This is been happening about two weeks now. When I come to a full stop, I start to get a lot of engine Vibration. My Idle Drops to 500 and them goes back to Normal IDLE (700~). I have cleaned my TB and changed my fuel filter, and spark plugs not too long ago. My car runs strong, no hesitation what so ever when I press the gas (WOT). I have no idea what could be Causing this. I have a 99 GLE auto, Can someone give me an Advice? Thanks In advance.

 

I had the same problem. I woudl clean my TB to make it go away, but then all o fsudden it got worse. I took my maxima to the mechanic and they told me that one of my fuel injectors were bad and that I had to replace all six eventually and it would cost me $1500. My engine was shaking so much my knock sensor error code went off. But when I replaced my fuel injector (the one the dealer told me was bad), I still had the same problem. Then I tried to replace the other two injectors myself and now my car won't start. Either b/c I didn’t take the fuel rail out when replace the injector or i did something seriously wrong. It sounds like my car is going to explode now.

Anyway do you have an error code now?

Recommendation the dealer charged me $120 just to find the problem.

 

It could be as simple as a bad ground connection, bad injector will be noticed anywhere in the rpm range. There is something called as fuel injection cleaning. Its a machine that is hooked up to your car from the fuel rail and from there it runs cleaners into the engine while the car is running and the fuel system is disablied. Its a very good way to clean up all the carbon build up and im sure that will also make your engine idle smoother. Im going to get that done next week, I will post back my results.

 

Thanks A lot for the info, hopefuly that's all it is, not the injectors.

 

Iacv? 789 10

 

Simple tune up, change the plugs, change your PCV, Clean your TB, Change your air filter (Excluding if you have an intake) Follow that thick ground wire from the battery's underside to a plate thats bolted to the engine (Front, drivers side, next to the trans) that that plate off (1 12mm screw) sand down the plate and sand down the cable wire neck slap it back together and let us know if it problem is sloved. You might also want to use red seal spray used for battery terminals.

 

Also you are 99 check your coil packs, they could be at fault. Recall on them.

 

Thanks a lot for the info, I will give that a try this weekend, I did change my spark plugs, and pcv valve at 50k, right now I am at 79k. Now I want to try this ground wire. Is it possible you can send me pic? I kind of know which wire you are talking about, but a pic would be perfect, thank you.

 

I have called Nissan Regarding this recall for the coil packs. They ran my vin number, and told me that my car has no recall. I would appreciate if you have more detail regarding this recall. I called Nissan about a month ago.

 

try testing all your hoses. that happened to me when i had a vacuum leak.

 

I had this exact ssame problem but sometimes the brake and battery light came on after the car idles all the way off, which wouldmean altenator but the radio and lights would still be on. I changed my battery, altenanator twice and fuel pump and still had the same issue until. I decided to investigate on my own.Thats when i found out that it was the maf adapter. After picking one up at a local junk yard. Problems been gone since. Morale of the story always try to fix on your own first then go to mechanics..lol.

Nah dude give your maf a try.

 

Ill have to post a pic of that ground wire another time later on this week. Do you still have the stock intake setup? If you stand infront of your car and look at that air scoop remove those 2 screw/bolts look on the back end of that air piece there will be a clamp that connects to the resonator (that box that quiets down the intake, which the MAF sensor connects to and which the other end goes to the TB). remove that air scoop, leave the resonator in, look down towards the headers now towards the drivers side you will prob see a thick black with a red strip cable wire going to a rusty bracket on the engine. Get a 1/4 with a 12mm or just use a 12mm and be there forever. Use some sand paper sand down the bracket and the cable wire hook. Put everything back together and if you want use the red coating used for battery ternimals. I used it to make sure it doesnt rust up again and protects it from any type of liquid.

 

Another thing i forgot to say, Just noticed in your sig you say you have an intake setup, did you ever use the cleaning/oil kit? if so you might need to take out your mass air flow sensor and use electric parts cleaner with a Q-tip and clean the diode in the center of the mass air flow sensor.

