http://www.customenterprise.com/view...sd/scspid/5215
if it does give you more hp are there any write ups on what you need to ground..

 

It doesnt give any horsepower

 

There is a install write up in the STICKIES, and like rsly33 said, it doesn't give any HP.

 

It doesn't... maybe a smoother idle and AT shifting, brighter lights, and better throttle response, but no extra power.

I'd get a kit from Matt:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=444279

http://www.mattblehm.com/enginegrounding.htm

Or just DIY with parts from Home Depot or Lowes for $30, you just have to know the ground points, which many people on here could help ya with.

 

If you invest some time in researching reviews of project race vehicles you will see that every one of them devotes some effort to create a supplemental grounding wire system to reduce overall electrical resistance between components. Hardwired import tuning junkies will disagree.

I recommend buying the www.k2motor.com $50 voltage stabilizer since it comes with a free grounding wire kit (if that deal is still available, it was when I got it). The kit comes with 7 wires as opposed to the 5 in most other kits. The only detail that I would worry about would be the fact that the grounding wire kit comes with an ALUMINUM block spacer to clamp onto your battery terminal, and we all know that metal is a terrible conductor, so you can develop problems quickly with this setup. It is easily corrected by some ingenuity and copper plumbing clamps and fittings - maybe $5's worth.

 

I made myself a grounding kit today as a replica to the AT kit. I made it using leftovers from another project, but even if I hadn't, it was less than $10 in materials.

 

Custom enterprise wants $60 for a bunch of wires?? Thats insane....

 

looked all over the stickies couldnt find any write ups, how can i do this mod
please help thanks

 

Here's one: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/442543/16

 

Aluminum conducts electricity fine. You know most of your electrical components ground through your aluminum engine and then through a not aluminum cable.

 

thanks for the write up Puppetmaster

 

all u have to do is buy sum 4 or 6 gauge wire yourself its so easy to do

 

i know its easy to do but i need to know where and what to ground

 

Number of wires means nothing, you can buy a cheap one on ebay with 14 wires if you think the quantity is what helps it. Having more wires means nothing if you have nothing to connect them to that makes a difference

My blehmco kit came with 4 wires I think

 

It could restore horsepower that was *already lost* due to ground wire deterioration. But only if your grounds are going bad and causing a hp loss.

Of course, digging around your engine bay and looking for green connections, then disassembling, sanding the contact surfaces, and reassembling them will do the same thing.

Dave

 

$59 for those is a rip off...talking about highway robbery. You can buy a whole spool + ring terminals for way less. Make your own and save $$$.

 

any other write ups on how to do this

 

reground the stock grounds ex: alternator, block, head, fuel injectors, body....

 

Its all BS, ground is gound. you only need a 1 common ground. (a bunch of gound wires is like a bunch of shoe laces on the same shoe) This is basic circuit theory.

 

I dont know if they give you anymore power but........but shoe laces and ground wires are not the same. do you just need one to work? yes! does it matter the restistace of you shoe laces? no! but More wires (in theory and every thing work there) should give you less resistance which ='s bigger wire. Why do you want a larger guage wire on your amp? less restiance! it the same priciple The more paths to ground you have the less likly it is to have a high restance. High resistance ='s poor ground (but in a radio it can also cause noise) which is why you would use 1 large wire. It is my opinon that IF the wires you have are making a good connection now then they should be enough and there is no need in the grounding kit. (if I'm wrong someone correct me)

 

Wire size matters when dealing with large currents. Resistance only goes up significantly if you try to squeeze a lot of current into a little wire. Amp wire and starter connections are large (both the power and ground side) because they carrying a large amount of current. Installing a large stereo, hi-amp alternator, etc are reasonable cause for upgrading grounds. If you don't know about any of this already, don't worry because you don't own any such equipment. Just inspect the stock stuff.

The rest of the grounds don't need to be large, and even if they're 24ga thin, they won't have measurable resistance. These grounds are only there to ensure sensors signals are well grounded. Disassemble the connections, clean the contact surfaces, and reassemble to ensure there is no resistance added due to corrosion. A simple test with a multimeter will be sufficient to verify these grounds. The reason people can see horsepower increases is because something like the MAF or knock sensor or something isn't grounded well and it's causing the ECU to misread the signal. So the grounds are only fixing a problem, not improving on the stock setup.

