Need help ASAP!!!!
Need help ASAP!!!![Update..Car is fixed]
Ok i got my heat problem fixed [new radiator] but now i have this problem where the car won't go over 2k rpm. It started right afetr my radiator hose blew this morning and i was thinking that stuff got wet and it would go away once everything dried off, but it hasn't. If i try to gun it the motor just bogs down and starts bucking like crazy as soon as i get near 2k rpm. If i just slightly apply the gas and crawl up to the speed limit it is fine but anywhere near the 2k rpm and it just starts bucking and bogging like crazy. I opened the hood after driving around for about 45 minutes hoping anything that was wet would dry off from the heat of the engine but it's still doing it and everything looks dry. Any help would be appreciated.
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 24
is there any coolant missing, i had a similar experience with a civic when i had a blown head gasket due to over heating. coolant was spilling into my cylinders and cause my car to bog, i hit higher rpms but felt a lot of bogging. This is just a thought because you car overheated.(it overheated right?)
No i took it to the mechanic and they replaced the radiator. I pulled right over when the hose blew off and drove about 1/2 mile home and it didn't overheat. As soon as the hose blew thats when the studdering and bogging started to happen. The engine sounds and runs perfect until i accelerate to 2k rpm then it just goes crazy. Even just throttling it without being in gear it does it.
Just found this on another site....so you could be right .dennisadhs.........what do you all think?
Air Flow Meter [MAF]
The air flow meter is of the mass sensing type. There is a thermisistor in the air path which keeps tabs on the temperature of the intake air. To measure the actual mass, there is a small very fine wire strung in a square shape standing on a corner. A current is passed through this wire, heating it. The inrushing air cools the wire - the more air that passes over the wire the cooler the wire becomes. The resistance of the wire of course changes with temperature, the computer keeps tabs on the current dram of the wire.
The most common syptom of failure is that the engine will idle perfectly, but will not rev over approximately 2000 rpm.
The wire gets stuff on it while operating, which impedes heat transfer so the wire cleans itsself each time the engine is shut down. The computer puts enough current through the wire to heat it until it's white hot, which presumably burns off any stuff from the wire. On turbos the wire is only cleaned if the car is under 239F, has been above 1500rpm, and has been driven at more than 12mph. Non-turbos are cleaned when the engine is shut off and it's under 239F and has been run at more than 1500rpm, regardless of being driven or not.
To test your air flow meter, Drive your car around the block. Remove the air filter and the tube leading to the air flow meter WITHOUT shutting the engine off. Be carefull to not let anything get sucked into the engine. Have an assistant turn off the engine while you're looking down into the air flow meter. If the wire doesn't glow, your air flow meter is bad. Rebuilts air flow meters are avilable for about $200.
Air Flow Meter [MAF]
The air flow meter is of the mass sensing type. There is a thermisistor in the air path which keeps tabs on the temperature of the intake air. To measure the actual mass, there is a small very fine wire strung in a square shape standing on a corner. A current is passed through this wire, heating it. The inrushing air cools the wire - the more air that passes over the wire the cooler the wire becomes. The resistance of the wire of course changes with temperature, the computer keeps tabs on the current dram of the wire.
The most common syptom of failure is that the engine will idle perfectly, but will not rev over approximately 2000 rpm.
The wire gets stuff on it while operating, which impedes heat transfer so the wire cleans itsself each time the engine is shut down. The computer puts enough current through the wire to heat it until it's white hot, which presumably burns off any stuff from the wire. On turbos the wire is only cleaned if the car is under 239F, has been above 1500rpm, and has been driven at more than 12mph. Non-turbos are cleaned when the engine is shut off and it's under 239F and has been run at more than 1500rpm, regardless of being driven or not.
To test your air flow meter, Drive your car around the block. Remove the air filter and the tube leading to the air flow meter WITHOUT shutting the engine off. Be carefull to not let anything get sucked into the engine. Have an assistant turn off the engine while you're looking down into the air flow meter. If the wire doesn't glow, your air flow meter is bad. Rebuilts air flow meters are avilable for about $200.
just replaced the MAF and i get the same symptoms......bogging down at 2k rpm's. I got the MAF from a junkyard but do you think 2 of them could be bad? I checked the codes and i got a 0102 = Maf , 0103 = Temp sensor and a 0304 = Knock sensor. i am at my wits end. The car was running perfectly till my radiator hose broke loose and sprayed. What else should i look for?
It is fixed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I came across this while scouring the internet for solutions to my problem.
Once i reset my ecu TWICE! everyhting is back to normal and the car is running awesome, while i had the maf apart i cleaned the TB.....man it was bad! So congradulate me! I am so freakin happy i fixed it 
I came across this while scouring the internet for solutions to my problem.
One other interesting bit (well, I thought it was mildly entertaining at least) I ran across while poring through the OBD section was that the ECM often changes engine behavior when it senses a fault. We've all seen the posts from folks whose engines wouldn't rev past 2400 rpm, for example, and seen them report the bad news their dealers had provided: The MAF gave up the ghost.
Well, that may well be the case, but the fact that the engine wouldn't rev past 2400 rpm is not because the MAF died. It's instead because the ECM sensed a two-trip MAF failure, illuminating the MIL and storing an MAF trouble code. When this fault is detected, the ECM limits engine rpm to 2400 as a "limp home" or self-preservation tool. This is all well and good, but it doesn't necessarily mean the MAF is dead; it simply means that the ECM thinks the MAF is bad. Bringing the car home, yanking the trouble code and clearing it will restore full engine operation until the ECM senses MAF failure again twice. And as anyone who works with computers or other electronic gadges knows, the more complicated the machine the more prone it often is to freak out occasionally with neither rhyme nor reason. Clearing out the code once before taking the car to the dealer and having him take the ECM's word as God's own before presenting you with an $800 bill for a new MAF in this case may well protect your checkbook and your sanity.
Well, that may well be the case, but the fact that the engine wouldn't rev past 2400 rpm is not because the MAF died. It's instead because the ECM sensed a two-trip MAF failure, illuminating the MIL and storing an MAF trouble code. When this fault is detected, the ECM limits engine rpm to 2400 as a "limp home" or self-preservation tool. This is all well and good, but it doesn't necessarily mean the MAF is dead; it simply means that the ECM thinks the MAF is bad. Bringing the car home, yanking the trouble code and clearing it will restore full engine operation until the ECM senses MAF failure again twice. And as anyone who works with computers or other electronic gadges knows, the more complicated the machine the more prone it often is to freak out occasionally with neither rhyme nor reason. Clearing out the code once before taking the car to the dealer and having him take the ECM's word as God's own before presenting you with an $800 bill for a new MAF in this case may well protect your checkbook and your sanity.
Your car probably went into "safe mode" and the ECU needed to be reset for it to get out of it. It's like when something goes wrong and the CEL is on and you have to reset the ECU after you fix the problem for the CEL to go away. Glad it worked out for you 
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