naslime

I know there's a diagram on checking drive belts in the "How To's" but, does anyone have any BETTER instructions? Any warnings, precautions, or anything I should be looking for at all?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

PS. I've done this job on other cars before, I just want to make sure I do it right on my Maxima.

Thanx

twiggy144

The PS pump pulley is hard to get at the bolts to slack it. Try this instead. Cut the old PS belt and remove. Wrap the new belt on the PS pump pulley first, then wrap it on the crank shaft pulley while turning it, as you would re-engage a bicycle chain on the sprockets.

I never tried this, but this is whan the mech at Nissan dealers do.

The serpentine belt idler pulley: I remove the wheel, and the plastic inner fender in the wheel well, (only 4 screws/bolts hold it in place) to have better access to the idler pulley.

naslime

thanx twiggy
anyone else?

naslime

...hello...
anyone out there?!
it only takes a minute ppl

BayareaEMT

I think you are lucky.

I just replaced both the belts on last weekend.

First of all you will have to remove the AC/Alternator drive belt by loosening idler pulley nut and then releasing tensioner from top.

Once that belt is out only then it will be easier to remove the power steering pump belt.

For power steering pump belt removal first of all you will have to loosen up the power steering pump bolt which is in very awkward location. You will need 14mm open wrench. Spray WD40 on that bolt and wait for atleast 15 minutes and then give it a shot. The best place to get to that bolt is by removing right front wheel and then using the gap between rear edge of wheel well and above the steering rod area.

Once you loosen it up you will need to loosen the 12mm bolt which is facing towards the right wheel (look in the diagram at the middle figure at top). Loosen it atleast by rotating 4 full turns counterclockwise.

Then the last bolt which is upside down and of 12mm size. Remember that this bolt loosens the belt when you tighten the bolt and vice versa. I mean when you turn that bolt clockwise (tight) then it loosens the belt. After turning that bolt to its full lenght go and grab the power steering pump from the same area from where you opened the rear 14 mm bolt and push power steering pump downwards and belt should come out easily.

Now put the new power steering belt first on the crankshaft pulley (if you put it first on power steering pulley then you will never be able to slide it on the crankshaft pulley). Then have someone to help you slide the belt over the power steering pulley while you are pushing the power steering pump assembly downwards. Once the belt is in place make sure to see the belt is sitting properly on both the pulley and then push power steering pump upwards with hand force and tighten the rear wheel facing bolt a little bit but not fully tight. Then start tightening the belt by turning upside down 12 mm bolt counterclockwise (loosening the bolt). Once you feel enough tension then completely tighten the 12mm bolt facing towards the right wheel. And then the rear 14mm bolt. Make sure to tighten all bolts to the toque mentioned. I couldn't use torque wrench for the rear bolt though.

Then put on the AC/alternator belt which goes in very easily and tighten idler pulley and then tighten tensioner to get enough tension.

Whole thing took about an hour for me and my bro.

naslime

thanks a bunch, man!
i'm on it

ThurzNite

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, took me about 30-45min doing it the long way. You really can't mess up, just check and recheck the belt tension after a while. Remember, the tension specs are diff for new belt than for worn-in belt. Look it up.
Jae