need help
As far as spark plugs are concerned, about 90% of people on here, along with Nissan themselves, would recommend NGK plugs. Get either the platinum or iridium plugs, although I personally use the iridiums and the car runs just fine. Concerning oil, I use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic only. You may also want to replace your fuel filter, especially if you don't know when the last time it was changed. I use the 1996 300ZX filter, which has a slightly larger diameter and is argueably a better filter - same goes for your air filter (I use a K&N panel filter). Someone else will fill you in on the rest...
What mileage are you at?
Any oil is good oil, as long as you change it every 3k, and change filter every 6k. For synthetic, I change and filter every 5k. At our latitude, 10w30 works fine year round.
Run 92 or 93 octane fuel always. Octane boosters don't work, higher octanes provide no benefit.
Change the fuel filter every 60k.
New air filter every 15k. I use normal paper filters from brands like STP.
Plugs, I go only with Nissan OEM, changed every 60k. Some people have had trouble with the non-OEM plugs, so I recommend the KISS principle - just use OEM. No need to change the wires, although on your 99 you may someday have ignition coil troubles, FYI.
Coolant I change every year, and run 50/50 distilled water/antifreeze mix. If you DIY, or take it to a non-dealer, be sure to read the ingredients of the antifreeze and *don't use any antifreeze with an ingredient containing silicates*. So if you see the word "silic*" in the ingredients, don't use it or your water pump will die. Also, do not use a hose to flush the system. 1) Buy 4 gallons of distilled water from the grocery store. 2) Drain the system as much as possible (the block drains are hard to access) and refill with distilled. 3) Run the engine, let it cool fully. 4) Refill with 50/50 distilled water and antifreeze. If you're **** retentive, use a coolant tester to make sure you've got exactly 50/50 mix.
For 5 speeds, I recommend Neo 75w90HD gear oil, or Redline MT-90. Change it every 60k.
New battery every 5 years.
New belts every 60k, note that there is no timing belt - only a timing chain which needs no replacement.
If you every bleed the brakes, use a DOT 3 or 4 fluid. Nothing special there.
Alignment every year. Tires when the tread gets close to the wear bars - and never spend less than $500 for a set of replacement tires. They are important.
Dave
Any oil is good oil, as long as you change it every 3k, and change filter every 6k. For synthetic, I change and filter every 5k. At our latitude, 10w30 works fine year round.
Run 92 or 93 octane fuel always. Octane boosters don't work, higher octanes provide no benefit.
Change the fuel filter every 60k.
New air filter every 15k. I use normal paper filters from brands like STP.
Plugs, I go only with Nissan OEM, changed every 60k. Some people have had trouble with the non-OEM plugs, so I recommend the KISS principle - just use OEM. No need to change the wires, although on your 99 you may someday have ignition coil troubles, FYI.
Coolant I change every year, and run 50/50 distilled water/antifreeze mix. If you DIY, or take it to a non-dealer, be sure to read the ingredients of the antifreeze and *don't use any antifreeze with an ingredient containing silicates*. So if you see the word "silic*" in the ingredients, don't use it or your water pump will die. Also, do not use a hose to flush the system. 1) Buy 4 gallons of distilled water from the grocery store. 2) Drain the system as much as possible (the block drains are hard to access) and refill with distilled. 3) Run the engine, let it cool fully. 4) Refill with 50/50 distilled water and antifreeze. If you're **** retentive, use a coolant tester to make sure you've got exactly 50/50 mix.
For 5 speeds, I recommend Neo 75w90HD gear oil, or Redline MT-90. Change it every 60k.
New battery every 5 years.
New belts every 60k, note that there is no timing belt - only a timing chain which needs no replacement.
If you every bleed the brakes, use a DOT 3 or 4 fluid. Nothing special there.
Alignment every year. Tires when the tread gets close to the wear bars - and never spend less than $500 for a set of replacement tires. They are important.
Dave
Ready...?
Spark Plugs: Other Nissan original plugs you can buy Iridium Plugs from your local auto parts store. These are a bit better than the stock plugs, better yet theyre the best on the market.
Fuel Filter: Nissan Dealer
PCV Valve: Nissan Dealer
Oil Change: Try using Valvoline Fully Synthetic Motor Oil 5W30
Check your belts for any cracks or harsh wear, check tire pressure.
Air Filter: Nissan Dealer
Lucas Fuel System Treatment: Works like a charm. Cleans deposits in your fuel system and cleans your injectors.
Tranny Fluid: 5spd: 75W90 Valvoline Auto: Whatever Nissan sells.
Coolant Change: Nissan Dealer
Most of these items are basically almost always cheaper at the dealership and your gettin original parts that work and look better. Good Luck!
Spark Plugs: Other Nissan original plugs you can buy Iridium Plugs from your local auto parts store. These are a bit better than the stock plugs, better yet theyre the best on the market.
Fuel Filter: Nissan Dealer
PCV Valve: Nissan Dealer
Oil Change: Try using Valvoline Fully Synthetic Motor Oil 5W30
Check your belts for any cracks or harsh wear, check tire pressure.
