Can UDP and sound system work together?
09-03-2005, 01:25 PM
#1
Can UDP and sound system work together?
First of all, how much power if any can you notice in seat of the pants with underdrive pulleys? Is it really worth it or is there a risk of ruining the harmonic balancing of the crankshaft and messing up the engine? (I know that was the case on an E36 BMW)
Secondly, if I would notice better acceleration, is it ok to run the pulley with a powerful sound system? Would I strain the alternator? I do have a power capacitor and an Optima Yellow Top battery.
Secondly, if I would notice better acceleration, is it ok to run the pulley with a powerful sound system? Would I strain the alternator? I do have a power capacitor and an Optima Yellow Top battery.
09-03-2005, 02:07 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 994
the under drive pulley slows down the spining of your accessories. (alternator). im sure you could still run a system though.. just how big are we talking about? and yes getting a cap would be a VERY good idea.. along with a good battery of course
09-03-2005, 02:26 PM
#4
If you have, or are planning to get, a huge stereo set up dont get the UDP. The gain will be small and useless if you are hauling around a heavy system. IMO a UDP is for someone trying to get every last bit of hp out of their car, to make it as fast as possible. Its the very last mod you should do... In my other car the power steering pump went bad so I removed it, eliminating the pully, and noticed no real gain in acceleration, the car felt sportier though.... And that was essentially "underdriving", but a full 100%, weight and rotation 
09-03-2005, 02:39 PM
#5
ok, so a pulley isnt wise for me to get.
It does sound contradictory to have a system and want more speed, but there is a balance in the middle for me. I want it to feel fast and also bump hard.
I have two 12" hollywood sound subwoofers in their own ported boxes and a JBL1200.1 amp. Even with the capacitior my lights dim with the hitting of the bass. I havent noticed as much dimming since getting the yellow top battery... in my E36 the engine idle speed would drop 200 rpm when the bass hit!
It does sound contradictory to have a system and want more speed, but there is a balance in the middle for me. I want it to feel fast and also bump hard.
I have two 12" hollywood sound subwoofers in their own ported boxes and a JBL1200.1 amp. Even with the capacitior my lights dim with the hitting of the bass. I havent noticed as much dimming since getting the yellow top battery... in my E36 the engine idle speed would drop 200 rpm when the bass hit!
09-03-2005, 06:29 PM
#6
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Posts: n/a
Ok a few more questions...I take it your running your system at 1200 watts?
If so I don't think its a good idea to get the pully. Because of the fact that your just running to many watts and your going to be putting ALOT of stress on your alternator. What I would suggest is doing the "BIG 3" also known as grounding the battery to the chassis, alternator to postive battery, and last battery negative to engine block. You really don't need a cap. Its more like a bandade your just hiding the real problem. If you want more information on this, in more detail, I would head into the Audio/Video Forums on this board and ask them. I am almost sure theyll will tell you the same.
If so I don't think its a good idea to get the pully. Because of the fact that your just running to many watts and your going to be putting ALOT of stress on your alternator. What I would suggest is doing the "BIG 3" also known as grounding the battery to the chassis, alternator to postive battery, and last battery negative to engine block. You really don't need a cap. Its more like a bandade your just hiding the real problem. If you want more information on this, in more detail, I would head into the Audio/Video Forums on this board and ask them. I am almost sure theyll will tell you the same.
09-03-2005, 07:05 PM
#8
I've had a 2500W RMS system in my 3rd gen for three years and still the factory original alternator at 225,000 miles.
even with the underdrive pulley on my car, my alternator was still putting out 75A @ 13.4V at IDLE.
rev it up to 2-3000rpm and the thing was dumping out 100+amps at 13.8V.
Do the big 3 on wiring, then stick a 1 or 2 farad cap back there with the amps. no problems with dimming here, even when I'm rattling the sunroof out of my car.
stay away from those 40F "BatCaps" and crap like that.. the ESR is so high on them that they're nothing but small batteries. stay with a good quality, low ESR, electrolytic cap- which typically you never see higher than 2F.
even with the underdrive pulley on my car, my alternator was still putting out 75A @ 13.4V at IDLE.
rev it up to 2-3000rpm and the thing was dumping out 100+amps at 13.8V.
Do the big 3 on wiring, then stick a 1 or 2 farad cap back there with the amps. no problems with dimming here, even when I'm rattling the sunroof out of my car.
stay away from those 40F "BatCaps" and crap like that.. the ESR is so high on them that they're nothing but small batteries. stay with a good quality, low ESR, electrolytic cap- which typically you never see higher than 2F.
09-03-2005, 08:26 PM
#9
If you don't have a y pipe yet I would get that instead of the pulley, that should give you more performance than the pulley and do the big 3 upgrade like sunten1 said that will even help your present voltage issue. If you do decide to go with the pulley you can get your alternator rebuilt to bump up the voltage for about $50. I think with the pulley you lose like around 25 amps but that is only at high rpm, it depends on the stereo amperage needs. Some people said they didn't notice a difference in their stereo.
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