need a new clutch-which one to get??
#1
need a new clutch-which one to get??
heard lots of good things about the 5th gen clutch on the fourth gen but what do you guys have to say. what parts would i need for the 5th gen set up to work on my 95 max. anyone with the part numbers please let me know ive got to get these parts before the end of the week. thanks
#4
are these the only parts that i need for this set up to work ar is there something missing
Part - Part Number - Price
5th Gen Clutch - 301002Y904 - 75.55
5th Gen Pressure Plate - 3021089F00 - 82.06
Clutch Release Bearing - 3050241U20 - 24.50
Part - Part Number - Price
5th Gen Clutch - 301002Y904 - 75.55
5th Gen Pressure Plate - 3021089F00 - 82.06
Clutch Release Bearing - 3050241U20 - 24.50
#8
i just called a dealer in Cerritos, CA and they want
$113 for the clutch
$122 for the pressure plate
$42 for the clutch realease bearing
freakin crazy prices compared to the ones above. where can i get these parts for those prices
$113 for the clutch
$122 for the pressure plate
$42 for the clutch realease bearing
freakin crazy prices compared to the ones above. where can i get these parts for those prices
#13
I'm actually tackling the install this weekend. Hopefully everything goes okay and I dont run into any problems. But from those here who already have it say its an easy install, but very time consuming.
Mine was about 200 bucks even.
Mine was about 200 bucks even.
#15
i am going to replace my clutch within the next couple of weeks also.
magneto--let me know how it goes and what to watch out for. maybe i can learn from your mistakes, if any, or you can suggest some tips.
do you need to remove the drive axels and totally remove the tranny?
someone gave me this write up, but he was replacing a bearing in his trans too.
are you using a book/guide or write up to help, or do you already know what you are doing?
magneto--let me know how it goes and what to watch out for. maybe i can learn from your mistakes, if any, or you can suggest some tips.
do you need to remove the drive axels and totally remove the tranny?
someone gave me this write up, but he was replacing a bearing in his trans too.
are you using a book/guide or write up to help, or do you already know what you are doing?
#16
both axles have to come out, intake and everything attached to it, starter, battery, along with loosening the lower bracket holding the engine in place. Its a lot easier to get the tranny back it with the motor in a angle. Make sure you use a jack to hold the engine. Place a piece of wood on top of the jack so its doesn't scratch or bend any thing. Place the jack under the oil pan for support.
#17
it's a little more time consuming, but will make the job easier in the long run when you're putting the transmission back in. is not to remove the cross member brace, you'll next about a 2-3ft extention and some low profile wrenches. can't remember the exact size but i believe there's 2 14mm bolts holding the shifter linkage to the transmission, that you're going to need a low profile wrench for. and then the extention is for a 17mm bolt attach to the transmission casing that you need to remove from the passenger side (where the c/v axle connected to the transmission). if you can get those without removing the cross member i will make the installation a whole lot easier, you wouldn't have to worry about supporting the motor.
also make sure you put a lil grease on the 2 dowel pins on the transmission helps with sliding the transmission back on. i also put some grease on the shaft that the throw bearing slides on too.
the only other thing i can think of you doing is replacing your rear main seal while you're in there cost about $30 from nissan, just behind your flywheel.
i just got done putting a 5gen clutch setup in my max 2 weeks ago and what a difference for the 4th setup. my rear main was leaking so i replaced that too while i was in there and replaced the clutch slave cylinder hose since it was leaking ( you can kinda tell that if you have to fill it up every week or so)
also make sure you put a lil grease on the 2 dowel pins on the transmission helps with sliding the transmission back on. i also put some grease on the shaft that the throw bearing slides on too.
the only other thing i can think of you doing is replacing your rear main seal while you're in there cost about $30 from nissan, just behind your flywheel.
i just got done putting a 5gen clutch setup in my max 2 weeks ago and what a difference for the 4th setup. my rear main was leaking so i replaced that too while i was in there and replaced the clutch slave cylinder hose since it was leaking ( you can kinda tell that if you have to fill it up every week or so)
#18
they make a 2-3ft extension? or did you just put a couple of extensions together?
i was thinking about the rear main seal too. is there any other seal that might as well be changed while i'm in there?
also, is there anything in the clutch or transmission that i will need to adjust? or is everything just bolt-up and torque-down?
thanks for the suggestions. i will try to leave the cross member in.
i was thinking about the rear main seal too. is there any other seal that might as well be changed while i'm in there?
also, is there anything in the clutch or transmission that i will need to adjust? or is everything just bolt-up and torque-down?
thanks for the suggestions. i will try to leave the cross member in.
#19
they do but it's really expensive, putting a few of them together should work fine.
the rear main seal is pretty much the only seal around there.
one thing you might want to do is get a few sandwich bag and label each one so you know which bolts go where, gets a lil confusing. have a cheater bar ready, some of the transmission bolts are tight.
be very patience with the rear main seal, make sure you have some black silicone, you will have to you the rubber piece under the rear main seal over again. that's what you'll use the silicone for.
and lastly get a marker to mark where the flywheel was before you take it off, so you'll know exactly where to line it back up.
the rear main seal is pretty much the only seal around there.
one thing you might want to do is get a few sandwich bag and label each one so you know which bolts go where, gets a lil confusing. have a cheater bar ready, some of the transmission bolts are tight.
be very patience with the rear main seal, make sure you have some black silicone, you will have to you the rubber piece under the rear main seal over again. that's what you'll use the silicone for.
and lastly get a marker to mark where the flywheel was before you take it off, so you'll know exactly where to line it back up.
#20
Originally Posted by maxim82
i got the prices that i was looking for at infinity of scottsdale. the whole set up is $197.11 including S&H
i want to purchase everything you did. who did you talk to?
#24
Originally Posted by MAXTIZZLE
magneto--let me know how it goes and what to watch out for. maybe i can learn from your mistakes, if any, or you can suggest some tips.