It was th PCV valve!!!
09-13-2005, 10:14 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 128
It was th PCV valve!!!
I have been trying to diagnose and fix my maxima for weeks now. It would crank and I would have to push the gas to get it to fire. I noticed with all my mods that I wasnt getting much out of them. I pulled the PCV and it wasnt making any noise at all. With the new PCV in, it starts at the turn of the key and now it hauls some serious ***. Its funny how well the engine can run when it gets air. If you havent changed your PCV lately it is a $5 miracle!!!!!!!
09-13-2005, 10:40 PM
#2
the pcv solved my rough idle. but now my coils are shot, so shaky is back. general question about pcv's Are they just installed as is? I remember when I was replacing it, it didn't seem to have any holes for inlet/outlet. It was just a piece of plastic with a nozzle at one end. can someone straighten me out?
09-14-2005, 09:37 AM
#5
yeah its located by the throttle body, right next to one intake runner there is a hose with a bracket which leads to the rear valve cover. Remove the bolt pull the hose and bingo remove the PCV valve. It should be changed every 3k.
09-14-2005, 10:01 AM
#7
From school. PCV plays an important role. The pcv system provides a continuous flow of fresh air through the crankcase to relieve the pressure and prevent the formation of corrosive contaminants. If the pcv valve becomes clogged, excessive pressure will develop in the crankcase. It could cause oil pan gaskets to slip out of place, could cause oil to go through the intake manifold system. Its important to change it with every oil change. Every 2nd oil change to clean the TB
09-14-2005, 10:30 AM
#8
Originally Posted by SMX95
From school. PCV plays an important role. The pcv system provides a continuous flow of fresh air through the crankcase to relieve the pressure and prevent the formation of corrosive contaminants. If the pcv valve becomes clogged, excessive pressure will develop in the crankcase. It could cause oil pan gaskets to slip out of place, could cause oil to go through the intake manifold system. Its important to change it with every oil change. Every 2nd oil change to clean the TB
What school did you learn this at?
09-14-2005, 10:41 AM
#9
Each car is diff. Certain PCV valves are recommended for 3k changed. Others are recommanded every 10k. Each to his own. I will replace mine every 2nd oil change. Its 4 bucks for a piece of plastic. Yes there is no significant sign of build of the TB there are still maintance guides that show every 10-20k clean the TB. Each car is diff. It doesn't matter what school im going to.
09-14-2005, 10:46 AM
#10
Originally Posted by SMX95
Each car is diff. Certain PCV valves are recommended for 3k changed. Others are recommanded every 10k. Each to his own.
My point is simply to make it clear that there is such a thing as wasteful and pointless maintenance... but it's not money out of my pocket - so as you said, to each his own.
09-14-2005, 12:04 PM
#11
I've heard the PCV should be changed after atleast 15K but I've never heard every 3k, they are cheap enough to change every 3k.
Good information I've never knew that about PCV valves, I havent changed mine period so its going out when I do my next oil change.
Good information I've never knew that about PCV valves, I havent changed mine period so its going out when I do my next oil change.
09-14-2005, 01:09 PM
#13
I have been using Nissan replacements... 8 bucks a piece.. Autozone ones are fine too - but I have found they don't fit quite as nicely... since I only do mine every 15k, I just spend the extra 3 bucks and get the OEM part.
09-14-2005, 01:53 PM
#15
Mine wasn't changed until over 90K miles and it was functioning perfectly still. The parts guy at my local nissan stealership said that it isn't something that should be changed at all EVER at least according to Nissan. I changed mine at 90K anyway and I'll probably never change it again.
09-14-2005, 02:45 PM
#16
Originally Posted by Chief Brody
Where do you guys by replacement PCVs? Is this something you should get factory OEM or is Autozone suitable?
09-14-2005, 03:23 PM
#17
mine was biatch to put bak on, it was Deutsch brand, while i was puttin it bak in it snapped in half, so i just sprayed a crap load of foambrightand all kinds of gunk remover so that pin would rattle again and put the old one bak in, i'll change it next time i decide to mess with the car.
09-14-2005, 06:37 PM
#20
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09-15-2005, 12:51 PM
#21
Just clean it once a year at most. You're throwing money away replacing it all the time. If you know your call well enough, you'll know if it starts running goofy and then ascertain if it's a bad PCV valve. 9 times out of 10, I bet it's not the PCV. There are exceptions as with the original poster, but I wonder if he cleaned it once in a blue moon?
