I just wanted to let everyone know, i just droped of my factory flywheel to my local machine shop. my machinest thinks he can pull off at least 5-7 pounds with no problem. And the charge should be less then $200. The Main reason i wanted to lighten the factory flywheel is, i don't want the problems and isues that come with the aluminum ones. let me know what you guys think

 

And what problems would that be?

 

I personally think it's not really worth it. I've already done this with my 3-gen VE unit once. They were only able to safely take out about 3lbs. And it was from the outer portion of the unit. Once installed, I couldn't feel any diff. I just tried it as it was out anyway. Here's a pic from the back. If you are willing to spend $200, then just spend another $150 and get one that's actually lighter like a fidanza. I noticed a difference with this unit. Even if he could take out 5lbs. That's only about 1/2 the difference. The Fidanza is about 10-12 lbs lighter than stock

 

it depends for what reason you want it lighter, i think i am going to get more then 5 pounds removed. my machinest is going to seperat the friction surface from the starter gear behind it and mill out even more materal from the back side of the friction surface. I have had 2 friends fidanza's that have had problems with there idle, and one even spun a crank bearing over time because the flywheel was balanced poorly. i think i am going to be happy with this decision

 

Your living your life in fear. I have not had a single problem with mine. Perhaps their problem was in the install. I installed mine myself so I know it was done right.

 

If you noticed, that is exactly what I did to mine. And 3lbs was all he was able to take out. You can't touch the friction surface or the part that bolts to the engine. (for dimensional reasons) So that really just leaves the part I had removed. Even at 5 lbs, it's not worth it nor will you feel it.

I have not heard even one of the problems you mentioned for the fidanza here. If the unit was that out of balance to ruin a bearing, it was probably shaking the engine pretty bad. And how do you know it wasn't the heavy pressure plate/clutch disk that didn't throw the assembly out of balance (if that was even the cause anyway)?

 

I think it is well know that aftermarket manufactures to hold tolerances at tight as the factory, you take a chance running aftermarket parts like flywheels, crank pullys, and other engine parts. alot of these parts are made very cheap, and can do serious damage to your engine if they are not corect. I am sorry if i am the only person that takes that in to consideration when working on my car. I am not sure exactly how this flywheel will turn out, but i will be sure to let everyone know.

 

I think you are contradicting yourself here. How do you know your machinst's tolerances are any better than oem or any aftermarket maker? You don't. You can read about them here. I'm going to say 6061 T6 Billet aluminum and CNC machines are probably a TAD more precise that what Nissan OEM uses.
http://www.fidanza.com/productdetail...inum_flywheels

 

thats right take the word of the sales letter as gold, and when ever you mate two different types of metals together you almost always have isues. they both have different heat expantion rates, which over time can seize bolts or worse, lossen or break the bolts that hold the friction surface to the flywheel. I am not knocking you for owning one, i just don't want one myself. just sound like a bad idea to me. and the flywheel is why to important to screw up. and it's not a job i want to do twice.

 

The ONLY thing I mentioned was the material and the method of machining. I take it you think they are lying about that? I'm sorry if you don't think the Fidanza is not a quality piece because it features both aluminum and steel.
But I guess you also think the VQ30 and all VQ series engines are not a good ideas either? Because these engines feature aluminum blocks and steel piston liners. ie.. two different metals mated together. Ooops

 

wow i guess you have it all figured out man, your not even worth talking to. sorry your right the way you did it is the only good way to make power i did not realize that i was talking to the guy that designed the maxima. you can post all you want, but as far as i am concerned your not worth talking to.

 

If you can please just explain your reasoning futher based on the facts I've presented, we can continue our discussion. I clearly have NOT figured out "everything" as I'm still trying to understand your "two different materials" reasoning.

I didn't design the maxima. But I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night

 

Nissan gave you that flywheel and you're going to change it??!?

How disrespectful.

 

Alright, I was only saying that aluminum and steel expand at different rate by nature, this will, in time, cause the steel plate to become loose after year of expanding and contracting againts a different type of metal. this Is well known to engine builders, any one that has ever build a engine with a steal block and a aluminum head. This combination often will destroy head gaskets due to the same principle. Is is just one of the ideas that make me unsure of the fidanza flywheel. Also i don't want a flywheel as light as the fidanza. I would like to keep some of the moveing weight to save some power for lower in the rpm curve. these are the reasons i am doing it this way.

 

Hmm odd. All the newer VQ series engines feature steel liners inside an aluminum block. How come these liners have not worked loose and caused engine failure? The older VG30 and VE30 maxima engines feature iron blocks and aluminum heads. As does many thousands of different engines. Many of the Datsun/Nissan engines have gone 100,000, 200,000, 300,000+ miles with absolutely no problems.

I think you need to re-examine your reasoning.

If now you are concerned about weight. Don't worry. The findanza is not light enough to cause any drivability problems.

 

I know that aluminum head on iron blocks have been around for a long time. and can you imagine the amount of engineering time when in to manufactureing the thoughs engines. This is the main reason for headgasket falure in modern cars. thats not to say that a headgasket can't last forever. but in most cases when they go, they wear out for this reason.

