470k Resistor
#1
470k Resistor
I read the thread about switching out the knock sensor with a 470K resistor. Any chance that anyone has a picture of it? Also where can I buy it? I know nothing about electronics and wanted to see if I could do this modification to my maxima.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
Originally Posted by 19maxima95
I know nothing about electronics and wanted to see if I could do this modification to my maxima.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#6
I didn't notice that I posted it twice. My bad. I run premium fuel on my Max and I really don't feel like replacing the knock sensor, if it begins to ping out I'll disconnect it. As for now, I like this idea.
#7
I did this last week. It definitely worked, the car pulls much better now with no adverse affects and the ECU shows 0505, no codes.
I use 93 Octane, 94 sometimes and so far no knocking noises. I don't plan on keeping my car like this, it's just until after the holidays and I get squared away again with my financial stuff. It's definitely a good temporary fix as long as your car is well maintained with good fuel, plugs, etc.
Find the knock sensor, follow the harness from the knock sensor to the car's wiring. Unplug at the car's wiring. Now leave this harness that goes to the knock sensor aside and insert a 470K resistor in it's place on the car's wiring side. Secure with electrical tape and done.
$1 fix at Radio Shack until you can pay $85+ isn't bad. Just don't leave it like this as you have no safety in case you get bad gas somewhere. But should you hear some knocking, pull over, pull out the resistor and the car will go back into safe mode.
No worries.
I use 93 Octane, 94 sometimes and so far no knocking noises. I don't plan on keeping my car like this, it's just until after the holidays and I get squared away again with my financial stuff. It's definitely a good temporary fix as long as your car is well maintained with good fuel, plugs, etc.
Find the knock sensor, follow the harness from the knock sensor to the car's wiring. Unplug at the car's wiring. Now leave this harness that goes to the knock sensor aside and insert a 470K resistor in it's place on the car's wiring side. Secure with electrical tape and done.
$1 fix at Radio Shack until you can pay $85+ isn't bad. Just don't leave it like this as you have no safety in case you get bad gas somewhere. But should you hear some knocking, pull over, pull out the resistor and the car will go back into safe mode.
No worries.
#9
I've had this "mod" for over 5yrs, my car has 242,000 miles and no issues so far. Again, I've always used Sunoco 94 and listened for knock (never had), but each car is different. It's a personal choice, I made the decision because I refused to pay the stealership that kinda money for a damn part that is likely to fail again.
#11
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,204
Originally Posted by 95bluse
I've had this "mod" for over 5yrs, my car has 242,000 miles and no issues so far. Again, I've always used Sunoco 94 and listened for knock (never had), but you each car is different. It's a personal choice, I made the decision because I refused to pay the stealership that kinda money for a damn part that is likely to fail again.
Some states only have 91 octane fuel and their average ambient temperatures are much higher. Using a resister to replace the knock sensor under these conditions is foolish.
If you have a modified ecu with more aggressive ignition timing, and you use this resistor mod, then you deserve whatever happens.
#12
Originally Posted by eng92
You like myself are up in Canada where higher octane fuels are readily available and the average ambient temperatures are typically much cooler than in the southern states. With these factors and the fairly conservative stock ignition timing, you can probably get away with it.
Some states only have 91 octane fuel and their average ambient temperatures are much higher. Using a resister to replace the knock sensor under these conditions is foolish.
If you have a modified ecu with more aggressive ignition timing, and you use this resistor mod, then you deserve whatever happens.
Some states only have 91 octane fuel and their average ambient temperatures are much higher. Using a resister to replace the knock sensor under these conditions is foolish.
If you have a modified ecu with more aggressive ignition timing, and you use this resistor mod, then you deserve whatever happens.
#13
I run 93 octane regularly here, and every other fillup I drop in an STP octane booster just for the hell of it. Now what I don't understand is how to plug the resistor. I saw the picture that Radio shack has, and it looks like a long cable with a bulge in the middle. do I have to bend it to get the 2 connectors to hook up in the harness?
