loose length (~6" or more). I used the one that goes into the MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor, located at the right front of the front cylinder bank. It's the one labeled "boost sensor" here. See the vacuum line plugging into the bottom of it? Disconnect that one. That's the end you're going to dip into the water/solvent. There's a good 9" of free length on that line, enough to do what you need to do.
2-Fill up a cup (~8-10 ozs) of deionized/drinking water (not tap!-crap inside!).
3-With the engine idling, dip the vacuum hose into the cup. Manually rev the motor to keep the engine from quitting. The engine will run really poorly at this point. Hold the line in the water for a few seconds and continue to throttle. Remove the line and let the engine clear out the water inside it until it runs smoother again. You'll see lots of water vapor coming out of the tailpipe during this also. "Steam clean".
4-Continue to repeat step 3 until all the water is gone.
5-When done with the steam clean, get a bottle of Chemtool cleaner or like (basically carb cleaner/throttle body cleaner, only something with an open top to dip the vacuum hose into). Continue steps 3 and 4, only using the solvent this time.
5-When done, let the car idle for 5-10 minutes to clear out any remaining junk.
My car has noticeably better power than before. Much better...I'm very surprised. The engine also runs much smoother, and idles smoother with less jumping of the tach.
My car has 76K miles, and it made quite a difference. If you guys are at all mechanically inclined, I recommend this highly!
04-16-2001, 10:39 PM
#2
It does work. Pretty much what they do when you take it to a shop. They use a machine to pump solvent through your engine, cleaning the carbon deposits. Why wouldn't it work? Lots of people have used this trick.
04-17-2001, 02:49 AM
#4
i think i've heard daniel b martin's opinion on this. It was something like: don't put water in your engine and don't try to fix something that is not broken.
Daniel, if i do this anyway against your word, if done carefully, can it harm my engine?
Daniel, if i do this anyway against your word, if done carefully, can it harm my engine?
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