1.) When i start my car in the morning the car will start and then the rps fall and the car cuts off. I have to start the car and give it gas for about 10 seconds to keep it on. So i am not able to use my remote start becasue the car wont stay on.

2.) On the days that the car will start on the 1st crank as soon as i put the carr in Drive the car shuts off. I have to wait until the temp needle is in the middle to put my car in drive and move off.

Any ideas on a fix for either of these problems?
Could they be related?

 

...bump...

 

Codes? .

 

since its temp related I would guess ECTS. I've heard many state there car would do the same thing with this sensor being faulty. After replacing problem was solved.

Test it with a multimeter and see if its still good.

 

I have no codes. (ghost or regular)

 

...bump...

 

Engine Coolant Temp sensor would also be my guess......seems to be the hot failure at this time

 

... ...

 

Is this in the sticky's?
where can i find more info on this ECTS?
and how to replace it?

 

http://www.forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=396750

 

hmm..free bump

 

the pic in the link doesnt work.

 

Get a Haynes. Page 6-12, figure 8.2b


Or just look at a similar thread.....

 

the engine coolant temp sensor would make the car not start? mine is doing this but if you give it gas its fine.

 

wouldnt it be just as easy to clean the TB? i had the same problem with my old 96 and found out that ther ewas gunk around the butterfly... when cold it would be rock hard and you had to give it gass for a bit to warm it up so it would not stick any more... same exact problem with teh car starter also.. would not stay on...

 

Exactly! when i give mine gas its will stay on. But then I cant use my remote starter to warm up my car to combat the other problem of putting the car in D and it shutting off.

 

My 97 has a problem starting too. not as dramatic as yours, and its a manual . When i start it, esp when its cold, the rpms go up to about 1500 then drop to almost 0 but then jump back up again to about 1200 where they stabilize. when i bought the car, the guy told me that i should give it gas as i am starting it when it is cold... i had a 95 before, it never needed any gas when starting, no matter what the weather (and i was in NH where it snows 7 months out of the year).

 

My sister's 95 is having the same problem on cold starts. But i'm not sure why it would shut off when you put it in D. :stumped: I'm assuming that its just gunk in the throttle body. 210k Miles and counting <---except its auto

 

I have the same problem. My car won't start without giving it gas. Then when i put it to D is shuts off. Also when i get it driving, the first few times i break (like 4times) the car shakes. After that the car drives fine a doesnt shake.

Does anyone else have this problem or know what to do.

 

I have a 98 and it only hard to start when it is cold (example over night or if it has been sitting for a while). Once the car has been driven the car starts right way. Will this be the ECTS you guys are talking about?

Does anyone know how much it runs to replace this? Any instructions?

Thank you in advance all! :0)

 

~$30.

just need the right size wrench and teflon thread selant. Takes 5 mins tops.

 

i have the same problem too. I just found this thread, maybe this is why it happens?

 

I to have the EXACT same problem, for some reason i always just thought that it was fuel filter. My problem is exactly how ur discribe only mine occures maybe like 30% of the time I start my car. I would think that if it was an electrical problem, like a sensor , that this problem would occ everytime i start my car (either a sensor is broken or workes, doesnt get soft after a while?) So i figure its either not gettin enough air or fuel at start up. Recently replaced my air filter and still experience the problem. Id further investigate this problem but its TOO ****IN COLD. input would help

 

yes, my car starts this weird way only sometimes as well. usually when the engine or the weather is cold. sometimes it even seems to take longer to start, maybe by 2-3 seconds, but noticeable. the guy who had the car before me did mess around with the intake - the supposedly had a short ram injen or something like that. i had to fix a lot of things after i got the car. but it has always been starting like this - since i got it in march 05.

 

hey thought id add to this, we all seem to have similar problems. Mine takes longer to start when its cold. I thought it is normal because of the milage the engine has(285,000kms). Mine when i start it cranks fine but takes longer to start, goes up to 1500, then goes down really low like down to 0 then back up to around 1300. This car has been stock all its life, and has been maintained well. I think i might try cleaning the TB to see if that helps any. Has anyone else had this problem and resolved it?

 

Mine's got 233k and starts on a dime, perfectly everyday.. So no it's not normal for a high mileage car to start like crap, maybe a poorly maintainted car, but not high mileage.

 

Starting at about 120,000 miles my former '95 GXE was hard to start first thing on a cold morning (i.e. it would start then immediately stall, so i'd have to give it a couple stabs of gas to get it going). Eventually the codes for the idle air control valve (IACV) and EGR valve came up. After i removed and cleaned the IACV, (per this forum of course!) i adjusted the throttle body sensor and didn't have anymore cold morning start problems. Also, I reset the engine light and the codes never came back.

 

Just a bump to see if anyone else has more input.

 

has anyone actually tested their ECTS? or are people just keep posting that they have the same problem?

 

Well... I went to the dealer to ask for the temp sensor and it turns out there is a an air temps senso in the intake and a coolant temp sensor. Which one do we replace?

Air Temp Sensor $30
Coolant Temp Sensor $19

 

Coolant temp sensor...

 

I think your IACV is sticking too... (two unrelated problems, that cause similar symptoms).

 

there are 2 coolant temp sensors, one for the gauge and one for the ecu.

my car does this to but i figure its because i removed the bottom portion of the TB (coolant lines ect).

teflon tape would be a bad idea due to grounding issues. use some kind of metallic sealant.

 

coolant temp