Thanks
Thanks
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
I put a resister in my car when my KS died on me. Made a big improvement over a bad one but when I installed the new knock sensor my car ran even better. Just spring for the money and fix it right. Both you and your car will be much happier. $85 and 15 min of your time it's a pretty minor repair.
#15
Originally Posted by 19maxima95
I run 93 octane regularly here, and every other fillup I drop in an STP octane booster just for the hell of it. Now what I don't understand is how to plug the resistor. I saw the picture that Radio shack has, and it looks like a long cable with a bulge in the middle. do I have to bend it to get the 2 connectors to hook up in the harness?
Thanks
Thanks
#18
Originally Posted by 19maxima95
I run 93 octane regularly here, and every other fillup I drop in an STP octane booster just for the hell of it. Now what I don't understand is how to plug the resistor. I saw the picture that Radio shack has, and it looks like a long cable with a bulge in the middle. do I have to bend it to get the 2 connectors to hook up in the harness?
Thanks
Thanks
#19
Originally Posted by FazliS85
You can drop a STP octane booster everytime you fill up, which is about $4.99 and will cost you more than $85 a year but you cant buy a knock sensor which is intended for the car. Home made intakes i can understand, but this is asking for it. anyways its ur car
#21
I really did not feel as though I had a choice. Mine was dead since I acquired my car, so wiring in the resistors made a MAJOR difference (no more stored codes or anything, either!) Taking the car to Nissan originally, I was quoted at least $900 to replace the knock sensor. Why? Because my car is California-emissions spec. I looked at the Haynes manual and realized that because of all the extra (CRAP) er... emissions equipment, I would have to remove the entire upper intake manifold to replace the damned sensor. So only 91-94 goes in the tank while the resistor is hooked up. Weigh these costs, and if you do it, for God's sake don't go cheap on the gas or inattentive on your Max
#22
I've had the resistor 'mod' for a year now. I got the new knock sensor but thought that the install would require the full intake manifold removal... I measured the resistance across a good sensor and bought the closest resistor to it. It stopped the computer using the default safe timing map, and I just listened to the engine to make sure there was no audible knock.
I just installed the new sensor a few minutes ago so no more resistor mod!
I just installed the new sensor a few minutes ago so no more resistor mod!
#23
sorry for hijacking your thread a bit, but i can't find anything higher than a 100K resistor.......it most certainly has to be 470K to work, right?
i have to do this temporarily because the lack of low end power sometimes is aggravating......i put 112K miles on my 85 merkur without a KS at all....oversensitive....i was running 18psi with a t4 and running 12's with it....a pretty extreme setup.....stays in the 90's all summer too, but never had any detonation......i really think people are TOO paranoid about the whole thing......it's not THE END like people think...a lot of times, you hear, fix and have no more problems.....got rid of it on my h22a accord running 11:1 CR too, no problems......gonna do it on the maxima for a while i guess
seen 3 engines for $300 or less with 90K or less on them......if it came to that....
i have to do this temporarily because the lack of low end power sometimes is aggravating......i put 112K miles on my 85 merkur without a KS at all....oversensitive....i was running 18psi with a t4 and running 12's with it....a pretty extreme setup.....stays in the 90's all summer too, but never had any detonation......i really think people are TOO paranoid about the whole thing......it's not THE END like people think...a lot of times, you hear, fix and have no more problems.....got rid of it on my h22a accord running 11:1 CR too, no problems......gonna do it on the maxima for a while i guess
seen 3 engines for $300 or less with 90K or less on them......if it came to that....
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
CAN-Toronto FS: Basement cleaning
knight_yyz
5th Generation Classifieds (2000-2003)
12
11-01-2015 01:34 PM
Turbonut
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
46
10-21-2015 08:28 PM
bryants95max
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
10
10-02-2015 12:52 PM
ballerchris510
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
17
09-23-2015 08:46 PM