09-16-2005, 07:08 AM
#24
Originally Posted by gtmuggs
I know im due for a PCV valve change then mines hasnt been changed in at least 30,000.......how hard is it to do?
very easy, a set of plyers and a little force. 5-10min job tops.
09-17-2005, 07:35 PM
#30
Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 55
My money is on bad hood shocks. I also have money on he doesn't realize that he can't get that close to his camera and have it focus.
Now my question is.... are PCV valves always supposed to be covered in oil? I changed one in my old car and it was covered in oil but still rattled. Just checked out the one in the max today and same thing.
Now my question is.... are PCV valves always supposed to be covered in oil? I changed one in my old car and it was covered in oil but still rattled. Just checked out the one in the max today and same thing.
09-17-2005, 08:03 PM
#32
Originally Posted by High Altitude
Wood burning engine. Gas is pretty expensive these days. 
09-17-2005, 08:10 PM
#33
pcv valve for our car does not need to be changed much at all....it is more of 60k tune-up thing. an easier way to get the hose that goes from the metal tube tp the pcv valve on is remove the bracket that holds the metal hose and put the tune on it and down to pcv and put the bracket back on.....
04-04-2006, 05:43 AM
#34
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3
Hi - I am new here and hope someone can help me with an answer. Sorry if this is too long!
I just bought an '03 GLE, 30K last week and when it starts after enough time passes to cool down = BIG puff of blue/white smoke, then all is fine after about 30 seconds! Dealer said the PCV valve was clogged, causing oil to get into system and that's why the smoke at startup. They replaced the valve but said it might continue to smoke at startup for a few days until all the accumulated oil burns off. Are they being straight with me?? I got it back yesterday, have started it 3 times and same amount of smoke comes out each time! Please help me - I want to believe them, but something seems wrong here! Friends tell me it might be valve seals or rings!?
I just bought an '03 GLE, 30K last week and when it starts after enough time passes to cool down = BIG puff of blue/white smoke, then all is fine after about 30 seconds! Dealer said the PCV valve was clogged, causing oil to get into system and that's why the smoke at startup. They replaced the valve but said it might continue to smoke at startup for a few days until all the accumulated oil burns off. Are they being straight with me?? I got it back yesterday, have started it 3 times and same amount of smoke comes out each time! Please help me - I want to believe them, but something seems wrong here! Friends tell me it might be valve seals or rings!?
04-10-2006, 02:01 PM
#36
It's good to see a new guy doing his research by pullin up old threads. However, I dunno if you're gonna get the response u need. Post a few more times in here till u can create a new thread.
As for me, I changed mine 2 weeks ago, had 170,000 miles on the original. It looked slighty toasted, but seemed functional. After installing the new one, I don't notice any difference in engine performance... doesn't start any better, doesn't idle any better, doesn't seem any faster/torquier. I probably won't change it ever again for the life of my ownership. but yeah, it was cheap, so worth a shot.
Jae
As for me, I changed mine 2 weeks ago, had 170,000 miles on the original. It looked slighty toasted, but seemed functional. After installing the new one, I don't notice any difference in engine performance... doesn't start any better, doesn't idle any better, doesn't seem any faster/torquier. I probably won't change it ever again for the life of my ownership. but yeah, it was cheap, so worth a shot.
Jae
04-10-2006, 04:15 PM
#37
your an idiot if you change that thing every 3k, mabye ever 30k, probally as was said every 60k, tons of people never change these things and see hundreds of thousands of miles.....all this coming from me who changes his Mobil-1 5w-30, with a Mobil 1 filter and a steady dose of LC (Lube Control a real good additive for thouse of you who dont know) every 5k or less, man people think im nutz for that but 3k on a PCV and your just throwing money away
04-10-2006, 05:25 PM
#38
Tell that to a guy who does his conventional oil changes every 5 months and 6 thousand miles, You tell him how that PCV valve is doing on the 3rd oil change. Have you pushed a wrench in your life? enough said.
04-10-2006, 06:38 PM
#39
Hello. Just since I'm a complete no-nothing about engines, can I confirm that the way to check the PCV valve is to remove it and shake it and if some sort of pin "rattles" inside it is probably okay, right? Assuming the car doesn't have any starting or other engine problems that would lead to changing it just to be sure it is working okay (since it is a cheap swap).
For maintenance, checking it (by shaking it) every 30k would be a good idea if not to change it?
Thanks, mikey
For maintenance, checking it (by shaking it) every 30k would be a good idea if not to change it?
Thanks, mikey