Dave

 

So where are our factory ground points at? I found 2 which i believe are grounds for the lights on the left side (looking at engine) behind the light is a green fisheye type hook with tons of lil wires coming from it mounted to the body and on the right side is a brown fisheye type hook with tons of little wires coming from it on the right body panel

And will 8 guage wire work?

 

thats is all true but just for some more info the 24 ga. wires are either very short or very low load. DC current is not very transmittable over long distances or high loads (which is why we use AC in homes it has to travel from power plant) and that is why we use larger wire for either or both high load/current or long distance. (10 feet is a long distance for DC current.)

 

No offense bro, but im not going to waste my time trying to explain this to you, besides dave pretty much clarified it, except for one thing.

Dave,
I dont even believe these grounding kits are to ensure sensor signals are well grounded. Most sensors, bulbs, electrical components, share a common grounding wire at one point (main ground wire). This is what the 'grounding kit' does. Add more wires to the common grounding wire. If that wire was a bad ground (corroded, impeding signal flow) YOU WOULD KNOW, almost everything in your vehicle would cease to function. (no i dont mean power steering)

Most of what you said was correct, however theoretically if a sensor had a bad ground, your CEL would light up. (of course If ITS ground wasnt bad) and if your common ground (main ground wire) was bad, you wouldn't even be able to start your car fellas.

Let me know if you disagree, im not familiar with the electrical breakdown of the maxima but the idea is the same. again, its basic circuit theory.

 

This doesnt make sense, and how is this even relevant?

 

[QUOTE=eturnl]No offense bro, but im not going to waste my time trying to explain this to you, besides dave pretty much clarified it, except for one thing.QUOTE]

No offense taken bro (I'm not an expert on the maxima either)........and there is no need to explain a 12 volt DC cuircit to me I understand it pretty well!! I am an aerospace/computer engineer acording to my college degree(s)UT 96' ETSU 98'. 8 years ago I couldn't even spell engineer now I is one!
And what doesn't make sence about a 24 ga wire having to be short or have a small load/current? DC current is very fickel thats why people have so many problems with it. Any extra resistance at all and it may not work(loose/corroded ground). AC current will jump the gap (not saying its a good thing) but it is fact. you would not run a 24 gauge wire for an amp would you?
Well "IN THEORY" (everyone follow along) you could run a 24 ga wire to power an amp without any major voltage loss due to resistance but the distance would have to be short enough(not practical but possible)
That is ONE reason but not the only (current has something to do with it also) why we use larger wires for amps, starters, and such. As the distance it has to travel (to the trunk/starter) increases resistance of DC current increases thus it looses voltage/current and gains heat! DC is effected not only by the size of the wire but also distance it travels. As the distance increases you have to increase the size of (or decrease the restistance) the wire to get the same current/voltage. That is what I'm saying and if someone can prove otherwise I'm all ears.

 

I honestly can't see the use in these grounding kits. The coil packs have two wires going to each LT winding, they do not rely on making a ground on the motor... so no gain there. Neither do the injectors, the return wires all go back via the harness. Once you've taken care of sparks and fuel, what's left? Sensors also use their own return wires. Those grounding kits must sell to the same people who mistakenly believe that buying 'Litz' wire and gold-plated connectors will improve their home hifi experience. Providing the OEM arrangements are clean and bright and not corroded they should be perfectly adequate.
Actually there is a good argument *against* using multiple earths. It causes multiple return currents which increases electrical noise in general. The standard for good earthing practice is 'star' earthing - all earths (US: grounds) should be connected to one point only.

 

You're right - very nearly all sensors have a ground wire to eliminate these kind of failure points. However, some cars (not 4G Max's) do use things like one-wire oxygen sensors, etc and will have faulty readings if the ground plane is not excellent. Some cars have frequent grounding issues - Maximas are not known for many grounding problems.

Another area where the aftermarket ground can help is to divert around bad battery cables - this is the only place on the car where the wiring tends to go bad and is not easily detected (since it's only "bad" under high current load). Again, this is a situation where you're band-aiding around a faulty component - so it restores horsepower that a stock replacement would also fix. But it's still a Band-aid fix.

As far as Buttonhook's concerned, I don't know what he's talking about.

Dave

 

first dave you are right about everything you've said. I was just adding to what you said. I'll see if I still have a book that I can recomend on DC current.

 

Don't worry - in my last job I worked with buses that carried several thousand amps of DC and AC current. I have enough reference material on that

 

not for you. you seem to know what your talking about

 

About how much wire will I need if I do this myself