Someone help me out here. I know that a WHILE back someone posted a link or even a recall/repair number that would fix the rear door sticking/dragging problem on the 4th generation Maxima and I-30?!?! I have the problem on my Maxima and my boss has the problem on his 96' Infinity I30.


Anyone?

SHUMAX

 

It's not a solution but it remedies the problem i think ..
Grease the hinge and move the door back and forth 10,000 times or until your arm falls off while doing this apply more grease every min or two ..

It feels a little better but the problem is still there..

If anyone has a REAL solution to this problem i'd love to hear it ..

Ant

 

That's a solution I have done so many times I have stock in WD40 and white lithium greese! I KNOW there is a recal out there of some sort. I just can't place it and, as usual, the search item sucks my nuts. I am sure Billy will be able to find it---I just don't really feel like wasting 15min digging for it when I know someone out here HAS to have it!

SHUMAX

 

I have the same problem with my front side passegner door. When I had the dealler look at it he didn't mention anything about a recall ( not that he would) so I'm still stuck with the same problem. I tried wd-40 on the little plastic thing that extends out of the door when it opens and that seemed to help a little tiny bit, but I'm still hoping to get a better solution from someone.

 

When my 95 SE was under warranty, I had the door part replaced (forgot what the name of the part was) on my passenger front. Once the new part went in, the door action was super smooth. The service guy said that it was probably a bad design or something. Greasing it will not fix the problem. My rears are doing it now; it's kind of like a grind when you open and shut the door.

 

bump

 

Hey you almost did us a favor there. Can you go get that receipt from the trip you made for the door problem and see what it has to say about the repair. I would like to think that they listed the part number of what was ordered....etc

Thanks,
SHUMAX

 

Unfortunely I don't have that invoice anymore. I took my car in for the 30K service at the time and told the dealer of the door grind problem. The new part looks exactly like the one on my dad's 98 SE. It's basically the metal track-like piece. There's gotta be some kind of recall for this. I looked at my sister's 2k Sentra, and sure enough, it's the new revised one like the 98 SE.

 

My wife had a 95 and the doors (rear especially) used to stick and grind horribly (btw, that was the ONLY problem we ever had with that car!).

I used to grease, oil and clean those "scraper bars" 'till I was blue in the face. The newer models (like my '99) have plastic bars, which slide much smoother. I'd bet they'd bolt right in and solve the problem, but I can't be sure. They're probably cheap enough to just buy one and try it.

 

A plea, if anyone can get me the part number I'd be very appreciative. I really need to replace mine, in fact I'm gonna probably replace all four of them. Thanks.

 

I just scanned the DOT's list of TSBs for the Maxima and couldn't find one that pertained to heavy or binding doors. The closest ones related to "vehicle exhibits interior squeaks and rattles while driving."

I think that "door part" is called the link-door stopp, part #80430-51U01. Courtesy doesn't sell it, nissanparts.cc has it for $15.82, and it's $17.13 at nissan auto parts dot com.

I had good luck using silicone spray on my heavy front passenger door, but I heard it degrades rubber.

 

Thanks for the info Tarheel, do you know if there is a specific part for the right side vs left side, I want to confirm before I order the part. Thanks again!!

 

I went out and checked my doors the other day, both of the passenger side doors drag a bit, but both of the driver's side doors are fine, weird. Looks like it's time to break out the tools!

 

Silicone spray lubricant is safe for rubber. WD-40 (and all other petroleum-based cleaner/lubricants) will cause rubber to deteriorate.

 

I looked at about two dozen 98's, 99's, and even a couple of new 2001's when I was shopping. At least 80% of them had doors that stick when closing. So, the problem has not been corrected in later years.

I thought it was just a problem with un-lubed doors on the older cars until I found the exact same problem on the new ones. It was funny to hear the salesmen come up with different stories when we ran into a particularly sticky one.

