has anyone replaced their knock sensor w/ out removing the manifold?? i tried to do it tonight but it seems impossible. Any tips/techniques appreciated. thanks.

note: link on stickies doesnt work.

 

yep, u need long extension, u-joint. well, thats on my fed spec, i've heard CALI spec is different and a bit tougher.

 

specifically what tools do you need, i just bought a knock sensor online and I have no idea where to start

 

here ya go courtesy of sticky:
The article suggest using a 14” (or longer) ¼” socket extension to reach the KS retaining bolt. I found that using a 9” extension made it much easier to get the u-joint onto the KS bolt. To save money, I used two 3/8” drive extensions with a 3/8 to ¼ adapter, a ¼” drive u-joint and a ¼” 12mm socket (most of which I already had). Skippynet suggest using a 12mm flex socket, but being cheap I used a separate socket and u-joint so that I would have a more useful general purpose tool left over than the 12mm flex socket (better yet, I borrowed the u-joint and saved another $8). A 3/8” u-joint is a slightly bigger animal and in my opinion would make it hard to get the socket onto the bolt. It was not at all difficult to loosen the bolt using this setup. I had also borrowed a 16” extension and found it very difficult to get the socket onto the bolt head (I gave up after about 2 minutes, so it probably could have been done).

Once the bolt was out, I used a magnetic pickup to retrieve it (and eliminate the possibility of dropping it into the engine cavity where as you will find out soon, is not a very friendly place). With the bolt removed, you can pull the knock sensor out of the cavity by the harness and replace it. Next, I put the bolt into the new KS and used a small piece of tape to hold it in place while I stuffed it back into the engine cavity (again to eliminate the chance of dropping it in there).

Now the difficult(ish) part: I don’t see how you can locate the bolt into the hole and get it started without stuffing your hand under the manifold. Others have done it using a claw type pickup to position the bolt so no harm in trying. If you have very large hands, you might try enlisting a girlfriend, your mom or a small child as others have done. I was able to get my hand in there and get the bolt hand tight, then it was just a matter of using the 9” extension/u-joint setup again to do the final tightening. Your hands will get cut up a little doing this, but the term “bloody stump” that gets thrown about is quite an exaggeration.

I was able to replace the KS in both cars in less than 1 hour including test drives using this method. Post installation I got back the power of my VQ and gas mileage increased by 2 MPG.

The real key is using the skippynet socket extension method to crack the bolt loose. Once you have jammed your hand into the engine cavity you will realize how difficult it would have been to get a wrench on the bolt and loosen it.

 

basically it says extensions, u joint, and 12mm socket. maybe a magnetic pickup tool. the guy who did mine stuffed the socket with a bit of tape, put the new knock sensor on the end and put it bak in its place so that it wouldnt fall off and into the engine. or u can stuff ur hand down there, if they fit. really quik job if u know wut ur doing.

 

I tried that method...No dice....The bolt is screwed on EXTREMELY tight. And the amount of space you have limited. You might even end up breaking your extension if you try too hard. Hate to say it, but take it to a shop.

 

I did almost everything alright. I loosened the bolt that holds it down, but I couldn't screw it off completely, so I had my little sister come out and help me, she did it in a matter of seconds.

 

did the shop take off the manifold? what was the cost?

 

 

yeah i had a fun time with out taking off the manifold. i cant quiet remember how i broke the bolt loose. it helps to have small hand. i have medium size hands and it was difficult. looks like i got into a fight with a razor blade thou. but changing that out made the biggest differnce. only 2mpg gains? before i changed my knock sensor i got like 250 miles per tank since then i have gotten 350 on average. and the most ive seen is 420

 

Yeah, I definatly agree. Its a pretty easy job. I had Matthel help me out. Make sure your car is well cooled down, break the bolt, stick your hand in, take it out, put new one on, stick your hand in there, put it on, and you are home free with a lot more power and better gas milage. i think it took him 20 minutes to put in new KS, and clean out my TB. Nows all i gotta do is put in a new o2 sensor and il have a much better car, lol.

 

I had put off installing the knock sensor because I had heard it was a real mission.. well with the below its really quite simple and pain free

I used the extension method.. had the knock sensor out in about 20mins and not a single cut

I used this setup of extensions:
1/2 socketdrive + 1/2to3/8 + 10"3/8 extension + 3/8to1/4 + 1/4 swivel + 1/4 12mm



I found the grabber tool the easier way to position the bolt and knocksensor apon replacement. You will still need a magent pickup tool incase you drop th e bolt in an awkward spot like I did in a bit of a valley.

 

if you have trouble getting it loose, go out and purchase a 12mm flex socket
you will definatly get it then.

 

when using a shallow 12mm socket, u joint + extensions you have to get it seated, and the angle at which you have it has to be as HIGH AS POSSIBLE.. you get JUST enough angle for the u-joint to almost work. It will turn some but not really properly, but all you need is to break it free.. once its on there dont go trying to turn it like a girl, hit it like a 800lb gorilla would and break it free.

Once it is broke free it is finger loose, get someone with small hands to go in there, unthread, pull out bolt + knock sensor, replace, finger tighten, and repeat to tighten.

 

hey guys THANKS A LOT for the input and advice! esp. for the pics! i really appreciate it. I'm going to give it another shot and make it work.

 

And dont be worried about dropping stuff in there, its not like it can "fall into the engine" or anything, its all enclosed beneath the intake manifold... You might have a tough time getting it out, but it has no where to hide from you