Bonka

iTrader: (13)

I'm looking into getting my auto rebuilt with stronger internals (future boost) and was recommended to order the rebuild kit from Import Performance Transmissions and have a local installer do the labour on it. Has anyone dealt with IPT and how do they compare with NRH as far as the parts being replaced?

Here's the link:
http://www.importperformancetrans.com/nissanauto.shtml

Also I noticed that everyone so far through their posts get the stage II VB mod (boost or non-boost). Has anyone gotten the stage I and would that be adequate enough (regarding reliability) in addition to the rebuilt transmission with a Supercharger application (non-stock pulley)?

I am going to email IPT regarding what is different between the kit itself and the completely rebuilt transmission.

Mods please move this to the appropriate section if needed. Thank you.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Stage III would seem to be more up your alley since you're talking significantly large power adders.

Bonka

iTrader: (13)

I would be going the S/C route no more than a 3.125-3.25" pulley and VI. As this would be my daily driver Stage III sounds like a lot of compromise on tolerable shifts. I wouldn't want to go any further than a Stage II but would prefer a Stage I if a rebuilt with stronger internals is adequate to hold ~250whp/230wtq. That's what I'd like to know.

Torgus

iTrader: (10)

my stage 2 is perfect anything less would be almost nothing at all. looking back i'd get the stage three.

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

stage 3 for everyday driving bro? dam my boy has the stage2 and that necksnapping is kind of annoying

Bonka

iTrader: (13)

Anyone else comment?

Maybe I'll just wait until tomorrow and take a spin in Blackcat's SC auto.

chaz

Does the VB mod help in speeding up the tranny in down shifting, (ie pulling out to pass)? I've got a 2K SE. Where to buy it and is it easy to install? I live in Minneapolis.

CreativeDesignz

iTrader: (3)

DONT DO THE VB MOD!!! it raises line pressure which in turn putsd too much stress on the pump inside ur trans. So in actuality your saving ur clutch packs but wearing out ur pump faster. Spend the 350 and get the stage 2 valve body. I got mine installed yesterday at maximum tuning and couldnt be happier. I got the stage II +, its between a stage 2 and stage 3. I love it and i drive my car every day. Downshifts are sooo much quicker now

BlackCat

iTrader: (6)

Whoa! Another soon-to-be SC'er on the west coast!

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

are you saying?

So get it or DO not... you suggest?

CreativeDesignz

iTrader: (3)

dont do the drop resistor mod******

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

So .. you mean DR mod ...

CreativeDesignz

iTrader: (3)

yes i mean do not do the drop resistor mod. just get a valve body and bite the bullet its only 350 installed from maximum tuning and you wont hafta worry about problems in the future.

BlackCat

iTrader: (6)

After reading IPT's description about sending in the core body it looks exactly the same as the VB Mod from Mobiltek. Am I correct?
I see MaximumTuning does them as well and they're closer (CA instead of NJ).

http://www.maximumtuning.net/


Warren, if you need help with the removal/install I can lend some assistance as I've done the swap all by myself on my car.

Bonka

iTrader: (13)

Yeah they looked the same for me too.

Actually I managed to poke around and find a couple of local transmission shops that work on a lot of transmissions for racing applications. I've yet to find the time to contact them but I would likely have them do the work if their work looks good.

Thanks for the offer Dan, I'm sure I'll need your hand down the road

dr-rjp

iTrader: (4)

You might also try Level 10:

http://www.levelten.com

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

the dr isnt bad once you use it right

CreativeDesignz

iTrader: (3)

mobiltek stopped making valve bodies. and level 10 is knows to shim the stprings in their valve bodies with washers....like home depot washers. Get ur valve body from maximum tuning. its only 350 shipped or 350 installed depending on where u live. Jeff (the owner) was telling me about level 10 and their shady business and i dont think he would try to steer anyone wrong.

CreativeDesignz

iTrader: (3)

the DR mod is bad because you throw a CEL and ur car goes into safe mode. Taking away any gains from shifting faster into retarding the timing and what not. Also your running at full line pressure in your transmission. Also a horrible thing to do cuz the pump in your transmission will fail prematurely. For 350 bux is it really worth the risk of unplugging your resistor and having to get a new trans?
***sorry for the double post

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

WHAT THE FAWK ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT? shut up, just shup up. 350 is for the valvebody upgrade. the DR mod is free, you just cut a wire. and the dr mod is good for the car at WOT so there is less slippage.

2 Da Max

iTrader: (2)

lol retard the timming? where talking about the tranny bro. the valvebody is safer, but you will have neck snapping shifts thats all. our auto cars have a lag in between the shifts because of luxury purposes, and ride comfort. that lag could be bad because it causes wear with the clutchpacks. the valvebody gets rid of the lag, and shifts faster and harder. therefore prolonging the life of a tranny. its basically insurance for your tranny. especially if you think you fawked your tranny up it could help a little.

CreativeDesignz

iTrader: (3)

The resistor being cut throws a CEL, in turn that puts the ECU into safe mode. This causes the ecu to retarde the timing and run extremely rich. I ran with the DR mod at the track in my I30 with a best of 15.7. Next time i went to the track i plugged it back in and i ran consisten 15.5's. Now with my Valve body im running 15.2's consistent. You be the judge, u can call jeff from max tuning and argue with him about it. he doesnt do this for a living or anything and i will not get into an arguement about something i know that im right about. Its proven that ur trans is running at full line pressure. Do u honestly think thats good for the trans going in reverse? OD is the weakest gear in the trans...do u want to be at full lien pressure?..No you dont. Do what u want with ur car i do things right the first time. Stage 2+ VB with B&M transcooler. Good luck to you on whatever you decide

A32Matt

when you have the DR mod wired up right to a WOT switch, how is it running full line pressure all the time? and the only way to have it running full line pressure in reverse is to floor it...what reason do you have to floor it in reverse? what you say really does not make any sense to me.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)