Bob

 

I fixed mine!!!!! I order that part referenced above and tore the entire door apart (off of car..etc.) The entire project took five hours to do the rear doors. It took FOREVER, to get them lined back up on the car. I am not sure if you can do this with the doors on the car or not. The dealer suggested that I take them off to make it easier---it was easy to do in the yard Suggestion? If you take them off get a marker out BEFORE you take them off and trace around the bolt and then remove it. Then when you go to reinstall it you can easily allign things!

Best $40 I have spent on my car....ever!

SHUMAX

 

HEy shumax,

Just ordered thet part for my front passenger side door, any other tips hints that you can give me, I'm really hoping I can install this part without removing the door. I should be getting the part next week. Thanks

 

I am telling you that the hardest part was getting to door back onto the car. I didn't have much trouble outside of that. Honestly, it was my fault I didn't mark the bolts where they were so that they would go back on easily. If you did that, I can't see it being difficult at all. I will say that you have to be careful with the door off of the car. I put a blanket down in my yard and did it in the sun.

Good luck!

SHUMAX

 

That sounds like a romantic 5 hours you spent with your max !!! hehe

 

any particular reASON to remove my doors? i really DON'T want to do that.
Thanks

 

The dealer told me to and it sure made it a lot easier to work on the door itself. Again, if I would have taken the steps to mark the doors orginal location it would have been very easy to reinstall.

It was a very romantic 5 hours

SHUMAX

 

Ok. Let's say i will not remove my doors. can you post directions on how to replace the units? I just ordered the same parts last week and i dont have a clue on how to put them in. Thanks

 

Tell ya what-
I am at work now. When I get home tonight I will take some time and write them up. It's not all that tough, but it can be confusing if you aren't careful!

Again, taking the doors off will be MUCh easier and isn't that bad.

SHUMAX

 

just got my part today, will make for a nice weekend project. let us know when you can post the direcions shumax, thanks!!

Kevin

 

Assuming that you already have the door off of the car, you need to get the door PANEL off too. This is the part on the INSIDE of the car that has the power windows on it...etc. Take that off removing screws along the bottom and the side. Then carefully use a door panel puller, or putty knie, pop the plastic rivet-like holders out. I think that there were 4-5 of them. It feels like the door will break if you go slow. My advise? Locate them one at a time and start pulling on the door until its taut. Then quickly yank it off. That way you aren't bending the door moulding all to hell. If you have the tool I mentioned you won't have to do this. With the panel removed remove the piece of plastic that covers the opening to the shell of the door. At that point it should be REAR visible as to what you are removing. You should see two bolts, one on eop and bottm of the slide unit you are replacing---remove those. Now, when you took the door off you had to remove the other end of the slide units bolts that were bolted to the frame of the car. At this point you have to be patient and try to work one end or the other through the hole. The install the new part and lube it up good. Once you are done just put everything back in order the reverse of the above.

Removing the door just gave me lots of room to work with, made it easier to remove the slide unit and gave me a nice tan in the yard

Good luck. I have pics and will post them when I can find a free service who will host them

SHUMAX

 

Thanks, just a question for you, what did you use to lube up the part? Also if you emaile me the pictures I can host them for you on my webpage. let me know.

Kevin

 

White lithium grease is what I used. The dealer said it was the best and I have had luck with it in the past.

SHUMAX


I will try to get pics to you by the end of the weekend.

 

Shumax,
THe thing i'm curious about is greasing the part up
did you have to grease up the entire part?? there were now instruction with the part so I just assusmed I have to bolt it on, no grease neccesary .

 

Hey if you don't want to put grease on , don't. I just did it because it looked like a friction part and I was not wanting to have to tear it apart later to grease it

SHUMAX

 

Shumax...I just did this procedure this morning and it took me a total of................15 minutes !!!

I'm terribly sorry that you removed your door and spent 5 hours, but as i told you, it wasnt really necessary, but just like you said, the best $40 i ever spent

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=46386

 

Did you have to remove the inside panel of the door to get to it all? Please explain how you did it!

SHUMAX

 

I gave the link on the previous page of this post. Please go read it