I have the rear valve cover leaking, was planning on changing it this weekend. From anyone's experiences, do the gaskets that seal the plug tubes usually need replacing as well?
Any tricks for removing the manifold?
I do have a Haynes manual, but I still think that it leaves out the little things sometimes that would make repairs easier.
I wanted to shoot the manual when I was replacing my rear brake pads, getting those pistons to retract was awful.

Anyway, thanks.

 

I have replaced my rear valve cover gasket, and its a pain because you have to take of the manifold. Once you have the manifold off its very easy to do. There are a few bolts on the firewall side holding the manifold on that are had to get to but other than that its pretty straight foward. And it would not hurt to replace your spark plug seals while you are in there because I did not do this when I replaced my valve cover gasket and cyl. 1 is letting oil in pretty badly...this may be a project I tackle this weekend as well. Goodluck

 

Everything cardana24 said is accurate. I would definitely recommend replacing the spark plug seals.. they are so cheap - it would be silly not to - especially since its such a a pain to pull the plenum off to begin with. The valve cover job itself is fairly easy. Be careful to make sure the main valve cover gasket doesn't slip/fall out as you put the cover back on the heads. I would recommend OEM parts - best fitment. I wan't too happy with the FEL-PRO kit I ordered (first). The OEM parts will run you about 40 bucks per valve cover (including the spark plug seals, main gasket and valve cover bolt grommets).

The Haynes is a good reference - but doesn't include all the vacuum lines and coolant lines near the TB. If you've never pulled the plenum before, it will be a lot easier if you pull the TB and IACV off first. It makes access to the rear EGR guide tube bolts and plenum bracket bolts MUCH easier. It also gives you the chance to thoroughly clean out the EGR guide tube, IACV and TB.

Cheers and good luck. Take your time - lots of bolts/nuts to undo. I replaced the plenum gasket while I had things open... the labor is the big part of this job - so I figured I'd replace all the gaskets I could (since they are relatively cheap).

 

On the cam humps, you need to use grey permatex sealant or it will leak. Pay attention to the old gasket/cover and you should see some old sealant residue. Apply to the same area to your new gasket. The spark plug seals are not as easy to take off as the Honda/Acura motors. They are pressed in so you need to use a pry bar to pry them out carefully. You a large socket and hammer to press the new ones in.

 

I used a rubber mallet to get the new ones seated. The new ones only need to be pressed in far enough so that the flat surface is flush with the underside of the valve cover - don't seat them all the way into their groove.

Be careful prying the old seals out and while removing any old gasket sealent from the head and valve cover. Its all aluminum - easily scratched - which will prevent the new seals from "sealing" for the lack of a better word.

 

Thanks guys,
I owned a Rotary engine for 9 years previous to buying my max in 99, so some of this work I haven't done before.
I also discovered a leak in my a/c condensor, this weekend, the stop leak crap didn't fix it. So unless the summer cools off quickly I will be doing all sorts of work (for me anyway).
Thanks again