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Brake and rotor install questions

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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 05:23 AM
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Brake and rotor install questions

Hey guys I just got four new nissan rotors and I'm going to put them in today, I was wondering if I should get them cut into or is it cool to just put them on right out of the box. Thanks in advance
Old Aug 26, 2005 | 05:29 AM
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From: St Paul MN
Originally Posted by McNasty360
Hey guys I just got four new nissan rotors and I'm going to put them in today, I was wondering if I should get them cut into or is it cool to just put them on right out of the box. Thanks in advance

They should be ready to go, make sure you spray them down with brake cleaner to get that protective coating off.
Old Aug 26, 2005 | 05:31 AM
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ok thanks, I was wondering what that oil was and why they would be on brakes.
Old Aug 26, 2005 | 06:44 AM
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The coating is to keep the rotors from rusting while on the shelf.
Old Aug 26, 2005 | 07:43 AM
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I just got mine replaced 1 month ago. I noticed that the new OEM rotors didn't have the 2 threaded holes on the rotor so that in case the rotor is stuck on the hub, one can screw in a bolt to push out the rotor. The old rotors had them. I thought that was the only distinguishing useful appearance difference between OEM and aftermarket rotors. I guess Nissan wanted to save money by not drilling and tapping two holes on each new rotor.
Old Aug 26, 2005 | 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by mmlloo
I just got mine replaced 1 month ago. I noticed that the new OEM rotors didn't have the 2 threaded holes on the rotor so that in case the rotor is stuck on the hub, one can screw in a bolt to push out the rotor. The old rotors had them. I thought that was the only distinguishing useful appearance difference between OEM and aftermarket rotors. I guess Nissan wanted to save money by not drilling and tapping two holes on each new rotor.
Are you sure? Where did you get the rotors?
Old Aug 26, 2005 | 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by mmlloo
I just got mine replaced 1 month ago. I noticed that the new OEM rotors didn't have the 2 threaded holes on the rotor so that in case the rotor is stuck on the hub, one can screw in a bolt to push out the rotor. The old rotors had them. I thought that was the only distinguishing useful appearance difference between OEM and aftermarket rotors. I guess Nissan wanted to save money by not drilling and tapping two holes on each new rotor.

An anti-seizing agent will take care of that.... Mine came off easily...
Old Aug 26, 2005 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by njmodi
Are you sure? Where did you get the rotors?
I bought them from a nissan dealership in CA. They came in Nissan labeled boxes (rotors/pads), so I didn't think they were aftermarket ones. I did end up applying a thin film of anti-seize compound on the hub. Hopefully that will do the trick.
Old Aug 26, 2005 | 01:13 PM
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thats what hammers are for.....anti-seize is just as good....i also like to derust the hubs with my die-grinder as well
Old Aug 26, 2005 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mmlloo
I just got mine replaced 1 month ago. I noticed that the new OEM rotors didn't have the 2 threaded holes on the rotor so that in case the rotor is stuck on the hub, one can screw in a bolt to push out the rotor. The old rotors had them. I thought that was the only distinguishing useful appearance difference between OEM and aftermarket rotors. I guess Nissan wanted to save money by not drilling and tapping two holes on each new rotor.
Anyone know what size that hole is on the rotors? Mine are stuck on and I need to find a screw to stick in there.
Old Aug 26, 2005 | 02:02 PM
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Rotors just come right off... once you get the caliper and all that off and u got nothing but the rotor... it just slides off... with a great force of course. I had to bang mine with a hammer for a bit to get em off but they came off. Just changed mine last nite. I hope u didnt pay too much for them nissan rotors, as theres a GD for brembo blanks for $36 a rotor....
Old Aug 27, 2005 | 11:43 PM
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Ahh! I got ripped at around $60/rotor (which was already about 25% lower than retail) for the "genuine" Nissan rotor. I suppose it doesn't really make much difference since it's really just a chunk of steel.
Old Aug 28, 2005 | 06:10 AM
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not always

Rotors should come off with a big enough hammer, but it is somtimes hard to get a big enough swing. The bolt hole on the factory OEM's makes it very simple. I could not swing big enough or hard enough to do it with a hammer. I had a spare bolt kicking around that happened to fit.
Old Aug 28, 2005 | 10:21 AM
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Just to add to the above...

De-rust the hub, check/lube the guide pins (had one seize on the GF's car, love that dealer), anti-squeek (if the pad backings are metal), clean it all up and torque the wheel back to specs.
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