MaXiMaGiRL

ok guys, i have a 95 gxe automatic. da car has a little bit over 155k, but the engine is from a 98 and has something like 99k miles, i already need to change the transmission because the previous owner didnt know how to take care of a beautiful max. everything is broken around the car, nuttin works.

well, the thing is that every morning i have trouble starting the car. even if the car hasnt been turned on in 3 hours, it does the same thing. regardless it's cold or hot outside, which it's usually hot cuz im in miami, the car doesnt turn on. i have to try it like 5 or 6 times, pump some gas, and have my foot on the pedal every time i try turning it on. when i go to work, and im ready to go to lunch like 4 or 5 hours later, that damn thing happens again.

i got the car back in november, and the first thing i did was give it a tune up. i have changed the oil religiously every 3k miles, 3 times already, every single filter is new and even tho i dont have any engine mods, i take good care of it. i put 93 octane and i run it 50 on the streets and 90-95 on the highway.

i changed all 6 spark plugs and put the ones with 2 little endings, i dunno what they are called. i have done everything i can to keep the car running, but i still get the same problem. please help this poor inocent girl with a max.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Faulty crank angle sensor. ?

MaXiMaGiRL

i have changed many sensors already, thinking that that's what it was.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

How about trying to pull codes from the ECU? As for the plugs with 2 little endings....sounds like splitfire plugs. I wouldn't put those in there. The best plugs are the NGK's copper or plats. According to the FAQ, the copper has better spark than plats but lasts half the life of a plat.

MaXiMaGiRL

the ones i have are copper, all 6 of them. but how do you pull out the codes from the ECU?

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

Go here: http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html .

PandaXpress

iTrader: (80)

possibly starter issues in the car?...do you just get 1 clicking noise when you turn the key? cause if you do...its IS the starter

MaXiMaGiRL

i never get clicking noise, i have a while back, but hardly ever happens. what i get is the awful noise of like forcing the car to start. like if the battery was dead, but it isnt. the battery is perfectly fine. please help.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like the Crank Position Sensor, like Jeff said. Or engine coolant temp sensor. It's happening to mine too, the car is hard starting but the engine cranks, just doesn't turn over and finally run. The CEL light came on after a while and its the ECTS. Had it not done that, I'd still be guessing up until this day. I'll be replacing this pretty soon.

MaXiMaGiRL

do you know like how much that is... i mean, what should i buy and how about labor?

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

The best thing to do is diagnose it first, after determining which part(s) is bad, then figure out price and labor. Sensors are generally pretty expensive. And the locations of these sensors are not exactly easy to get to so at least 1 hour of labor. Its just a matter of where you go for that, dealers charge more than independent ones. So you have to do your own shopping.

Batxel

iTrader: (1)

a bad camshaft position sensor can prevent the car from starting as well. The part can be had for about $50 and can be replaced within 10 mins. Mine has ran into problems of not being able to start when then engine was hot every 3 or 4 days.

99se5spd

so are you saying the engine is turning over but slowly? what sort of noise? next time it happens try hitting the starter a couple of times with a hammer or something to give it a good "shock".

shmad

if u park on a hill, let it roll and pop it into first gear. it'll start right away every time. only works on a manual tranny tho...

MaXiMaGiRL

nah, automatic. u see, the sound it makes is like if the battery was dead, but it's perfectly fine. i've check it, and the dots are still green.

nadir_s

if the car starts like the battery is dying .. did you hook it up to a voltmeter and get a reading?

maybe your battery crapped out on you and can't hold a charge. if you haven't tested it or changed it, i think the problem is right there in front of you ...

MaXiMaGiRL

it has been tested twice at the auto part, and the dots are still green.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

Like I said before, this is happening to me too. The same symptoms and all. Why haven't you done what I have instructed? Unless you've done it but haven't told us what you've found. Your just running around in circles with this. Pull codes from ECU. Eventhough the CEL isn't lit, still do it. I've given you the instructions, its easy to follow. You can even have your b/f or friend do it for you.

