Hey, I recently got my budget y-pipe from an .org member, and tried to put it on myself (a friend of mine has air tools), but there are 2 bolts that I absolutely cannot get to on the stock Y. They are 2 bolts (out of 3) not directly accessible from the rear exhaust manifold. For those who have put the y-pipe on, what tools did you use to loosen these bolts? I don't want to resort to shops, because I don't know the quality of their work, and it will end up costing me more than I expected.

Thanks,
-Freddy

 

Are you talking about the bolts/studs connecting the Y Pipe to the rest of the exhaust? I had to grind them off and go to an auto parts store w/ the remnants of the remaining bolt to find a match.

 

You could try penetrating oil or grease. Like mentioned above if it still won't budge either use extreme torque or just grind it off. Are the bolts rusted in?

 

After rereading, i see that he said 2 out of 3 are unaccessible. Must be talking about rear exhaust manifold bolts. DON'T GRIND THEM OFF!!!!! I didn't have any issues w/ a very long extension and no universal joint. Be easy on them because you don't want them to snap. I soaked w/ penetrating oil x2 4 hours, then immediately before removal and had no issues. I hope you've got it up in the air and you're not lying on your back trying this...

 

Oops I mis-read it also. Do what sabers says. I used air tools too but used a ratchet with an extension for where it connects to the rear header.

 

You will need a universal joint to get at those bolts coming off the rear manifold. The only bolt I had problems with was where it connects to the cat. I had to cut the nut off and retap the bolt threads. Best to have it up in the air if possible, worst case just take it to a muffler shop and have them take the nuts off. It's worth it if you end up stripping it or something.

 

after u take it off, start the car and it will be very loud

 

i'm lying on my back trying this. :-D

 

soak soak soak, lube up for along time then try

 

don't mean to hog the thread, i'm having trouble with the two bolts connecting the Y to the Cat. Theres a **** load of rust. If i grind off both ends of each bolt, should it just pop out? If not, i was thinking of using a screw/bolt extractor kit. Any othe suggestions?

 

By the way is it safe to do that?

 

I remember what a pain those bolts were, but I somehow managed to get them off. Spray them with lots of liquid wrench, use a swivel socket and rachet extension, and hope you are super-elasto-man. I have no idea how Nissan factory engineers originally put the stock y-pipe on considering the amount of room there is to work with.

 

not if u lived next to me....

 

What's up people I'm new to posting here but I've been reading this forum for a couple of months. I have an I30T and want to get one of those Budget Y pipes but I cannot find anywhere that sells them, their website seems to have vanished...How do I go about buying a Budget Y pipe? (the Stillen one is too expensive, even though I'm happy with my Stillen Hi-Flow intake)

 

http://www.lssexhaust.com/ there you go, welcome to the org

 

yes, ive done it many a time. i wouldnt hit the throttle alot tho. it sounds badazz

PB BLASTER - works the best on rusted bolts

 

Thanks for the link awesome

 

I had to remove my stock y-pipe to get to 2 of my rear motor mount bolts in order to take off my subframe to replace the bushings. I had no problem with my impact wrench, long extension, and universal joint

 

If you can get it use Inforce from BG its the best penetrating lube Ive ever found. 10x's better than PBblaster.

How do I get a hold of Budget. Ive tried every phone number I can find for LSS and Budget online and all I get is a fax sound after about 4 rings.

 

On the rear bolts connecting to the cat, I finally just took a grinder to the nuts, got through them and drove them off w/ a chisel. I then back out the studs from the cat and bought new bolts at napa for $4. I was all worried about having to cut up the hanger, then realized my wsp y pipe had new ones. It's great, drove the $(#$% out of it today on the interstate and it feels like a new ride.

Woo Hoo!!

 

no kidding - good to know

 

it sounds like crap. you don't wanna rev it cause it backfires, basically explosions coming from your exhaust manifold.

 

sounds like fun! haha. there is a video of a max with open headers...

found it!

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...=getit&lid=123
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...=getit&lid=122

i hope those work

 

If you still can't them off you can try heating them up with a short blast from a propane burner. If that doesn't work, try taking it to a muffler shop and asking them kindly if they could change the bolts witb new ones and tell them not to make them super tight for a nominal fee.

 

i just used a air chisel and broke that **** loose. then took a tap and dye set and installed the new thread.

i have a problem though, you know that ground wire on one of the cat bolts? well that bolt cant tighten all the way, would i loose power if its just a little space between the flange and cat? i start the car and put my hand around it and noticed no air leaking from it though?

 

i can't get in contact with issexhaust guys either oh well i guees i gotta keep looking for somewhere to get that y-pipe for my i30t...maybe one of you want to sell yours?

 

you would be better off just getting a new bolt fomr like home depot or something so that oyu can tighten it all the way down.

you need a swivel joint for htose rear exhaust nuts.

you can grind off the old cat bolts and replace them with new ones fomr home depot or what ever.

starting your car with no ypipe is the greatest sound ever, especially when you rev it to 6500rpm, the ****ing ground shakes.



edit: hailbert: just get a warpspeed, they are all the same. I think WS is even cheapper then budget.

 

i dont remember how i did it, but i used a cheap ratchet with some joint's so i could bend it a little bit around corners and some how got all the nuts off. and some pb blaster too. but i didnt need a breaker bar for anything, just straight up ratchet.

 

mine sounded nothing like that. not that loopy, maybe cause he has catman headers. but yeh, it was soooo loud, i just reved it once, just a little and turned it off

 

He's got JWT cam's too, hence the loopy sound.

 

you got a pm

 

well, i got that damn y-pipe on, ended up using an air chisel, breaking one nut loose, and just replacing the stud on the other side, drilling a hole, and usin a regular bolt in its place. I have no exhaust leak, and it works fine like that.

I hate exhaust nuts and bolts.

 

i just ordered the y pipe and front strut tower bar for my i30 from lssexhaust...i hope everything goes well...my car is in the shop right now getting a new clutch put on and i got the pcv valve and the air hose from the pcv valve to replace when i get the car back...

 

well, good luck with the y-pipe, it can be a little pain in the a$$ to take out. Make sure the fitment is good on the budget, I got mine when the company was still called "budget", and fitment was near perfect.