FishyMan

i cked out the DIY. and i have about 63k, on a 97. i am wondering if i should go through the whoel thing cleaning out the shims, regreasing the pins, etc., it shouldn't be too bad right? any pointers and tips i shoudl watch out? like what if i did wrong? how'd it be and what if i did right? will pedal feel be stiffer?

the only thing is, i dont have a c clamp with me to push back the fluid to proper level, so what can i do about this?

can i change all 4 pads (front and back) and then just take it to a shop to flush and refill brake fluid? or will it be dangerous?

thanks..

*do i need any compound to apply onto anything? like the boltz or whatever??

big_al

You'll need a c-clamp for the front and heavy-duty needle nose pliers for the rear. (To compress the pistons) Get some anti-sieze compound to put on the bolts and between the rotor and spindle. I bought the brake kits from nissan which included new shims and brackets. Grease the pins but not no much.

FishyMan

how big of a c clamp is necessarY? might seem like a dum question, but im gonna go pick one up today..

also can someone tell me the logic of pushing the pisons back in??

thanks..

mzmtg

iTrader: (11)

If you dont push the pistons back in, you wont beable to get the calipers on.

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

When you take the calipers off the rotors, the pistons are set for the old brake pads which are a lot thinner than the new ones.

You need to push the pistons back in order to increase the space between the caliper and the rotor so the caliper will go back on with the newer and thicker brake pads.

Don't forget to open the brake fluid resevoir in the engine bay and put a towel around it. When you push the pistons back in, the excess fluid will get pushed up to there and can overflow.

If you're doing the rear brakes too, while you're at the shop, pick up the little tool they make for turning back the rear pistons. It looks like a little square cube. Should be much easier than trying to use pliers.

FishyMan

i see.. im thinking of doing it myself for the fronts, maybe i'll leave the rears for now, im unsure bout the rear pistons. might have the shop do them.

do u guys know of a decent sized C clamp? i cked out some at checkers and they seemed really small, biggest was 3inch, i guess i have to pick up a 4-5 incher? thanks, still trying to hunt down supplies like the grease. i've only seen multipurpose grade grease, just tyring to find some synthetic. the mobil1 was syn, but didn't say if it was for brakes, anyhow thanks guys..

dlee

Don't forget to check the conditions of the rotors, and clean them with brake cleaner. May not be a bad idea to resurface them even if they seem ok.

Also, make sure you use enough anti-squeak compound. I did my Integra and Maxima with MM. Right front brake of the Integra started to squeak after 5k miles. I think I need to redo it.

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

I think the C clamp I used was a 6". Can't be too sure though. It's somewhere in my parent's garage at the moment.

Just go to Home Depot or Lowes for the C clamp if the autoshop doesn't have it.

FishyMan

thanks guys i found a 4 inch one for bout $5, oh well gonna pick it up.. did u guys apply the anti squeek on ur pads?? how bout rotars any coating? i heard some people say not to put anti squeek on pad. i guess i'll see...

i couldnt' find any grease specific for brakes, all i could find were multi purpose grade.. no synthetic..

thanks.

kickyoazzz

they have a heavy duty c clamp at autozone for about 6-7 bucks.

also, you should grease the caliper pins with high temp grease. pick up a one use packet at autozone for 79 cents.

yes, its a good idea to release the reserve fluid cap, but dont take it off, brake fluid absorbs moisture. if you dont, you may break the master cylinder piston seals and eventually get internal leakage.

FishyMan

u know the part where u grease the pins, for us 97 maximas it says to have some air in the calper pins?? i thought the purpose of the grease was to reduce air getting trapped inside. so i guess air is supposed to be there, but not that much and that the pins have to slide in smoothly. (will multipurpose grade grease work?)

and w/ the c clamp, after i push the piston in, i can release it w/o the piston coming back out right?

thanks..

kickyoazzz

u should read motorvate, it'll tell you everything you need to know...

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/300

FishyMan

that's the one i'm gonna follow tomorrow..

i got some syn brake grease, and it tells me to apply behind the pads?? yet in the DIY it never says specifically to apply grease onto the new pads..

any ideas? so the only regreaseing is the pins and the boots of the pins.

thanks..

FishyMan

bump for grease. do i just use the grease for the pins? do i need to grease the pads or whatever?thansk.

kickyoazzz

which diy are you reading and where does it say to put grease on the pads? never put grease on pads, that causes the brakes to grab. are you reading carefully?

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

the cear the metal parts of rust that the brak pad will touch...lube the pins and lube the h ub before u put rotors on.....also lube the clips on the brackets wehre the pads rest

FishyMan

i see thanks...gotcha on the grease.. i found out my pads aren't worn and have plenty life, however the squeeking and screeching sound bothers me and i disocverd the bleeding bolt cap missing??! i may try the squeek stop stuff, and i am cleaning some heavy black gunk that's building in the brake-wear windonw

do u think this can attribute to my brake fluid dropping low overtime?? i may have to run down to checkers to get a cap for the bleed bolt cuz it doesn't look good if its exposed..

FishyMan

bumps....still got screech. but iwll ck ALL the pads to locate... why is there noise? and drop in fluid??

anyhows thans..