You seem to have checked everything else that some in here are suggesting, try the simplest thing. Check for ECU codes.

MaXiMaGiRL

oh, honey, thank god is weekend already, you see, i work everyday, so i kinda gotta make some time for it, which will be tomorrow. and by the way, which was your problem when you pulled out the codes?

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

0103 = ects

Check this thread also if you end up getting the same code.

killcrap

iTrader: (3)

get a pressure gauge, and tap one of your fuel lines. and check how much pressure your getting. another thing that usually goes bad

are
Park N/S Switch
Ignition Switch
Inhibitor Switch/Relay
Cam/Crank Sensors
ECTS


check the available voltage at the started. if there is some resistance on the starter wire. then you might be only getting so much voltage to the starter.

WillMax95

could be a bad starter, mine did that, then it wouldnt start at all, not even attempt to turn over.

MaXiMaGiRL

i tried using the ECU thing, but as i read through it, im like, i dont have the engine light on, so i wanted to know if i still should try it.
if that doesnt work, im gonna go with all the other things u guys have told me.

Skiptronic

Yeah you should still do it. Sometimes there are codes but the engine light doesn't turn on.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

Like I have explained before, even if your CEL is not on still try to pull codes off of the ECU. If you get a 05-05 code, then everything is ok with the ECU. Then you can proceed with the other suggestions. I mean it makes sense to do it this way, its the easiest step so why not do the easiest things first and work down towards the harder, more involved diagnosis.

killcrap

iTrader: (3)

next time put your car to WOT and then start her up. then release the gas pedal as the engine starts.

VeN0m

I also have '95 and had EXACT same problems...the solution? replace the starter switch...it's the little white rotator that goes behind the lock under the steering wheel...the problem is a wire with a bad sharp edged solder that "pokes" through the wire next to it, causing a short circuit hence the "like the battery is dead, but not". Replace this and the max will start RIGHT up every time. You can get one of these from the dealer pretty cheap.

Hopes this helps,
Andy

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

"i run it 50 on the streets and 90-95 on the highway."

Man I wish I lived in Miami. Does everyone drive like that? Do the police care?

I can imagine cruisin in the Miami Sun listening to a Heat game going 90+ without worries. Mmmm. Up here in Albany, Ny...75 on the highway is 'pushin it buddy!'

Thakin

Since she's hearing the "awful noise" and she has to put gas into it it has NOTHING to do with the starter, battery, or alternator.

The problem is with the injection system. Alot of the times people totally forget to put in fuel injector cleaner from day 1 and they become more and more clogged, and your car gets harder and harder to start. Try sticking some fuel injector fluid cleaner in your gas tank with a full tank of gas (cleaner - 3$) and see if it gets any better. You should probably notice a difference after 3-5 tanks of gas with cleaner.

-Thak-

Thakin

Or it could be what Venom said. I fixed my problem the way I listed, and it sounds like he fixed his that way. Check em both out. Pm Venom and ask him how much one of those things cost?

-Thak-

VeN0m

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=200696

When it cranks slow like the battery is dead, yet the battery is fine...does it really sound like a fuel injector issue?...sounds completely electrical to me...hindsight is a wonderful thing. I've fixed 3 4th gens that had this problem already. Kind of intresting the new starter switches have the leads soldered at greater distances(wonder why). When a short circuit occurs, current takes that path rather than through the load(starter) and so the starter gets very little juice(hence the slow cranking) so to get it started, one has to rev it some to "balance it out". Also if the fuel injectors were THAT dirty, the car would run like crap the entire time, not just while starting it. Since the switch is only 20-30$ and very easy to replace without getting your hands dirty, I would do it. Considering I had a friend that kept cranking on one of his while I had my head over the starter area to listen and the battery blew up in my face, I doubt it's an injector issue. Might as well clean them any way though, it will run smoother once started.


CORRECTION: What you need is called a "Ignition switch", NOT a "Starter switch". It is located in the steering column and is bolted to the back of the lock mechanism. Very easy to change.

Hope this helps,
Andy