 

I have a after market intake (JWT pop charger, Mid Pipe), I kind of know which wire you are talking about, I will take another look. The reason I asked for a pic, because I want it to make sure. Thanks again.

 

i have the same problem with my 97... did a full tune up and nothing helps let me know what happens...

 

Ya, I called Nissan and ran my Vin. no recall. I also asked, and Nissan said there is no coilpack recall on any 99 Maximas.

 

nissan lies, they don't like losing money replacing coil packs for thousands of maximas for free

 

Then how can I replace my coil pack as a recall? please let me know. thanks!

 

It sounds to me like a problem with the Idle Air Control Valve. Do you have a CEL? You might want to try removing and cleaning the IACV, there are directions in the stickies.

 

I first notice my problem when my car turned off when i was at a stop and just giving it a little gas. After I put it in park, it started again without hesitation. However, since then I've been noticing that, ramdomly, it will not give any power for a second or two if I've come to a stop. Then all of the sudden it kicks in like it forgot what it was supposed to do and remembers all the sudden.

I checked around to see if any hoses were lose, but I didnt see any. I havent gotten on CEL and I think about 6 months ago i did the IACV cleaning. The car still pulls nice and hard when its working fine, so it doesnt seem to be critical, but I'd like to get to the problem before it gets to that state.

sorry if I hi-jacked the thread a bit, but it seems related, if not the same problem.

 

Same thing happened to me. Had all 6 replaced. My car was fine until recently when the weather started to get very cold. Problem came back. It's fine after my car is past the "C" in the temperature gauge though. There was a thread on this a while ago, I believe it's something in the transmission that's the problem. Tune-ups won't help... I've done 2 since I had my fuel injectors replaced about a year and a half ago.

 

I have cleaned the IACV valve not too long ago, I failed to mention that. I have no CEL. I am thinking the ground wire or the MAF. I am not sure, I will try and let you guys know. Thanks for the info.

 

well if you see the rpm dropping, i would definately clean the iacv.

 

I think my problem is similar. When at idle speed, in drive(stopped at a red light or stopped at all in gear), after being warmed up when the EGR system is operating, rpm drops drasticly over and over and it has gotten progressively worse to the point where now it hesitates upon acceleration. I have cleaned everything mentioned, replaced just about every thing replacable and still have not fixed it. I was doing some looking around and I think it might be a vacuum leak somewhere, I was given the EGR solenoid code and it checked out ok with the ohm meter.

I also noticed that on the top of the intake manifold I don't have that assembly. It has been this way since I bought it and when I first got the car it had a little stutter but nothing compaired to what it is now.

Anyway, does anyone know what the difference is between a cali spec and a non cali spec? What parts are different if any?

Sorry to high-jack I thought this was related so I figured I'd share.

 

cali spec has more emissions restrictions. not sure what the details are but im sure it might have more 02 sensors or 1 more cat? or precats? Don't know the full story but its from emissions purposes.

 

I was thinking about doing what this guy mentioned from this website (http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/cleanmaf.htm) what do you think?

 

Lets check something real quick... someone mentioned/thought it might be a transmission problem. I'm not questioning that person, but maybe s/he is on to something. Are all of us with this problem, similiar or related, autos?
It doesn't seem to be the coil packs according to at least one guy.

I have an auto.
almost at 100k
no mods in the engine bay cept a FTSB

Ill check tomorrow to see if i have any vaccuum leaks, but i dontthink i do.

 

With you have a bad coil pack, you usally get so much more vibration, You could be right about Tranny but i doubt it is the tranny in hour case. I am thinking of two things right now to try, one is the MAF sensor, and the other one is That ground wire.

 

any news yet?

 

mine ran perfect when i first purchase it from a lady. It started to virbate after a month of so of "light" abuse I guess it is the tork converter thats causing the problem coz it is aboslutly fine when i leave it in neutral.

 

i recently started having the problem of my car idling at low rpm's and eventually turning off ... I suspect it's my alternator.

 

No I did not have chance to do anything yet.