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Is $91 reasonable for changing spark plugs?

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Old Aug 19, 2005 | 01:22 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by njmodi
For a 4th Gen a Nissan dealer charges $160-$180 to do the plugs (including parts). I've called many dealers over the past few years (out of curiosity).
I believe they charge $20/plug at the dealer. $20*6=$120 + $40 labor = $160. Bring in your own plugs and I don't see how they could charge more than 1/2 hour for labor.
Old Aug 19, 2005 | 01:24 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by foobeca
I believe they charge $20/plug at the dealer. $20*6=$120 + $40 labor = $160. Bring in your own plugs and I don't see how they could charge more than 1/2 hour for labor.
The dealer service department that I have been to will not install parts I provide.
Old Aug 19, 2005 | 01:27 PM
  #43  
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Then go somewhere else. There's plenty of other places that won't charge you $91 labor for spark plugs.
Old Aug 19, 2005 | 01:31 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by foobeca
Then go somewhere else. There's plenty of other places that won't charge you $91 labor for spark plugs.
I'm not the one with the problem I change my own plugs.. I was just commenting on the "rates" discussion.
Old Aug 19, 2005 | 02:03 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by THEJEFFERATOR
as little as $70 !!!! how many hrs. does the average person work to bring home $70 ? then turn around and pay some mechanic that kinda hard earned money for what probably takes them 15 min...support the common man !!!
My g/f's firm charges over $500/hr. for her services. You better watch it with your response!! *lol* Of that, she probably only gets about 20% or a little more, but she is not hourly. And yes, she makes more coyne than I do!
Old Aug 19, 2005 | 02:05 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by nfafan
And... free shipping on orders over $50.00.
Very sweet. I'm afraid that many, many websites have eliminated free shipping. Gone are the days when I'd get a new microwave/free shipping from Amazon.com!
Old Aug 19, 2005 | 02:05 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by njmodi
That $70/hr has to cover everything, including but not limited to, the rent for the shop, tools, materials (disposables), overhead such as electricty, phone, advertising, wages for the other employees. The mechanic is probably taking home less than a 1/3 of the "hourly" rate charged.
An oil change takes about as long as it takes to change the spark plugs. Based on this logic, an oil change should cost around $100.
Old Aug 19, 2005 | 02:21 PM
  #48  
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Personally, due to my lack of mechanical knowledge and overall trouble learning/understanding technological stuff the money I would save doing it myself is not worth the time, stress, and risk of screwing something up. I wasn't even able to take my damn headlights out on my own! I just try to wait until I have a few things that need to be done so I can condense the labour charges into one shot. My mechanic is a family friend so I trust that he won't rip me off.
Old Sep 21, 2005 | 11:24 AM
  #49  
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Yes, the mechanic go by the time that the book says and not the actual time it takes
Old Sep 21, 2005 | 11:32 AM
  #50  
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$91 is ridiculous. spent $10 and did it myself in 20minutes
Old Sep 22, 2005 | 04:47 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by nfafan
IIRC, the Haynes for my 87 Max had a tip about using a short length of heater hose over the "stem" of the plug; used to allow the finger-starting of the plugs in the deep/hard to reach plug wells on the back of the engine...

As stated - you do not want to run the risk of cross-threading and then tightening the cross-threaded plugs. MAJOR PITA time if you do.

And by all that is right and holy with the world: use anti-seize paste on the plug threads, you'll thank yourself the next time you change your own plugs.
Actually, you can use an old piece of vaccum hose, to get em started.
It's like an extension of your fingers. You can't get a couple of good
turns on the plug and your'e good to go. No way to cross thread em that way.

I'll testify to using the anti seize paste on EVERYTHING you change plugs
on, even if it's not an aluminum head. It's worth both dollars, that it cost.

Hope this helps.
Old Sep 22, 2005 | 09:04 PM
  #52  
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Ohhhhh I give a vote for using anti-sieze compound... not that it's even much of a vote, or argument for that matter.... USE IT. My first car the previous owner was so kind as to throw in some wal-mart plugs without using anti-sieze, and possibly crossthreading it too. It was hard to tell, since I had to drill it out and all. After a good solid turn I heard a *poink* and pull out half of a sparkplug. Yeah my heart sank pretty quick. So if you like having to redrill the holes in your cylinder head and rethread them, then I guess it's not necessary.
Old Sep 22, 2005 | 09:09 PM
  #53  
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yeah man thats too much, i got a full tune up (spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, oil filter, oil change) for $190 with parts and labor
Old Sep 22, 2005 | 09:10 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by euser985
yeah man thats too much, i got a full tune up (spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, oil filter, oil change) for $190 with parts and labor

Lol dude... you can do all that yourself in less than an hour for about $35...
Old Sep 22, 2005 | 09:40 PM
  #55  
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i dunno about you guys, but this thread is making me want to clean my tb and change my oil.
Old Sep 23, 2005 | 07:46 AM
  #56  
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the one thing I would add - if you have never removed your coils before, the connectors can be a bit of a pain if you don't know how to release them. maybe I'm just slow, but it took me a few tries to figure out how to release the damn things.

easiest way is to get a small slotted screwdriver and push the release tab in toward the coil and slightly down - push it all the way in until it clicks and stays in place. I spent 10 minutes trying to do this with my index finger before I realized I needed a tool.
Old Oct 30, 2006 | 01:59 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by s0ber
not really, just get in there, remove 2 coilpack screws, remove coilpack and stick ur extension and 5/8 sparkplug socket in there, no different than the front except a little less wrong but its nothing undoable.
How about the far rear coil/plug (plug 'o' below)? Getting at that requires loosening some intake cable support brackets I recall to make space for tools and pulling the coil & plug out. Are you able to remove this plug without doing so? The other 5 are fairly straight forward.

plug config
x x o (rear)
x x x (front)
Old Oct 30, 2006 | 02:29 PM
  #58  
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Uhhh Can you tell when this thread was started?? A whole year and 2 months ago.
Old Oct 30, 2006 | 04:41 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by kelam
How about the far rear coil/plug (plug 'o' below)? Getting at that requires loosening some intake cable support brackets I recall to make space for tools and pulling the coil & plug out. Are you able to remove this plug without doing so? The other 5 are fairly straight forward.

plug config
x x o (rear)
x x x (front)
Okay...so remove two 12mm nuts from the IA stepper motor mounting bracket to move it out of the way. Now you can get to it.
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