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best way to wire the mevi

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Old 11-19-2004, 07:16 AM
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best way to wire the mevi

I've read that some people's mevi wasn't working properly and it wouldn't open under load so i just wanted to know the best way to wire up the vacuum switch and canister. Where is the best place to draw for the manifold vacuum and how should i wire everything else??
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Old 11-20-2004, 08:52 AM
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anyone?????
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Old 11-20-2004, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by abci30
I've read that some people's mevi wasn't working properly and it wouldn't open under load so i just wanted to know the best way to wire up the vacuum switch and canister. Where is the best place to draw for the manifold vacuum and how should i wire everything else??
I was told the best place to pull vacuum from is the FPR and that's where I'm pulling mine from. What are you using to activate the switch?
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Old 11-20-2004, 09:44 AM
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i'm going to be using a harlan switch. i have the nissan vac canister. having trouble getting the map switch.
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Old 11-20-2004, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by abci30
i'm going to be using a harlan switch. i have the nissan vac canister. having trouble getting the map switch.

The Harlan switch is the most common source of MEVI activation problems. I'd seriously reconsider that choice. My switch didn't work 100% of the time since the time it was brand new, and eventually didn't work at all. I put in the summit racing switch and problems disappeared. The culprit of the MEVI not opening under load is a bad check valve, usually a result of people relying on the check valve which is in the canister. Just adding a $.99 check valve in line with the usually malfunctioning Napa canister valve solves that problem. Another common problem is the Napa Canister itself leaking because they are cheaply made plastic. Might be better to go with an OEM vac canister, though my canister personally never leaked (though the check valve did quit working).

Basically the deal is this. Initially when people are having problems it's because they are hooking something up incorrectly. After that though, the use of certain components which fail cause more problems.

To find a MAP switch/solenoid, go to a junkyard where they let you walk around and look at the cars yourself. Pretty much every single car there will have one somewhere. 4th gen Maximas themselves have at least 3 that I know of. I personally got mine off a Mazda MX3, it was in a pretty easily accesable place. I just took a screwdriver, pliers, and wirecutters with me, and was able to pull one in like 1 minute after I found one I could get to.
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Old 11-20-2004, 04:18 PM
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i think i got a map switch, not sure i'll try to post a picture of it. i guess i will try the harlan switch first and its being retarded i'll get the summit. I waited months for this dang rpm switch and it doesn't work i'll be pretty upset.
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Old 11-26-2004, 09:58 PM
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so where exactly do i get the tach input from to get the rpm switch to work?
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Old 11-27-2004, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by abci30
so where exactly do i get the tach input from to get the rpm switch to work?
With the harlan switch you can set it to "coil per cyl" setting and take the signal directly off one of the ignition coil wires which I found to be easiest. The other ways to take the signal are to set it to 6 cyl operation and take the signal from the TAM screw in the back of the guage cluster, or splice into the rpm signal wire in the wiring harness at the ECU. When I used my harlan switch I took it off the coil pack because that was easiest. After I got tired of the harlan switch sucking and got the summit, I took it off the rpm signal wire at the ECU harness because the summit switch cannot be run off a single cylinder coil. You have to use either the TAM screw or the ECU rpm signal wire for the summit switch.
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Old 11-27-2004, 11:47 AM
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so any coil would work? and which wire?
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