Is $91 reasonable for changing spark plugs?
Originally Posted by njmodi
For a 4th Gen a Nissan dealer charges $160-$180 to do the plugs (including parts). I've called many dealers over the past few years (out of curiosity).
Originally Posted by foobeca
I believe they charge $20/plug at the dealer. $20*6=$120 + $40 labor = $160. Bring in your own plugs and I don't see how they could charge more than 1/2 hour for labor.
Originally Posted by foobeca
Then go somewhere else. There's plenty of other places that won't charge you $91 labor for spark plugs.
I change my own plugs.. I was just commenting on the "rates" discussion.
Originally Posted by THEJEFFERATOR
as little as $70 !!!! how many hrs. does the average person work to bring home $70 ? then turn around and pay some mechanic that kinda hard earned money for what probably takes them 15 min...support the common man !!!
Originally Posted by nfafan
And... free shipping on orders over $50.00.
Originally Posted by njmodi
That $70/hr has to cover everything, including but not limited to, the rent for the shop, tools, materials (disposables), overhead such as electricty, phone, advertising, wages for the other employees. The mechanic is probably taking home less than a 1/3 of the "hourly" rate charged.
Personally, due to my lack of mechanical knowledge and overall trouble learning/understanding technological stuff the money I would save doing it myself is not worth the time, stress, and risk of screwing something up. I wasn't even able to take my damn headlights out on my own!
I just try to wait until I have a few things that need to be done so I can condense the labour charges into one shot. My mechanic is a family friend so I trust that he won't rip me off.
I just try to wait until I have a few things that need to be done so I can condense the labour charges into one shot. My mechanic is a family friend so I trust that he won't rip me off.
Originally Posted by nfafan
IIRC, the Haynes for my 87 Max had a tip about using a short length of heater hose over the "stem" of the plug; used to allow the finger-starting of the plugs in the deep/hard to reach plug wells on the back of the engine...
As stated - you do not want to run the risk of cross-threading and then tightening the cross-threaded plugs. MAJOR PITA time if you do.
And by all that is right and holy with the world: use anti-seize paste on the plug threads, you'll thank yourself the next time you change your own plugs.
As stated - you do not want to run the risk of cross-threading and then tightening the cross-threaded plugs. MAJOR PITA time if you do.
And by all that is right and holy with the world: use anti-seize paste on the plug threads, you'll thank yourself the next time you change your own plugs.
It's like an extension of your fingers. You can't get a couple of good
turns on the plug and your'e good to go. No way to cross thread em that way.
I'll testify to using the anti seize paste on EVERYTHING you change plugs
on, even if it's not an aluminum head. It's worth both dollars, that it cost.
Hope this helps.
Ohhhhh I give a vote for using anti-sieze compound... not that it's even much of a vote, or argument for that matter.... USE IT. My first car the previous owner was so kind as to throw in some wal-mart plugs without using anti-sieze, and possibly crossthreading it too. It was hard to tell, since I had to drill it out and all. After a good solid turn I heard a *poink* and pull out half of a sparkplug. Yeah my heart sank pretty quick. So if you like having to redrill the holes in your cylinder head and rethread them, then I guess it's not necessary.
Originally Posted by euser985
yeah man thats too much, i got a full tune up (spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, oil filter, oil change) for $190 with parts and labor
Lol dude... you can do all that yourself in less than an hour for about $35...
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the one thing I would add - if you have never removed your coils before, the connectors can be a bit of a pain if you don't know how to release them. maybe I'm just slow, but it took me a few tries to figure out how to release the damn things.
easiest way is to get a small slotted screwdriver and push the release tab in toward the coil and slightly down - push it all the way in until it clicks and stays in place. I spent 10 minutes trying to do this with my index finger before I realized I needed a tool.
easiest way is to get a small slotted screwdriver and push the release tab in toward the coil and slightly down - push it all the way in until it clicks and stays in place. I spent 10 minutes trying to do this with my index finger before I realized I needed a tool.
Originally Posted by s0ber
not really, just get in there, remove 2 coilpack screws, remove coilpack and stick ur extension and 5/8 sparkplug socket in there, no different than the front except a little less wrong but its nothing undoable.
plug config
x x o (rear)
x x x (front)
Originally Posted by kelam
How about the far rear coil/plug (plug 'o' below)? Getting at that requires loosening some intake cable support brackets I recall to make space for tools and pulling the coil & plug out. Are you able to remove this plug without doing so? The other 5 are fairly straight forward.
plug config
x x o (rear)
x x x (front)
plug config
x x o (rear)
x x x (front)
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6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
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