Ok....my pads in the front are shot...and the rotors are a little warped...so I want to get new rotors and pads for the front....any sugesstions from anyone...I was going to get the stillen rotors and metal matrix pads...but haven't heard anything good about them. I don't want to do a big brake kit...just get better rotors and pads. Any ideas???

 

Go with the stillen rotors and metal matrix pads, with your mods you may need some extra stopping power.

 

Cheapest... turn the rotors ($5-8 each) then get good pads... modded rotors are mostly for looks, pads make the real difference

 

Yeah, try turn/surface the rotors first. Drilled/slotted is mostly looks. Pads do make a difference. Be careful going with metal pads - some need to heat up before they stop well. I'm running Porterfield R4S in front - work fine cold or hot. (Couldn't resist the $35 deal used on em)

 

300zx TT brake conversion

 

What is involved in turning or resurfacing the rotors?
I am not really sure what was meant by turning the rotors.
Any explanation?

 

When rotors are turned or resurfaced they are put on a lathe and metal is removed to eliminate any warpage (usally presents itself as a pulsating brake pedal) or grooves in the rotor surface (from letting the pads wear out to the backing plates).
Most modern rotors are thin to start with and usally warp sooner after being turned. (less metal-faster heating-faster warpage) In the long run you might as well just replace them now if they need to be cut.

 

Should he replace the front wheel bearings at this time also? He will have the pads and rotors off,so why not?

 

Why not? Because BriGuyMax has no symptoms of bad wheel bearings. I don't believe in replacing good parts just for the heck of it.

Replacing the front wheel bearings requires removing the hubs. Removing the hubs requires removing the steering knuckles. Removing the steering knuckles requires removing the lower ball joints and lower strut mounting bolts. Removing the strut mounting bolts requires a wheel alignment afterwards. I cite this long list to illustrate that "rotors off" does not provide an easy or inexpensive opportunity to replace wheel bearings.

 

So what are the signs of bad wheel bearings?

 

Unpleasant grinding sounds, usually heard at low vehicle speeds. A bad wheel bearing does not cause a pulsating brake pedal.

To test for a bad wheel bearing...

1) Verify that all wheel lug nuts are tight.

2) Raise the car. If you have a floor jack you can raise the entire front end at once, and test both front wheel bearings. No need for jackstands, as you will not get under the car.

3) Grab the top of the tire (12 o'clock) and push away from yourself and pull toward yourself. Yank it to and fro in this fashion several times. If there is noticeable free play or an audible "clunking" sound, the wheel bearing is probably damaged.

4) Attempt to spin the wheel. If it spins freely but makes ugly sounds the bearing may be damaged. If it won't spin at all the brake may be dragging. This could indicate a sticking caliper.

 

To test for a bad wheel bearing...

3) Grab the top of the tire (12 o'clock) and push away from yourself and pull toward yourself. Yank it to and fro in this fashion several times. If there is noticeable free play or an audible "clunking" sound, the wheel bearing is probably damaged.



Thanks for step #3 - I was shown that test at JustTires and they suggested a loose strut. After taking it back to my installer they said the strut was fine. I am getting a squeak during acceleration (rebound?) from that same area so maybe a combo of probs.

 

What are the general costs in replacing wheel bearings? I think I have to replace mine, along with the CV joints and the brakes....oh boy....this is going to hurt.