 

Umm headgaskets on iron block/iron head engines don't last forever either. And I'll say they don't last any longer than headgaskets on an iron block/alumin head engine.

 

I can tell you that a engine with a iron head and block, will almost never blow a headgasket, that is if it was equiped with a modern headgasket.

 

Well then please explain how come the VQ series engines last so long?? Iron sleeves/aluminum block. Two diff materials.

 

Im sure fidanza just farted out a fly wheel for our cars. Dont you think they took some time to research what they are doing? Im going to go out on a limb here, but if you design a bad product and put it out to market and it damages a lot of people's property I bet they are going to sue. Im sure Fidanza took this into consideration.

 

You would think so, but i can't count how many times i have had all types of aftermarket parts break on me where there factory equivilents did'nt. I am sure that Cars parts are designed alot better from the factory, then from the aftermarket.

 

thats a very broad and uneducated statement. lets take for instance a wilwood brake caliper. im sure its manufactured much better than the oem caliper.

 

Thats just bullsh!t right there.

 

Maybe you are just buying cheap ebay bullsh!t... who knows, in some instances you are correct. Either way, the Fidanza does not fall into that category.

If you want to be a pu$$y and waste your $200 then fine, just don't knock things when you have not even had any experience with them.

 

.........................

 

Is it just me or does anyone else find it funny that he does not trust aftermarket manufacters to build something better than the OEM, but he is letting a machinist determine what the appropriate amount of material to remove is and where to take it from?

 

I find it extremely funny. And that ignores the fact that his own engine is steel/aluminum. It's going to blow anyday now

Yes, let the machinst take as much weight as possible out of it. Hopefully the flywheel turning at 7,000 rpm won't shatter and give him a free sex change.

 

Well maybe the machinist has houndreds of hours of maxima experiance and is the Maxima flywheel specialist so he can know exactly how to get it as light as possible and so it is of equal quality to the oem unit.

 

maybe

 

I am sorry for being the only person that does not like to blindly trust the parts i put on my car, at least this way i can see the balace chart and know hands down what i am getting. it is great to hear that most people have better luck with the aftermarket manufactures that i have.

I don't think i have ever purchased any part from one of those e-bay wholesalers. but i have had lots of well rated aftermarket brands (holly, MSD, centerforce.... just to name a few) wipe out for no reason. i am not knocking any brand. I like to find ways around the aftermarket when i can. and when i do buy aftermarket i have my machinist check it first. I agree i might be way to **** but i take alot of pride in what i build.

 

Can you get back to explaining the VQ engine thing again? We are straying off track again. Thanks

 

The point of the thread is not the use of different metals in engines, i am sorry you don't understand what i was trying to explane about that point. But it does seem that no one thinks what i am doing is a good idea, but i have not seen one person have a good reason why?

 

Can you please stop avoiding the question? You stated that using diff material together is a very, very bad idea. BUT at the same time, your engine is made up of just that. Explain why it's okay for your engine but not a flywheel?

I gave you numerous reasons why it's not worth it. But go ahead and do it.

 

Using multiple types of metals is a bad idea when used in such a hostile environment such as an engine, I agree entirely

BUT

Engineerings have put years and years into development and research to prevent the very same problems we're concerned about. And my Maxima, personally, has over 200k miles on it. So I believe it is safe to assume that they did an adequate job of it..

 

I will be getting this done thing spring when I install the 4.47:1 final drive. 4-5 pounds should be enough. I don't want the Fidanza -- too light and Tilley has burnt two with a similar clutch and the VQ35 in his 4th gen. Plus 1st gear is jerky enough as it is. But lightening the OEM flywheel while installing a lower FD is a good idea (heavy flywheel eats up much of the energy needed to get the gains of the lower FD).

 

Waste your 200 then come race me and tell me if your 200 was worth it.

So i guess spraying nitrous and fuel mixed is bad too and i shouldn't trust it becasue im going to F up my motor huh.. Your reasoning compared to jeff's seems very unedumakated and i think your funny. Here you are talking to someone who has done this and your still trying to tell them its a GRAND idea, wow.

 

I am not avoiding your question, and i never said "it was a very bad idea" I said it can cause problems. Like i said earlyer it's not my falt you don't understand the idea. but at least There are others that understand.

 

[QUOTE][/ Waste your 200 then come race me and tell me if your 200 was worth it.QUOTE]
Next time your in PA, hit me up. Then i will show you what it was worth.

 

Ive seen some pretty good reasons why.

1) Jeff did it and it gave little gains.
2) Who is your machinist? How many flywheels has he lightened (specifically for a Maxima)?
3) Fidanza most likely did their research before just cutting away and making a lighter flywheel.
4) Not all aftermaket parts are junk. In fact I bet some of the bigger aftermarket companies actualy produce OEM materials. They just dont stamp their name one it. The end customer's name goes on it. This is a very common practice.
5) Different metals used in a engine has been around for a long time. Lots of VQ's with over 200k miles.

 

Good luck on this project, seems like it may turn fruitless. Be sure to post back your results.