Air Filter: Nissan Dealer
Lucas Fuel System Treatment: Works like a charm. Cleans deposits in your fuel system and cleans your injectors.
Tranny Fluid: 5spd: 75W90 Valvoline Auto: Whatever Nissan sells.
Coolant Change: Nissan Dealer
Most of these items are basically almost always cheaper at the dealership and your gettin original parts that work and look better. Good Luck!
Originally Posted by 4thgenx42
Most of these items are basically almost always cheaper at the dealership and your gettin original parts that work and look better. Good Luck!
While the dealer may be a good value, IMO it's not for everyone.
Dave
You go to the dealer for the reputation and quality. Not saying that other places arent reputable or do low quality work, but at the dealer (or at least this should be the case) you're guaranteed a good job. Extreme example of this is you dont see Ferrari's at Midas.
For the most part I'd agree with what people have said on plugs, PCV, belts, coolant, etc. A few parts where I differ though:
I switch to 5w30 oil for the colder months (I'm in PA) just as a precaution and use 10w30 for the summer. I use Castrol GTX (a lot of people have different favorites, read up in the fluids and lubricants forum for more info). I change both oil and filter every 3k using genuine Nissan filters.
Fuel filter every 30k using Nissan OEM.
For auto tranny, I use Mobil 1 full synthetic ATF.
If you're buying OEM stuff, I'd recommend an online dealer like Pinnacle Nissan (http://www.nissanparts.org/) or Courtesy Nissan. It'll end up being cheaper than a local dealer most likely.
I switch to 5w30 oil for the colder months (I'm in PA) just as a precaution and use 10w30 for the summer. I use Castrol GTX (a lot of people have different favorites, read up in the fluids and lubricants forum for more info). I change both oil and filter every 3k using genuine Nissan filters.
Fuel filter every 30k using Nissan OEM.
For auto tranny, I use Mobil 1 full synthetic ATF.
If you're buying OEM stuff, I'd recommend an online dealer like Pinnacle Nissan (http://www.nissanparts.org/) or Courtesy Nissan. It'll end up being cheaper than a local dealer most likely.
I live in an apartment so I had some to do it flush my radiator. Fu*king guy charged me $60 who I so call friend. I now want to do it myself. Is this the procedure?
1. Drain radiator and reservoir.
2. Fill radiator and reservoir with distilled H2O.
3. Run engine for (how long) 5 minutes? And let it cool (about how long).
4. Drain radiator and reservoir.
5. Fill coolant in radiator and reservoir.
Do you use speed bleeder to bleed your brakes?
1. Drain radiator and reservoir.
2. Fill radiator and reservoir with distilled H2O.
3. Run engine for (how long) 5 minutes? And let it cool (about how long).
4. Drain radiator and reservoir.
5. Fill coolant in radiator and reservoir.
Do you use speed bleeder to bleed your brakes?
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Coolant I change every year, and run 50/50 distilled water/antifreeze mix. If you DIY, or take it to a non-dealer, be sure to read the ingredients of the antifreeze and *don't use any antifreeze with an ingredient containing silicates*. So if you see the word "silic*" in the ingredients, don't use it or your water pump will die. Also, do not use a hose to flush the system. 1) Buy 4 gallons of distilled water from the grocery store. 2) Drain the system as much as possible (the block drains are hard to access) and refill with distilled. 3) Run the engine, let it cool fully. 4) Refill with 50/50 distilled water and antifreeze. If you're **** retentive, use a coolant tester to make sure you've got exactly 50/50 mix.
If you every bleed the brakes, use a DOT 3 or 4 fluid. Nothing special there.
Dave
If you every bleed the brakes, use a DOT 3 or 4 fluid. Nothing special there.
Dave
Originally Posted by joew
3. Run engine for (how long) 5 minutes? And let it cool (about how long).
Do you use speed bleeder to bleed your brakes?
Do you use speed bleeder to bleed your brakes?
I don't use speed bleeders on my Maxima. I just have a helper push the brakes for me. I have a vacuum pump, the but the pedal-pushing method works much better. Just remember, you have to open and close the brake bleeder while the helper maintains pedal pressure. If the pedal is lifted, air get sucked in.
Dave
I'm not sure how the reservoir work. Do you drian and refill it as well
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
5 minutes should be just long enough to get the t-stat open and the coolant circulating. Let it cool until the engine itself is cool to the touch. In practice, you can just drive it around for a normal day with the distilled mix in there, and drain it and refill it after the car has been parked.
I don't use speed bleeders on my Maxima. I just have a helper push the brakes for me. I have a vacuum pump, the but the pedal-pushing method works much better. Just remember, you have to open and close the brake bleeder while the helper maintains pedal pressure. If the pedal is lifted, air get sucked in.
Dave
I don't use speed bleeders on my Maxima. I just have a helper push the brakes for me. I have a vacuum pump, the but the pedal-pushing method works much better. Just remember, you have to open and close the brake bleeder while the helper maintains pedal pressure. If the pedal is lifted, air get sucked in.
Dave



