madcatmk2

Got this code about 2 months ago and I posted earlier about it and didnt end up fixing it so id figured I post one last time before I go to a grarage or dealer. So far I bought a new valve for the charcoal box, that fixed it for 1 week. Checked the charcoal box and seems to be ok from what dealer said to look for and I checked the engine wire harness bend for a break and that came back ok. Any new ideas on what it could be and to fix this aggrivating problem would be appreciated as Ive now dropped to ~20 mpgs where It had previously been ~24 halfway through the light on, ~27 before it started. Thanks.

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

From what I've seen with that code, you have to replace the valve and the canister. You should be able to check that the valve is opening/closing when you apply voltage to it... (i.e. bench test it)... I say it's time for a new charcoal canister...

madcatmk2

I tried the bench test on my old one and my new one and they move up and down but only about 1/4 of an inch Id say it looks like. Is that normal up and down range of motion and if it is normal then the box was probably was the problem the whole time then? Can I only buy the charcoal box through the dealer or should a garage be able to get it too?

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

I'm not sure of how much the valve moves, but as long as you can see it shutting/closing and opening, that should be good enough.

I believe the charcoal cansiter is a dealer only item - i.e. you can't buy it at any regular parts-store... I'm not 100% on this, so call around. If you do need to get it from Nissan, buy it from one of the many online sources.

InsneDrmr

iTrader: (1)

When I posted about this code I got zero reponses...but what I have come to learn is that p0443 has nothing to with anything going on with the charcoal box. I already replaced that and the evap vent control valve (valve on the box) The code points to a sensor in your engine bay. Unfortuneately I havent found any online dealers that have it, and I dont know how much it costs. Check the stickies and it tells you where this valve is exactly.

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

InsneDrme is right... for some reason I kept thinking that this is the charcoal cansiter purge control valve...

madcatmk2

I checked the code stickies but didnt find this code listed and tried the how-to's but didnt find anything about a purge valve. Do you happen to remember the name of the part or code that's related to it so I can look it up in the stickies?

InsneDrmr

iTrader: (1)

Its listed as ECU trouble code 1008. Heres the write up. If you find anything else out...please let me know. Thanks.

1008
The Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve uses an on/off duty cycle to control the flow of fuel vapor from the EVAP canister. Diagnostic Trouble Code 1008 is set when the Engine Control Module (the computer) detects an improper signal through the valve. The problem is likely to be in the electrical wiring, harness, or the valve itself.

Check fuse #58 (10 amps) and replace if necessary.


The CPVCSV is easy to see and reach. It is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the top of the upper intake manifold. Notice the Vehicle Serial number stamped into the firewall. Put your finger on the third-from-last number. Move your finger three inches toward the radiator. That's the CPVCSV. It has one two-wire electrical connector and two vacuum hoses. It is directly above the ignition coil connector for cylinder #5 and has to be removed in order to replace the #5 coil or spark plug.

You may test the valve. This test procedure is performed with the engine off. Remove the electrical connector and both vacuum hoses. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric terminals. The polarity doesn't matter. With the solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.
http://www.jcn.net/mwest/evappage.htm

96ItaliaSE

iTrader: (3)

follow this link it will give you all three evap pieces for $150.
Why mess around? replace all three and forget about evap!
http://www.nissanparts.cc/cart/?pn=14950-56U18

bobjohnson

iTrader: (2)

YO!!!!!!!!!!!
See Evap link at the bottom of my sig.....
Next, Search all my posts and you will find more than enough information.

I bought NO new parts... and you shouldnt need to buy the canister, those never need replacing really.....
Replace all ur vacume hoses $3 in material.
Check the Metal pipe which connects into the top manifold, Its very hard to see but it's on the Engine part FACING the firewall of your cabin...<This pipe gave me every code in the book.. literally.

Search my posts & threads on evap....

InsneDrmr

iTrader: (1)

I followed the link to the parts....and there was no listing for this part.

I then followed the Evap troubleshooting link. I have seen that before and tried what it said. It seems I have to replace this part. Still, I dont know how much it will cost, or if I absolutely have to go to the dealer.

ddurandd

I started getting code 1008 on my '96. I checked my manual it said it was the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve. On my car, this part has a 6 wire connector and two rubber tubes connected to it. It bolts on with two 12mm nuts. I tested the part as recommended in the manual. First I checked for 12v on the connector on pins 2 and 5 (middle top and middle bottom). There was power on the connector, so I checked the part itself with an ohm meter. The manual said there should be 30 ohms of resistance between pins 1 and 2; 2 and 3; 4 and 5; 5 and 6. I think these are the windings for the step motor to open and close the valve. I detected an open circuit between pins 5 and 6. So I determined the part was bad and headed out to the junkyard. The '95 they had on the lot had a slightly different valve, but the electronics were the same. I unscrewed the 3 phillips head screws and migrated the good electronics over to my old valve. (I tested the junkyard part with the ohm meter first and everything was ok.) I also was careful not to lose that little spring in there, too.

I just finished putting everything back together and I reset the ECU codes. (I also had a 0111, but I've read that can be associated with the 1008 code.) I've driven 30 miles so far without the check engine light coming back on. Fingers are crossed....

InsneDrmr

iTrader: (1)

Well Ive been dealing with this problem for almost a year now...still havent come up with a fix for it by myself. I dont wanna go to the dealer....thats my last resort.

paddocklke

I've had this code for 2 1/2 years now and the funny thing is every time it gets below 15 degrees or so, the fault code goes away and I am able to pass my emissions test which is due every other December. It has not affected my gas mileage or anything so I haven't bothered with it.

denami

lol thats pretty lucky unfortunately i am in a similar situation mine has been coming up for over a year i think, except they just required you to have the CEL off to pass inspection near me, and mine is due in august so no chance of getting under 15 there