rays95max

my rear main seal is leaking, is it a major problem

SVI30

One of the hardest thing to replace. Let it leak if it is not too serious.

rays95max

what is to serious

SVI30

1Qt a week.

Vlasic

iTrader: (13)

Its not hard...just time consuming.

If oil is actually dripping then you should get it fixed asap, but if its just a small build up on the bottom of your engine/tranny, dont worry about it.

vettefever5

it depends on what your skill level is. i didn't think it was that hard, it was just very involved. there's a lot of stuff to take off and keep track of, but its not that bad... as long as you dont run into the problem of the car not starting when you're done (like myself and many other people on here)... then you just have to run a few extra ground wires from the trans/starter to the battery.

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

Its about 400 - 500 to fix. I would suggest getting it done asap.

Tim96I30t

iTrader: (2)

Just keep track of oil level, if it is leaking alot fix it, if the oil level stays fine it is just weeping out small trace amounts and is nothing to worry about. I would say if you really want to keep you car, get a low mileage VQ for 200-500 and get it installed for 400-600. Might cost a few hundred more but your not spending 600-700 on fixing a high mileage engine that may have other problems alot sooner than a new low mileage one. Good luck

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

if you want to get an idea of what all is involved in changing it then just look at your repair manual to see how to replace the flywheel. Its behind that. Once you get the flywheel out its held in by a few bolts, and then its wedged in. Its part of your upper oil pan seal.

StillenIsaJoke

iTrader: (1)

someone want to get paid to help me change mine?

Vlasic

iTrader: (13)

PM Turbo95Max, he just opened a shop in San Bruno, he does great work.

StillenIsaJoke

iTrader: (1)

I just got my car back from him yesterday (wheels/tires/wheel bearing) Mathel has been working on my car for like 5 years, great guy. I can't afford to have him do the rear main seal there is just too much labor time involved.

Vlasic

iTrader: (13)

hahaha, oh ****, you picked up that black maxima with the black rims on the alignment rack right?

i was that white guy working on the beige 4th gen. hahahah

colinchan167

Does those stop oil leaks additives help to stop oil leaks in the rear main seal? Because my 95 Maxima has the same problem but the oil level stays the same every time I check (twice or once a month)

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

It won't stop the rear main from leaking.

colinchan167

but how come my oil level stay the same?

Tim96I30t

iTrader: (2)

Because the leak isn't that bad yet, over time it will get worse. Just keep an eye on it and check for oil spots/level.

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

Most RMS leaks start out small. I would just keep an eye on it and add oil if that is the case. I would only change the RMS if you have to change the clutch--then really, it is usually a $35 dollar part and an extra hour of labor. 1 qt every 3000 miles is reasonable--some older cars consume that much even with a good RMS. There is no harm letting it leak--it could foul your clutch but so what, when the clutch goes, change both at that time. It is also hard to foul the clutch given that the flywheel acts as a sort of barrier. Lastly, the RMS install is easy but also not hard to botch. Quite a few have replaced it, replaced the clutch, reinstalled the tranny, only to find that the new seal leaks like a b!tch--when you do replace it, make sure that the seal is sitting flush with the crank all the way around with a paper clip or something.

Vlasic

iTrader: (13)

replacing the RMS is not a 1 hour job after a clutch job, its listed as another 3 hours after the tranny is down.

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

I did it in about 30 minutes (excluding time for the sealant to cure).

Breakdown: remove flywheel (<5 min), remove RMS bracket and clean old residue (15 min), apply sealant and install RMS bracket (5 min), allow sealant to cure, replace flywheel (<5 min).

nismology

iTrader: (8)

That happens because most people don't think to replace this gasket.


So it's not the actual new rear main that's leaking.

Vlasic

iTrader: (13)

so you did it without dropping the upper oil pan? My friend and I tried that once and we saw no way of making the new RMS fit without damaging it.

If you atempt to replace the RMS without dropping the oil pan then yes, its a quck job after removing the clutch, but if you go the way of the service manual, it will take about 3 more hours to drop the oil pan, and then you gotta put it back up with a TON of silicon.

StillenIsaJoke

iTrader: (1)

Oh right on, yeah I remember seeing you, I'm sure I'll see you again probably when I get that RMS done at some point and time.

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

I am not sure why you have to drop the oil pan. The RMS bracket will go on just like you removed it.

Nismology, you are probably right about that gasket. The RMS can also tear once the car is started if the seal is not sitting flush with the crank...happened to me.

Stabone

iTrader: (8)

I missed that gasket the first go around, so I get to redo it this week... so I will be dropping the motor and doing the tensioner and water pump while I'm at it. I can't wait!

nismology

iTrader: (8)

To be clear you also need to replace the gasket on the other side of the motor (part code 11121) and the two o-rings (part code 11012G).

sky jumper

ok - so how do you spot a RMS leak? I switched to syntec 0W30 3kmi ago and now I'm seeing some moisture collecting on the bottom of my AT case, close to where the engine attaches, at a spot where there's a thin vertical metal plate attached to the AT case. there's also a little slot in bottom of the AT case at this point. I think the leakage is motor oil, not ATF, but it's not dripping yet. RMS??

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

First I would switch back to 5w30 and consider even 10 in the summer. It may make a difference and allow the car to stop perpiring.

colinchan167

ok...

If the rear main seal leaks, where i can find the leaks? it supposes leaks on the driver side or passenger side? Because I found the leaks above the oil pan and around the rear header.