What my mechanic said about replacing knock sensor..
Wow, you pull an old a** thread. There are other cars here that have had this problem of hesitating in the heat. Im not sure 100% but it might have something to do with the either temp sensor or egr valve or iacv. I may be way off but try searching again, instead of using ks to search try your symptoms instead.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 27
KS code is reason
Originally Posted by maximafrenzy
Wow, you pull an old a** thread. There are other cars here that have had this problem of hesitating in the heat. Im not sure 100% but it might have something to do with the either temp sensor or egr valve or iacv. I may be way off but try searching again, instead of using ks to search try your symptoms instead.
my problem with the hesitation hasn't reoccured (thankfully) but the CEL did come back and was wondering if it could actually be the KS or maybe something else... the dealership didnt mention those other items, but will pull codes and see, thanks.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 20
this is a very interesting thread, as everyone I've talked to at the local Nissan dealer tells me not to change my knock sensor. Their reasoning is, that apparently everything goes thrugh the knock sensor. In other words, a bad oxygen sensor triggers a knock sensor code as well. They told me that lots of people buy a knock sensor thinking its bad, and try to return it when they find out it's not. And, in my case at least they happened to be right. I had a CE for a bad oxygen sensor (bank 2, the one with the blue wire) and a knock sensor, so when I replaced the sensor ($125 with discount) and cleared the ecu, no more CE light. I re-checked the ecu recently, and no codes are there at all. I guess they were not lying.
Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 62
i didnt really read all the posts but this is my experience with the knock sensor...i went to my local non-nissan dealer mechanic bc i had a service engine light on. he told me that it would cost $800 to replace becaue it is such a long and annoying process.. i then went to my local nissan dealer and the lady behind the desk told me to forget bout the knock sensor (i was surprised bc dealers try to get all the money they can from you) but she said the knock sensor code is a code that follows other engine errors (o2 sensors, etc)...so she said that it is not worth the fix...i have 152k on my 99 max and this happened a yr ag0/20k miles ago...so i wouldnt worry about the knock sensor...i also heard from other ppl that the knock sensor is not worth the expense...
Originally Posted by max ride 41
waste of time and money. i replaced mine, no codes, 91 octane and no difference whatsoever.
i really dont see why you guys dont go and put in those 99 cent 470k ohm resistors in there instead of buying KS every now and then. I never tried it myself but once i get the KS code that will be my next step.
I scaned my car recently and no faults. I replaced my KS about 6-7 months now. I get 21mpg and i was at the track and pulled 16.28's on all stock auto. I dont know if there is a lost of power or i just adjusted to other faster cars but i feel my maxima is a turd now.
I scaned my car recently and no faults. I replaced my KS about 6-7 months now. I get 21mpg and i was at the track and pulled 16.28's on all stock auto. I dont know if there is a lost of power or i just adjusted to other faster cars but i feel my maxima is a turd now.
Originally Posted by 99Automagic
Fadeaway-
Just pm'd you on how I did the KS on my 99 cali spec today. The frustration factor drove me to smoke a pack of cigs and kick my dog, but it's all done. I gave my dog some treats after too.
Just pm'd you on how I did the KS on my 99 cali spec today. The frustration factor drove me to smoke a pack of cigs and kick my dog, but it's all done. I gave my dog some treats after too.
Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 55
Sometimes the KS code is really throwing an error for the KS. For me, I got the code along with a code for my O2 sensor. However, upon looking at the knock sensor I noticed a huge crack down the middle of it.
So, just because you get one code or multiple codes for the knock sensor doesn't mean the knock sensor is fine. Just shine a flashlight onto it and look at it; check the wires to and from the sensor. That only takes you a couple of minutes.
So, just because you get one code or multiple codes for the knock sensor doesn't mean the knock sensor is fine. Just shine a flashlight onto it and look at it; check the wires to and from the sensor. That only takes you a couple of minutes.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 27
Originally Posted by severino2k
Pulling KS code 0325 for 2 years, CEL has been on for like 5 years w/ no problems. Had below work done recently...(in order)
1: Vehicle Speed Sensor
2: Speedometer
3: MAF Sensor (I did myself with aftermarket from Advanced Auto)
After changing speedometer, CEL disappeared for 1 week, then came back. Car driving ok now, but I haven't had a chance to check for any new codes...
After changing MAF sensor, reset ECU and car seems ok...
My initial problem was car hesitated and was sluggish after car got very hot... I know the 3 things above are very popular items to go in 4th Gen Maximas. I haven't had an extremely hot day since this above work was done, but a couple of days was stuck in traffic while temp was in 80s and didn't have any problems... so far so good.... but...
Any ideas what can be triping CEL ?
Thanks in advance.
1: Vehicle Speed Sensor
2: Speedometer
3: MAF Sensor (I did myself with aftermarket from Advanced Auto)
After changing speedometer, CEL disappeared for 1 week, then came back. Car driving ok now, but I haven't had a chance to check for any new codes...
After changing MAF sensor, reset ECU and car seems ok...
My initial problem was car hesitated and was sluggish after car got very hot... I know the 3 things above are very popular items to go in 4th Gen Maximas. I haven't had an extremely hot day since this above work was done, but a couple of days was stuck in traffic while temp was in 80s and didn't have any problems... so far so good.... but...
Any ideas what can be triping CEL ?
Thanks in advance.
the past few days I was stuck in traffic coming home each day, while temps were in the 90s, and the car was fine. I am convinced the MAF & VSS replacement fixed my problem, but still have to find out what is tripping the CEL again...
Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 93
From: West Chicago
I bought a KS off of ebay and changed it myself with 2 universal swivels and a few extensions all cobbled together on a ratchet. I was having bad stuttering problems and after changing it, the car runs wonderfully. Pulls hard and no hesitation at all.
Originally Posted by chasMAX
The power antenna people at Bridgeport on Ebay sold me my replacement knock sensor (KS) and it has worked out great. Had Nissan emblem on it, very legit.
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 38
From: Atlanta, GA
The URL to the actual item is very long and might be short-lived. So I recommend going to EbayMotors portion of Ebay and doing a search for "Knock Sensor Maxima". The specific item that I bought and have been satisfied with is the ad titled "240SX 300ZX Hardbody Maxima KNOCK SENSOR Nissan OEM A82."
I don't claim to be a guru on the topic, but what I've picked up from other posts is that rarely if ever will the KS code come up alone. It typically seems to show when some other legitimate code is present as well. More than likely you have something else throwing a code as well. For mine, it's EVAP related and I'm still chasing that culprit. But with the replacement of my KS with a new one (the prev one showed cracked housing upon removal, btw), the KS code no longer is there...just EVAP.
I don't claim to be a guru on the topic, but what I've picked up from other posts is that rarely if ever will the KS code come up alone. It typically seems to show when some other legitimate code is present as well. More than likely you have something else throwing a code as well. For mine, it's EVAP related and I'm still chasing that culprit. But with the replacement of my KS with a new one (the prev one showed cracked housing upon removal, btw), the KS code no longer is there...just EVAP.
Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 41
I just replaced mine today. It was the only code my ecu was throwing. Put the new one and and no more codes. It is possible to have a bad knock sensor by itself. It pulls alot harder now all over the powerband. If you have the KS code by itself and the actual sensor casing is cracked then replace it. Be sure not to over tighten it as this will make it too sensitive.
Originally Posted by max ride 41
does 85.00 sound right for the price on the knocker??? how much time to do the replacement?? thanks>>>>
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