Pulled my tranny about a month ago to replace the input shaft bearing and seal. Went ahead and replaced the master and slave cylinder as well.

I got the master from Dave B at Southpoint Nissan. It looked just like the one I took out, but I didn't compare them side to side.

Well, got the tranny fixed put everything back in. Got the master in and it seemed the rod comming through the fire wall was not long enough. Looked at the old master I took out and noticed that the metal piece that screws on to the rod and connects to the clutch peal was a different length. The new master's connection piece was much shorter than the old one.

No big deal, swapped the old one on to the new one. That gave me enough length to connect it to the pedal. figured I was good to go.

After bleeding the system for hours I could not get the pedal to spring back like it should. It would spring back far enough to release the clutch from the fywheel but I would still have to pull it up the last 1/2" or so with my hand.

The only way I can get the clutch pedal to spring back that last 1/2" is to have master cylinder adjusted all the way out.....to where the connection piece (the one I swapped over from the old master) is on the very last couple threads of the rod.

But, with the clutch adjusted that far out I am not getting the full pressure on the flywheel and the clutch will slip. Went back and adjusted the clutch back down to give me a lower engagement point and the slipping stopped....but the clutch won't pedal won't pop back all the way.

So, I can either have the clutch pedal release back all the way and have a clutch that will slip. Or I can have a clutch that will hold but have to pull the pedal back with my foot every time I shift.

I am guessing the actual rod length on the two masters are different. I would have to pull the new one out to verify this. Just wondering if anyone has ran into this before? Is there another nissan appliction for a clutch master cylinder that is the exact same as ours just a shorter rod? Anything else I could have done wrong that I am missing?

Thanks

 

I would call up David B and see what he thinks..Ive called him many times about problems and there usually solved pretty quickly over the phone even if he needs to send you a new master cylinder...also Nissan may have changed the design a bit and David B forgot to sell you a certain part, like for example when your doing the tensioner for the water pump, nissan changed the Size of the tensioner and you need to take the entire cover off to change the guide rails. This was different just a couple months ago <---Just an example of their changes

-matt

 

happend to me when i was doing my tranny swap. the master cylinder with the shorter connection rod turned out to be a 5th gen one. both look the same and bolts the same but the rod is shorter. i compared the 4th and 5th gen one and the 4th gen is longer by about 1/2 an inch.

 

I remember we had to swap out the rod and U shape piece for a 4th gen one when using a 5th gen CM cylinder, when I helped my friend with his 5spd swap.


If it is the rod, you can get the 4th gen one from Nissan, and it comes with that U shaped piece as well.

 

Dave might have sent me one from a 5th gen...I will call him on Monday.

 

Thanks for the help guys. Pulling out the master today and swaping rods. I took off the rod from the 4th gen one...any tips on getting that clip back in there to hold the rod in place?

 

Never mind. Got it

 

Yep same prob 5th gen not 4th wish it was right the first time!

 

Man what a PITA. Ended up turning into a whole day debacle.

Pull out the 5th gen master. Swap over the 4th gen rod. Bleed the system. But the engaement is all funky. Grabbing really high....almost to the point where the car is not driveable. I go back and forth adjusting the engagement point for 4 hours. can't get the damn thing to feel right, the clutch just won't grab the flywheel right. Was doing the work at my folks since my garage is so small. I figured everything was fine, just needed to find the right engagement point, so I try and drive home but after a few miles the clutch is slipping so bad I can hardly get the car moving from a stop. Limp the car back to my folks and try and figure out what is going on.

End up realizing I put the stopper (washer looking thing) in backwards when I took apart the MC. The stopper is concaved and if put it will not allow the rod to fully come out of the master causing the slave to constantly be pushing on the clutch fork...which causes the clutch to never engage fully.

Rip it all back out. Take the master apart again and reverse the stopper. Put it all back togther and bleed the system again. Finally the clutch feels right and graps like it should. A little fine tune adjustment and it is al good to go.

Start the drive home and all the sudden the car starts misfiring. Shaking really bad and will hardly let me get past 3K rpms. Figure it's the coil packs or a fouled plug or maybe the Z32 MAF. Go back to the parents house and pull all the plugs and they look fine. Limp the car home and will deal with it another day.

What a way to spend my one day off this week. So who's got some used coils for a good price?

 

I hate when that happens. You put everything back together and you forget one little thing

Last time I put my blower back on, I forgot to hook something up all the way in and had to rip it all back out to tighten one thing. I guess if I was working slower I would have caught it.

Did you check for any boost leaks before you go spending money on coils.

-matt